Your point is valid for most but, some of us excel with the right set up. Oh, don't get me wrong, I (like most) can play close to my best with any cue but, for me to play at my highest level (gear) > HAVE TO HAVE "my" specs in a cue.
YMMV.....
Jeff
Custom Revo Weight Choices - balance point
- Thread starter Poolfiend
- Start date
Your point is valid for most but, some of us excel with the right set up. Oh, don't get me wrong, I (like most) can play close to my best with any cue but, for me to play at my highest level (gear) > HAVE TO HAVE "my" specs in a cue.
YMMV.....
Jeff
just a reminder and a few ramblings
A wide range of knowledge among the readers so first I am going to remind those that might need it that balance point is one more thing about pool where we confuse the issue much like referring to high deflection shafts as low deflection. The balance point from the tip is what matters. When we talk about balance points we give the distance forward of the butt end not counting any bumper. My cue has a balance point of 21" and is not forward weighted. The reason is when I measure from the tip I find that my balance point is exactly the same as a very typical 19" on a fifty-eight inch cue. The difference is that my cue is sixty inches.
Some are more sensitive to balance point than others but unless it is extremely different from what we are used to playing with it doesn't seem to matter a whole lot. I dislike a heavily forward weighted cue but absolutely hate a heavily rear weighted cue. For my grip and playing style my cue is slightly forward weighted, my cue doesn't want to rise up in an open bridge.
The right balance for a person gives the perception of a lighter cue compared to one that is extremely out of balance. Grip placement and bridge length have a lot to do with balance point making it an individual thing. Until these things are added in the balance point to be hitting the cue ball at the proper arm position is impossible to know.
In addition, the vast majority of people using the pendulum stroke hit the cue ball late in the stroke, the fore arm is in front of vertical. Wrist and finger action or dropping the elbow slightly can make up for the back of the cue starting to rise, also many people simply don't hit the cue ball where they think they do. When people are struggling with any kind of spin the first thing to do is clean a ball like the nine ball that has markings on it or a marked cue ball and check where the impact point of the tip is on the "cue ball". People tend to focus on the center of the shaft, ignoring the curve of ball and tip.
Final tidbit, go to the local pool hall or bar and hit a rack playing one handed jacked up with your grip hand in the usual position. If you have to move your hand more than about an inch either way of the normal place you hold your cue you might think about trying to rebalance it.
Somebody that has a REVO might check the balance point of just the shaft so that the OP can compare that to his current shaft. Not only what a shaft weighs but where the weight is at matters a great deal to total cue balance. Weight added at the joint end doesn't mean nearly as much as weight at the tip as far as affecting balance.
Hu
A wide range of knowledge among the readers so first I am going to remind those that might need it that balance point is one more thing about pool where we confuse the issue much like referring to high deflection shafts as low deflection. The balance point from the tip is what matters. When we talk about balance points we give the distance forward of the butt end not counting any bumper. My cue has a balance point of 21" and is not forward weighted. The reason is when I measure from the tip I find that my balance point is exactly the same as a very typical 19" on a fifty-eight inch cue. The difference is that my cue is sixty inches.
Some are more sensitive to balance point than others but unless it is extremely different from what we are used to playing with it doesn't seem to matter a whole lot. I dislike a heavily forward weighted cue but absolutely hate a heavily rear weighted cue. For my grip and playing style my cue is slightly forward weighted, my cue doesn't want to rise up in an open bridge.
The right balance for a person gives the perception of a lighter cue compared to one that is extremely out of balance. Grip placement and bridge length have a lot to do with balance point making it an individual thing. Until these things are added in the balance point to be hitting the cue ball at the proper arm position is impossible to know.
In addition, the vast majority of people using the pendulum stroke hit the cue ball late in the stroke, the fore arm is in front of vertical. Wrist and finger action or dropping the elbow slightly can make up for the back of the cue starting to rise, also many people simply don't hit the cue ball where they think they do. When people are struggling with any kind of spin the first thing to do is clean a ball like the nine ball that has markings on it or a marked cue ball and check where the impact point of the tip is on the "cue ball". People tend to focus on the center of the shaft, ignoring the curve of ball and tip.
Final tidbit, go to the local pool hall or bar and hit a rack playing one handed jacked up with your grip hand in the usual position. If you have to move your hand more than about an inch either way of the normal place you hold your cue you might think about trying to rebalance it.
Somebody that has a REVO might check the balance point of just the shaft so that the OP can compare that to his current shaft. Not only what a shaft weighs but where the weight is at matters a great deal to total cue balance. Weight added at the joint end doesn't mean nearly as much as weight at the tip as far as affecting balance.
Hu