cueman Air Cooled Coring Drills

Adonisy

Adonisy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I receive Cue Smith E-letter Messag:

We now have our Air Cooled Coring Drills in stock. They can core a 14" forearm or handle in one pass. Unlike many others these already have 1/2" shank with side air. We include the quick connect air nozzle. These blow the chips back out, keeping it cooland clog free.
We have two sizes.

I am very insterest,can Chris post some picture to us?:D
 
sounds nice,i think the other guys bits have a 5/8" shank with air going into the bit.

what are the prices?
 
14" Coring depths.
.650" Diameter $150
.775" Diameter $165
I made the diameters .025" over 5/8" and 3/4" so you will never have a problem gluing 5/8" or 3/4" rings on.

If you have my Advanced Cue Building Volume 2 DVD you can see one in action there. I have 11 each of the these for sale and then won't have any more for a few weeks. It is first come first serve on these.
 
Last edited:
Chris is a great guy to deal with and this is a bargain, I wish he had them when I custom ordered mine and waited 6 weeks to get them ground to simular specs
 
I ordered one form sterling gun grills .755 1/2inch side air 22 inch overall length which gives me an 18 inch overall cut depth for $150 shipped to my door. The .755 drill size allows me to use a perfect .750 tenon so it is perfect for rings and butt sleeves and even forearms for that matter..
 
I have bought 3 off e-bay, pluged the end where coolent goes in , drilled a hole from the side, an welded a air fitting on the side , and all work perfect . All for less than 30 bucks.
 
Chris. Does It Need Oe Come With Any Type Of Steady Rest To Keep The Bit From Moving. I Dont Know Much About Coring But I Am Limited To Certin Woods Because I Dont Core. Let Me Know I Am Very Interested
 
dave sutton said:
Chris. Does It Need Oe Come With Any Type Of Steady Rest To Keep The Bit From Moving. I Dont Know Much About Coring But I Am Limited To Certin Woods Because I Dont Core. Let Me Know I Am Very Interested
Click to expand...


Why do you need a steady rest?? All you have to do is bore a 1 inch starter hole and you'll be just fine..
 
JBCustomCues said:
Why do you need a steady rest?? All you have to do is bore a 1 inch starter hole and you'll be just fine..
Click to expand...

No steady rest is needed if set up correctly. I have a quick change tool-posts on my lathes And my Gun-drill is mounted into a 1 inch boring bar holder ready to go leveled with the machine. I have a carbide Forstner bit only about an inch and a quarter long so that it won't wander that I make my initial bore. My air valve connects to a brass quick connect on the back of the drill. When aligning to bore, with the tool-post loose so that it can pivot, I just drop the holder onto place on my tool post, insert the cutting edge into the bored hole and align the back to my tail-stock live center and then tighten the holder so that it can no longer pivot. I then connect my air valve and adjust the air flow. This aligns the drill to the bed and insures that the drill will drill straight and true through the material. I use the lathes power feed which leaves a perfect bore every time. I've done this hundreds of times with only one mistake which came about because I tried to bore through a piece of Cocobolo at to fast a rate compared the the RPMs on the lathe.

Dick
 
Even if you are not set up the way you are there is still no need for a steady rest.. I mount my wood in the lathe with a rear chuck and dead center holding the backside of the wood then I just bore my hole 1 inch x .755 because i have a .755 gun drill and use my tail stock to feed the dun grill to my desired depth. Then i remove the wood and cut off the back side with a chop saw. And even doing it this way it takes me less that 2 minutes to core out an 14 inch piece of wood..
 
dave sutton said:
Chris. Does It Need Oe Come With Any Type Of Steady Rest To Keep The Bit From Moving. I Dont Know Much About Coring But I Am Limited To Certin Woods Because I Dont Core. Let Me Know I Am Very Interested
Click to expand...
You don't neeed a steady rest. You just use your boring bar to create a starter hole that the nose of the bit sticks into. Then the bit will follow that really straight. These bits are the best way I have seen to do it.
 
i understand the guide hole. looking into some drills they offer a steadt rest and ive also read cuemaker do use them.

chris am i using this in my tail stock or in a tool post?
 
dave sutton said:
i understand the guide hole. looking into some drills they offer a steadt rest and ive also read cuemaker do use them.

chris am i using this in my tail stock or in a tool post?
Click to expand...
It goes into the tailstock. Some build guide bushings for their tailstocks, but I have not found a real need for one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top