Cue: wood and balance

C

cramh

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Getting no response on the Products talk cue forum, I think that the reason lies in the fact that my questions are general.

Looking for a longer cue, I wrote, as suggested by someone on this forum, to someone from Schmelke.

They propose a real (REAL!) custom cue, since one can choose many many options.

Two questions:

First question: One of the options is the type of wood. They say:
'We could make this style cue butt in various woods in sneaky pete style cues, bocote rosewood, shedua, cocobola , ebony, in various cues with linen wraps, or cues featuring a 3rd exotic wood for a wrap.'

Is there a better wood than another? What are the differences between those different woods? Is it just a question of personnal preference?


Second question: Do you think there is an optimal point of balance of a butt. I have two butts. The balance of the first one is situated here (difficult to put a correct drawing, sorry):

+++++++39cm (15.5")+++++++33cm (13")
===================/============> Shaft side

and the balance of the other cue is situated here:

+++33cm (13")+++++++39cm (15.5")++++
=============//===================> Shaft side

I much more prefer the more forwarded balance of the first cue. Is it just personal preference or are there objective criterions?


Thanks,
Marc
 
I'd say it's all subjective. Since your arm is doing the stroking of the cue, it's about how the cue feels in your hands.
 
personally i dont think you would tell the difference in the cues because of which wood was used
you would tell a difference by the weight and balance point
find the weight and balance you like and grip size if an option
and get the wood that looks the nicest to you
jmho
 
bbb said:
personally i dont think you would tell the difference in the cues because of which wood was used
you would tell a difference by the weight and balance point
find the weight and balance you like and grip size if an option
and get the wood that looks the nicest to you
jmho
Click to expand...

Above is probably the best advice, but I'm going to offer you the Long & Winding Road: www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/table_of_wood_weight.pdf
 is a link to download a table of wood weights. Most of them are common, domestic woods but there is an "Imported" section that lists some cue woods. Using the 15% moisture content column, popular cue woods weigh in at:

Maple, hard sugar 3.609
Maple, hard black 3.338
Cocobolo 5.507
Ebony, African 5.444
Rosewood, Brazilian 4.988
Purpleheart 4.209

The heaviest wood listed is an import called Ipe at 5.881. The heaviest domestic is White Oak at 5.155

Okay, now you're on your own. :D
 
Personal choice

I have 2 Pat Diviney wrap-less cues, one is made from coco and the other gabon ebony, they look different but feel similar to me. My next cue from him will be another simple full splice cue made from boycote. I doubt it will feel any different to me as it will be built to the same specs as the other cues he made for me. Just decide on the wood you want and your skill will prove it is a good wood for a cue.
 
To a large first order the maker can use any kind of wood and achieve the same balance and weight. While woods vary in density and strength, the strength of the butt is in the core (maple) while the color of the butt is in the last 1mm (or so) near the surface.

The maker can lighten the butt of the cue by machining out some of the wood in the middle of the Butt, or adding weight (lead tungsten) at either the back (nose light) or front (nose heavy), both, or all three.

One can make the cue nose heavy by using a metal-to-metal joint.

One can make a cue nose light by using a wood-to-wood joint and a light pin.
 
When I read comments about cue balance, everybody seems to be talking about the static balance of the cue, as in "where is the balance point". Do any cue makers concern themselves with the dynamic balance of the cue? In other words, how does the cue feel in motion. I would think that different densities of wood could affect the dynamic balance without changing the static balance at all.
 
Extension

cramh said:
Getting no response on the Products talk cue forum, I think that the reason lies in the fact that my questions are general.

Looking for a longer cue, I wrote, as suggested by someone on this forum, to someone from Schmelke.

They propose a real (REAL!) custom cue, since one can choose many many options.

Two questions:

First question: One of the options is the type of wood. They say:
'We could make this style cue butt in various woods in sneaky pete style cues, bocote rosewood, shedua, cocobola , ebony, in various cues with linen wraps, or cues featuring a 3rd exotic wood for a wrap.'

Is there a better wood than another? What are the differences between those different woods? Is it just a question of personnal preference?


Second question: Do you think there is an optimal point of balance of a butt. I have two butts. The balance of the first one is situated here (difficult to put a correct drawing, sorry):

+++++++39cm (15.5")+++++++33cm (13")
===================/============> Shaft side

and the balance of the other cue is situated here:

+++33cm (13")+++++++39cm (15.5")++++
=============//===================> Shaft side

I much more prefer the more forwarded balance of the first cue. Is it just personal preference or are there objective criterions?


Thanks,
Marc
Click to expand...

Try one of the extensions that fit between the shaft and butt. I use one that is 2 1/2 " long and weighs 1oz. Made of ebony it adds length and forward balance to your existing cue with a minimum of weight added.

I got mine from newsherrifintown on here for $50. Best results for the least $ I ever spent on a cue. You can get them longer (balance rite) or shorter but I would try one on your existing cue before buying a new cue.
 
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