Cuetec cynergy

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Iwishiwasrich

Well-known member
I just got my 11.8 cynergy shaft 3/8 - 10 pin. It won't screw on more than half way and it gets super tight. I remember my revo shaft was pretty tight at first but not this tight. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any and all help I can get.
 
Iwishiwasrich said:
I just got my 11.8 cynergy shaft 3/8 - 10 pin. It won't screw on more than half way and it gets super tight. I remember my revo shaft was pretty tight at first but not this tight. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any and all help I can get.
Click to expand...
they make a regular 3/8x10 and a modified flat-bottm 3/8x10. need to have the right one.
 
It is a Ariel Carmelli cue, 3/8 -10 pin not modified. I put some candle wax on the threads and it is going on farther but gets tight about a half inch from the joint. The revo for my jacoby radial pin was tight as hell at first. After about 5 or 6 times putting it on it was ok. I think I'm just going to keep working off and until it threads on all the way. Still open for suggestions
 
garczar said:
they make a regular 3/8x10 and a modified flat-bottm 3/8x10. need to have the right one.
Click to expand...
You might be right, my pin is flat on the end. I was sure when I bought this cue it was advertised as a 3/8 -10. Never paid much attention to it really. Looking at seyberts at Carmelli cues ,all of them say modified. It's been a couple of years since I bought it and I had it in my head this whole time it was a regular 38-10. Looks like I will be sending this one back. Thanks guys.
 
Rolled threads VS Cut threads VS cast threads.

I had the exact same problem with a Cynergy shaft and G-10 pin in 3/8-10. The profile of the G-10 threads doesn't work with the Cynergy insert. I chose to shorten my pin but that will mean a pretty expensive process and somebody knowing what they are doing if I ever want to change pins.

Hu
 
Iwishiwasrich said:
You might be right, my pin is flat on the end. I was sure when I bought this cue it was advertised as a 3/8 -10. Never paid much attention to it really. Looking at seyberts at Carmelli cues ,all of them say modified. It's been a couple of years since I bought it and I had it in my head this whole time it was a regular 38-10. Looks like I will be sending this one back. Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
https://www.dzcues.com/modified_pin.html look at the difference
 
garczar said:
they make a regular 3/8x10 and a modified flat-bottm 3/8x10. need to have the right one.
Click to expand...
You might be right, my pin is flat on the end. I was sure when I bought this cue it was advertised as a 3/8 -10. Never paid much attention to it really. Looking at seyberts at Carmelli cues ,all of them say modified. It's been a couple of years since I bought it and I had it in my head this whole time it was a regular 38-10. Looks like I will be sending this one back. Thanks guys.
 
Garczar that's funny you posted as I was typing. I just went to Google and looked at that exact article you posted. You and rexus31 were right. Like I said I've had this cue for a couple years and was under the impression it was a regular pin. Dumbass move to order a shaft off of what I thought I had instead of verifying it. Thanks for the help.
 
Those are some great pictures! A careful look reveals a few things. First, looking at the standard thread and the hole it fits in, look how little thread to thread fit is really present. That is why threads are not meant to locate radially. Something else takes a closer look. Look at how the threads fit on each end of the section. The threads were tight on one side at the beginning of the pin, by the end of the pin they are tight on the other side. The gap has moved side to side of the thread. That means that either what cut the male or what cut the female threads wasn't precisely 3/8"-10. Maybe neither one is perfect. Not much error needed to show up in these sharp high magnification images.

The modified thread has a much better wood to metal fit and a lot more of it. It still indicates that the male and female threads aren't both perfect 3/8"-10. Perfect is hard to come by. Those threads are probably good for a lifetime of a shaft, gooder enough!

Hu
 
I called Seyberts today planning to exchange my shirt for the modified pin. Well Justus tells me I can send it in and they will run a 3/8-10 tap through it and all should be good, or I could do it myself..
Being as I am a mechanic for a living I've tapped a lot of bolt holes so no problem. The problem is I can't find a tap locally. Looks like I'll be ordering one from Amazon for 34 bucks and waiting until Monday for it. Still faster and cheaper than shipping to and from Seyberts.
So you can bet next time I order a shaft I will make damn sure what pin I have.
 
Iwishiwasrich said:
I just got my 11.8 cynergy shaft 3/8 - 10 pin. It won't screw on more than half way and it gets super tight. I remember my revo shaft was pretty tight at first but not this tight. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any and all help I can get.
Click to expand...
I like a tight fit, means less void and potential problems in my opinion, just put some chap stick in the threads of your pin. Yes I'm serious, this should help a bit.
 
HueblerHustler7 said:
I like a tight fit, means less void and potential problems in my opinion, just put some chap stick in the threads of your pin. Yes I'm serious, this should help a bit.
Click to expand...


If his is like my 3/8-10 Cynergy it is so tight you can't even get the joint faces to come together and it takes two men to get it apart. This isn't just tight threads, the threads aren't the same profile.

Most threads are rolled and I think the Cynergy fits them with no problem. Cut threads can have all kinds of different profiles especially if single point cut. The G-10 castings also don't fit this insert. They get so tight I was worried about my pin shattering just trying to get it back apart.

Hu
 
rexus31 said:
Won't matter if the threads are different as is the case here.
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3/8-10 is 3/8-10 the difference is the thread pitch I have made custom pin work just fine on regular threads, now Im pretty sure it would be real tight using a regular 3/8-10 pin on modified custom 3/8-10 pin but should still work with some elbow grease, Cynergy shafts also have a softer joint threading material so it should adapt its self after awhile. Now redo's on the other had have a real hard joint thread material, it can even chip. IMHO the chap stick trick is worth the try.
 
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