Make sure that it is tight-grained hard rock maple. By tight-grained, I mean that it has at least 21 rings per inch -- the cuemaker will know what this means. If you can't get this, DO NOT SETTLE for anything less than well-aged and 18 rings per inch.
Additionally, the extra inch or two of length will add an unexpected amount of flex ("whip," for lack of a better description). If you are used to a 16" pro taper, have your cuemaker make it a 14" taper -- if you have liked a 14" taper, bring this down to 12". Your cuemaker will know what taper you currently have by examining your cue shaft. I would also say that, if you already have a taper shorter than 13", you can use about the same taper as you already have.
And finally, have your cuemaker cut your new ferrule to 5/8" length, instead of the currently universally popular 1". This is the EASY way to cut down on "end mass" as an aid against deflection. Additionally, the shorter tenon length will, just like pitched tuning forks, "vibrate" faster than the longer tenon, therefore assuring the necessary anti-deflectionary "quick recovery."
Both of these principles are what Predator considered when designing their high-tech ferrules to cut down on deflection. If you like a tip diameter of 12mm or less, then have the ferrule length cut to 9/16" -- stability is KING, here, and I have found, through personal experience, that this ferrule length adjustment according to tip diameter has a great deal of merit.
I have tried all this out at length, including shooting with Predator shafts/ferrules and the special Meucci shafts/ferrules over extended periods of time. The layout I described above has at least as low deflection as all of the specialty equipment, costs far less, and is easier to make/modify.
