Cuesmith Taper and Butt Bars

[Run the Century]

Anybody have any good ideas on how to set these up right? I have had mine for over a year and they still arent set up perfect. I want 1.25 in the back and .85 at the joint. It would be nice if they came that way. Anyhow, any one that has this lathe and has any ideas let me know. Thanks!

Chris

 

[newo9277]

Anybody have any good ideas on how to set these up right? I have had mine for over a year and they still arent set up perfect. I want 1.25 in the back and .85 at the joint. It would be nice if they came that way. Anyhow, any one that has this lathe and has any ideas let me know. Thanks!

Chris

Chris,
I have a deluxe cuesmith lathe. You want 1.25 at the butt and .85 at the joint.
You take 1.25 subtract .85 and get .4 thats the difference between the butt and the joint. Then you divide that in half = .2 because everything you cut off one side also gets cut off the other side. Loosen the bolts that hold the taper bar exept one of the end ones, leave that one snug. using calipers take a measurment from your toolpost to the taper bar at that snug bolt. then move the carriage 29" from that point, (If you are making a 29" butt) Move the taper bar so there is a .2 difference from your last measurment, and lock down the bolt on that end of the taper bar. Check your measurments again then lock down all three bolts.
I hope that i explained it well enough for it to be help full. If not PM me with a phone # and i will walk you through it.

Owen

 

[bob griffin]

Madison Bob

Anybody have any good ideas on how to set these up right? I have had mine for over a year and they still arent set up perfect. I want 1.25 in the back and .85 at the joint. It would be nice if they came that way. Anyhow, any one that has this lathe and has any ideas let me know. Thanks!

Chris

CHRIS HOW ARE YOU ? if your talking about cutting a butt to 1.250 at the butt plate and .850 at the joint on chris hightowers lathe you don,t need the taper bar at all you just offset the tailstock . heres how you do it take 1.250 subtract your joint size from that which is .850 that leaves you with .400 thousands now divide that by 2 because your cutting on one side at a time that gives you .200 thousands this will give you the .850 joint 1.250 butt size you want. chris has a set screw on the side off the tailstock put a dail indacater againest the side of the tailstock and set it to zero now loosen the screw up and pull the tailstock toward yourself counting the numbers on the indacater untill you pull it over .200 thousands from zero and tighten up the screw on the tailstock this will give you the butt size you need. when your done cutting your butt put the indacater back on and set it on zero and loosen the screw and push the tailstock away from you .200 thousands and this will bring you back to zero dead in line with the center of your chuck . its best to put a indactor on there and make a bracket were it can stay in place at all times making this a 1 minute job when your ready to cut buts. now to setup to cut shafts with chris.s taper bar you would have to ask him are some that as one to help you on it i,am not sure how there doing it i,am sure theres a easy way to do it thow. MADISON BOB CUSTOM CUES

PS. IF you use the tailstock instead of the taper bar to cut butts you can setup the taper bar one time just for the taper you want for your shafts that way your not moving it back and forth all the time from shafts to butts.

 

[Jon]

Or, (and this would be the best, most accurate way to do it) use a dial indicator in the tool post and keep adjusting the bar until it reads what you want.

Jon

 

[SpiderWeb]

Taper

Put it where you think it needs to be and use a junk piece fo wood and turn it from end to end. Measure each end until there is a 400 thou difference or move the taper bar or tail stock 1/2 the difference you need. Just keep using junk wood until you get it right.

 

[Michael Webb]

Or, (and this would be the best, most accurate way to do it) use a dial indicator in the tool post and keep adjusting the bar until it reads what you want.

Jon

Tap. Tap, That's a good way to start.

 

[Zagiflyer]

On my deluxe Cuesmith the Butt bar was the easy part, at least it's a straight angle. I just about lost my sanity getting the Shaft bar set up correctly. I'll cry if I ever have to do that again The hard part is trying to find an accurate, repeatable way to measure from the tool carriage to the bars. All I had was my calipers and I messed it up a few times before getting it right. I got the butt bar very close to 1.250/.850. I get about 1.255/.845 and I going to leave it be. Good luck with this. I also found out to be very careful that the bars and bearing wheel are free of any debris, stray glue or anything that will cause the tool to have a "bump" when it runs over that spot. Once these babies ae set up they sure make things a lot faster and easier.