Cue sealing before spraying

money8ball

money8ball

Registered
Sprayed my first build with auto clear and it came out with white specs, haze, bubble looking in the clear. Can anyone tell me what it could be and what i did wrong. What is all the experienced cue makers using to seal the cue before spraying the auto clear?

Should i try another method of clear?

Help please.....
 
2 coats of BSI Finish Cure epoxy first .
Auto clears are not designed to go on wood . They are designed to go on base coat.
 
You need a basecoat of epoxy first. B.S.I finish cure as Joey mentioned works really well. It does take 24 hours to cure fully though.
 
You can still get those solvent pop tiny white bubbles if you spray too thick, even with a good seal coat. I use five minute Devcon epoxy for a seal coat.
 
money8ball said:
Sprayed my first build with auto clear and it came out with white specs, haze, bubble looking in the clear. Can anyone tell me what it could be and what i did wrong. What is all the experienced cue makers using to seal the cue before spraying the auto clear?

Should i try another method of clear?

Help please.....
Click to expand...

Automotive clear coat works great oncues…
But make sure you use a good quality- wax and grease remover FIRST
This important,
No matter what you are going to use as a finish on a cue-
As any contaminates will certainly cause a finish to flake or peel.
Spraying auto clear requires patience and not too many coats either-
Use fast hardener and usually 10- 15 minutes between coats-
usually 3- 4 light to medium coats.
And-
with the auto clear-
You are going to have to repeat the process at least 2 times-
sometime more than that-because the clear will dry and sink into the wood-
"like stated in other posts-
auto finish is meant for cars - to be sprayed over base coat-
But I have sprayed a few hundred cues with auto clear, and every one turned out great!
 
money8ball said:
Sprayed my first build with auto clear and it came out with white specs, haze, bubble looking in the clear. Can anyone tell me what it could be and what i did wrong. What is all the experienced cue makers using to seal the cue before spraying the auto clear?

Should i try another method of clear?

Help please.....
Click to expand...

Many times it's not what we did wrong....it's what we didn't do right.
It may very well have nothing to do with how or what you sealed with. It can be a little tricky but in certain instances I have shot clear directly on to wood with no problems.
In order to figure out what has caused your "problem" you'll have to start at the very beginning of your system.

source of air.....
line pressure...
line filters....
line desiccant....
gun used.....
material used....
humidity at the time of spraying....
This is just a short list of items that may need to be addressed in an attempt to lay out the perfect clear coat on a project.

Anyone of these or a number of others could be the source of contaminants and reason for what you are describing.

Only then can you start looking at the project and how or why you used certain sealing methods in your attempt to lay down a flat, water clear jacket of protection that will last for many years to come.

Or, it may very well just be the operator has messed up and not sprayed according to spec.....example, laid the material on too thick or too fast between coatings.

The art of spraying a quality clear coat is a science within itself. Then....just when you think you have it all figured out, it'll smack up you upside the your noggin and having you asking yourself. WTF happened this time?
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Many times it's not what we did wrong....it's what we didn't do right.
It may very well have nothing to do with how or what you sealed with. It can be a little tricky but in certain instances I have shot clear directly on to wood with no problems.
In order to figure out what has caused your "problem" you'll have to start at the very beginning of your system.

source of air.....
line pressure...
line filters....
line desiccant....
gun used.....
material used....
humidity at the time of spraying....
This is just a short list of items that may need to be addressed in an attempt to lay out the perfect clear coat on a project.

Anyone of these or a number of others could be the source of contaminants and reason for what you are describing.

Only then can you start looking at the project and how or why you used certain sealing methods in your attempt to lay down a flat, water clear jacket of protection that will last for many years to come.

Or, it may very well just be the operator has messed up and not sprayed according to spec.....example, laid the material on too thick or too fast between coatings.

The art of spraying a quality clear coat is a science within itself. Then....just when you think you have it all figured out, it'll smack up you upside the your noggin and having you asking yourself. WTF happened this time?
Click to expand...
I thought you were wealthy enough to use Axon insulator.
$700 per gallon every 6 months. :eek:
 
JoeyInCali said:
My bad. Send me a quart of that magic sealer .
Click to expand...

Not sure where you got or heard the idea I use that stuff?
Some have told that it seems to work OK but I understand most that are using it are spraying UV as a top coat.
5 gal buckets will set you back a few. I don't believe it comes in anything smaller unless they've changed up at the manufacturer.
 
cueman said:
You can still get those solvent pop tiny white bubbles if you spray too thick, even with a good seal coat. I use five minute Devcon epoxy for a seal coat.
Click to expand...
Why, when the cue coat penetrates better, flows better and does not yellow ?
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Not sure where you got or heard the idea I use that stuff?
Some have told that it seems to work OK but I understand most that are using it are spraying UV as a top coat.
5 gal buckets will set you back a few. I don't believe it comes in anything smaller unless they've changed up at the manufacturer.
Click to expand...

$700 for a gallon of A and B after hazmat fee.
Xnay!
 
JoeyInCali said:
Why, when the cue coat penetrates better, flows better and does not yellow ?
Click to expand...

Working cure, 45 minutes to and hour. Full cure 16 hours.
Surface bond only, ZERO PENETRATION.
Not for me, not for you. But some like it. It is what it is.
 
Last edited:
Deruki said:
What product do you recommend for sealing?
Click to expand...


I am and have been for years. A student of West System. The only exception is the G5. If you read it, you'll understand why. But I DO NOT CONDEMN the people who choose to use it.
 
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