cushion angle for accu-fast rubber

[sly]

would like to start by saying this is a great forum,with a wealth of info on it,from some of the best mechanics out there.
my question is concerning an old bruns monarch 9ft L shaped rubber,
in able to install accu-fast rubber, what must be the height of the rail,meaning from slate to top of rail,no rubber installed.
also what would be the angle (or bevel) of the wood and should it be 1 1/4 in. wide like the rubber?
whats the height of the point of the rubber from slate?
after the angle is cut for the cushion it has to be cut on the bottom the opposite way whats that angle? and is it important.
any info i would be very thankful
thank you
rod

 

[realkingcobra]

would like to start by saying this is a great forum,with a wealth of info on it,from some of the best mechanics out there.
my question is concerning an old bruns monarch 9ft L shaped rubber,
in able to install accu-fast rubber, what must be the height of the rail,meaning from slate to top of rail,no rubber installed.
also what would be the angle (or bevel) of the wood and should it be 1 1/4 in. wide like the rubber?
whats the height of the point of the rubber from slate?
after the angle is cut for the cushion it has to be cut on the bottom the opposite way whats that angle? and is it important.
any info i would be very thankful
thank you
rod

In order to install Accu-fast rail rubber on a set of rails, you'd first have to plane down the rails to a thickness of 1 1/2". The Monarch rails you currently have are 1 3/4" thick. You'll have to run them through a planer using a jig to hold the rail in, in such a way that the jig is an extension of the rails you want to plane down so that when the rail passes through the planer they don't end up being cupped on either end from the planer blades starting or finishing, that is why you use a jig that extends both ends of the rails, so that any cupping by the planer is done on the wood jig before and after the actual rail. You'll also have to remove any hardware from the bottom of the rails, and remount them after-wards. As far as the cushion height goes, even Accu-fast has to have a point of ball contact being 1 7/16" of an inch above the bed of the slate. Keep in mind, you'll need to re-dado the bottom edge of the rail for cloth relief so that is has no effect on the cushion height when installed. As far as the bevel needed to mount Accu-fast rail rubber, I can't remember it's been so long ago that I've converted any rails to Accu-fast, but I'm sure you can call up Olhausen and find out what the bevel is from them needed to install their rail rubber. As far as the bevel on the rail below the rail rubber, it should be just about the same angle bevel as the bottom side of the rail rubber, maybe 36 degrees or so, I can't remember on that bevel either...LOL

When I get back to my shop, I'll be able to tell you for sure.

Glen

 

[Dead Crab]

The accufast is advertised as being a k-66 profile. That being the case, detailed rail dimensions and angles can be found here:

www.champbilliards.com/view_k66.html

I recently built a set of 1 3/4 rails for Champion cushions using these specs, and they came out to the right height. Mill one test rail and check cushion height carefully before gluing or doing other rails. One degree error in the bevel angle can put the cushion too high or too low. It may be easier to start from scratch than to re-mill old rails.

 

[realkingcobra]

The accufast is advertised as being a k-66 profile. That being the case, detailed rail dimensions and angles can be found here:

www.champbilliards.com/view_k66.html

I recently built a set of 1 3/4 rails for Champion cushions using these specs, and they came out to the right height. Mill one test rail and check cushion height carefully before gluing or doing other rails. One degree error in the bevel angle can put the cushion too high or too low. It may be easier to start from scratch than to re-mill old rails.

Dead Crab, in the drawings you're referring to, please take a look at the rail rubber profile difference between the 1 1/2" thick rail vs the 1 3/4". K66 rail rubber mounted with a 27 degree bevel, does NOT play the same as rail rubber mounted at a 17 degree bevel. Look at the body of the rail rubber in the 2 drawings. In the 1 1/2" rail drawing, the nose of the rail rubber is in more of an upright angle to the main body of the rubber. The top of the rubber is even higher than the thickness of the actual rail. When k66 rail rubber is mounted this way, it causes the rail rubber to move in more of an upward angle when a ball banks into it, instead of backward more into the main body of the rubber. Take a look at the profile of the rubber on the 1 3/4" rail and I think you'll see and understand what I mean.

Glen

 

[realkingcobra]

I'm working on a GC 1 right now that SOMEONE installed Artimus K66 pool rail rubber on. I've said this before, I'll say it again, K66 rail rubber does NOT work on Brunswick GC's. This un-named person installed the K66 rail rubber 1/8th of an inch lower in the rail bevel face inorder to lower the natural point of ball contact from 1 9/16" of an inch to 1 7/16". THEN, belt sanded off the 1/8" lip of the sub-rail to match the top edge of the rubber. The problem with doing this, is that one...the rail rubber is still at the wrong bevel profile for how the rubber was designed to be mounted, in other words, the rubber even though it's at 1 7/16" of an inch high at the point of ball contact, it's still mounted in such a way that the rail rubber is in a tilted upward angle to the ball. Secondly, once the rail has been belt sanded to hide the fact that the rubber didn't fit the rail, you can't ever go back and remount K55 rail rubber again to correct the problem of installing the K66 rubber unless you now replace the wood on the sub-rail that was belt sanded off, or the K55 rubber will be to low if mounted in the same place as the K66.

Glen

 

[Dartman]

This un-named person installed the K66 rail rubber 1/8th of an inch lower in the rail bevel face inorder to lower the natural point of ball contact from 1 9/16" of an inch to 1 7/16". THEN, belt sanded off the 1/8" lip of the sub-rail to match the top edge of the rubber. The problem with doing this, is that one...the rail rubber is still at the wrong bevel profile for how the rubber was designed to be mounted, in other words, the rubber even though it's at 1 7/16" of an inch high at the point of ball contact, it's still mounted in such a way that the rail rubber is in a tilted upward angle to the ball. Secondly, once the rail has been belt sanded to hide the fact that the rubber didn't fit the rail, you can't ever go back and remount K55 rail rubber again to correct the problem

Excellent post and a good illustration of why to use the correct OEM profile when replacing cushions.

 

[Dead Crab]

Dead Crab, in the drawings you're referring to, please take a look at the rail rubber profile difference between the 1 1/2" thick rail vs the 1 3/4". K66 rail rubber mounted with a 27 degree bevel, does NOT play the same as rail rubber mounted at a 17 degree bevel. Look at the body of the rail rubber in the 2 drawings. In the 1 1/2" rail drawing, the nose of the rail rubber is in more of an upright angle to the main body of the rubber. The top of the rubber is even higher than the thickness of the actual rail. When k66 rail rubber is mounted this way, it causes the rail rubber to move in more of an upward angle when a ball banks into it, instead of backward more into the main body of the rubber. Take a look at the profile of the rubber on the 1 3/4" rail and I think you'll see and understand what I mean.

Glen

I agree. That's why I went with 1 3/4" rails.

 

[sly]

thats great! thanks a ton glen for your response,as well to crab thanks
once again such expertese on this forum,its not a rush job but in 2 wks should be done,i'll post how it turns out.
once again thanks
rod