Cue question
- Thread starter champ2107
- Start date
That's a hard one to answer due to the variations in Pin type, ferrule material, Joint configuration and even the tip.
Then you get into wood , Cocobolo, Maple, and many others.
Maybe some of the McDermott guys can help out here since they make production cues and customs.
Welcome to A-Z.
Then you get into wood , Cocobolo, Maple, and many others.
Maybe some of the McDermott guys can help out here since they make production cues and customs.
Welcome to A-Z.
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Going to need more info than that. 
For $600 , you can pick up a pretty nice production cue or even a pretty good 'builders' cue used.
$150 could either be a gem in the rough or far from it. Mostly like it'll be at the lower end of the scale regardless in terms of materials, fit and finish , tip quality and/or construction.
For $600 , you can pick up a pretty nice production cue or even a pretty good 'builders' cue used. $150 could either be a gem in the rough or far from it. Mostly like it'll be at the lower end of the scale regardless in terms of materials, fit and finish , tip quality and/or construction.
Depends what makes it $600 vs. $150, if it's because of a $450 ruby set in the butt or some rare leather wrap they'll play the same, if it's because of an old growth shaft or different wood in the forearm they'll likely play different.
On the McDermott's I've played with the $150-$500 range, and I gotta say they've all played beautifully, but there really does seem to be something slightly nicer about the $350-$500 range cues... but I'm not good enough to quantify that and it could all be in my head.
On the McDermott's I've played with the $150-$500 range, and I gotta say they've all played beautifully, but there really does seem to be something slightly nicer about the $350-$500 range cues... but I'm not good enough to quantify that and it could all be in my head.
Put your money into the shaft, joint and tip. The wood and cosmetics look nice but won't make the cue play better.
skiflyer said:
I second this. There will be a difference as questioned, but the change occurs more around $300.
In my opinion $300 is what you should pay for your cue when you are serious about learning the game. (this should be the 2nd cue, following the $50-$150 "first trying the game" cue)
$300+ cues can last a lifetime if you take care of them.
i agree $150 is to low, and even with the same manufactor there will be cheap parts, materials etc used in the construction, so would a $300 or a $600 cue play the same? probably. But a $150 cue,? i doubt it would.
i agree the entry level cue is $300 and shaft/tip is the most important thing to focus on, $150 aind gonna do it if your serious about playing good, if its social then $150 is too much.
i agree the entry level cue is $300 and shaft/tip is the most important thing to focus on, $150 aind gonna do it if your serious about playing good, if its social then $150 is too much.
There is no general rule as far as this is concerned. It changes from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some cues have different construction (ie: one piece butt construction vs. three piece butt construction) and other manufacturers use exactly the same construction regardless of price. Inlays do not improve the playability of a cue, though they certainly affect the price. As a general rule; however, a cue maker will choose a higher grade of shaft wood for a $600 cue vs. a $150 cue.
If you have specific questions about two cues, I'll be happy to look into the details for you.
I hope this helps.
If you have specific questions about two cues, I'll be happy to look into the details for you.
I hope this helps.
champ2107 said:
Yes and no. There are a few ways to make a production cue more expensive. Inlays can make a cue more expensive, but it will not make a cue better. It can ruin the cues balance and make it even worser. On the other hand, a cue with more technology can make a cue better. Talking about low deflection and more consistency. But like other said, put your money on the shaft. A few manufacturers delivers a better shaft, when you pay $600 for a cue. And only give a standard shaft, when you pay $150.
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Depends what that $150 is spent on. Viking, McDermott, and Joss are all good cues and if you look you can find any of the 3 in that range. Now, by some off brand for $150, and it won't be the quality. Most bang for the buck in "production", cheapest Schon that you can find. There have been some going for around $300 on here lately. Otherwise, buy something cheap and upgrade the shaft, Predator or custom if you're not into the low deflection thing.
If a good cuemaker starts with a full splice Schmelke blank, adds a premium shaft with a joint that hits the way YOU like, and the same for the choice of ferrule and tip, then you will have a cue that plays as good as it gets. AS GOOD AS IT GETS ! The cuemaker has to control the balance and the feel with all the different skills that he can use to affect those slight differences, as he does with the weight. The taper of the shaft is a HUGE factor for me, and that is completely determined by the maker. Likewise the thickness of the butt.
I have a sneaky right now from Darrin Hill that plays for me as well as any cue that I've ever touched. I got it for $350 and it was worth every penny to me. I think you have a better chance if you already know that the cuemaker produces cues that play great for you, regardless of cost...Tom
I have a sneaky right now from Darrin Hill that plays for me as well as any cue that I've ever touched. I got it for $350 and it was worth every penny to me. I think you have a better chance if you already know that the cuemaker produces cues that play great for you, regardless of cost...Tom