Cuttin the rubber

center pocket

center pocket

It's just a hobby, but a fun one.
Silver Member
I have read the threads on sub rail extensions. Its no easy task. One thing I was curious about though. After the extensions have been installed, and the rubber has been glued on; What tool is used to measure the angle at witch you are going to cut the rubber. It has been discussed many of times how important the angles are at if you want your table to play right. Also do you cut it a little longer then the sub rail extensions on purpose so as to sand it all flush? Also how do measure how long to make the rail extensions???
 
you can use a protractor to mark\measure angles and or make a template from an existing table. Always cut a bit long and then sand to desired length. When making the size of the pocket smaller there are other considerations like shelf depth etc. What size you want is up to you within all the variables but there isn't alot of variation.

I use a digital protractor as shown in my other pics. Right now I am repairing a set of GC 3 rails from the hack section and the customer wants them 4 7\8 and 5 3\8. Not much smaller so the angles will be the same as they were but tighter.

I feel like you must have the rails mounted to get an exact measurement when doing this. A little extra time but like I told my customer if all the pockets are NOT exact, there is no charge. I charged him alot.

Hope that helps
 
Yea If you have a fine tooth file and even a med rasp file, thats what I used instead of the sandpaper...needed the sandpaper, and was lucky to have the files in my tool box ;):thumbup:

Grey Ghost
 
Sounds good. I always wondered about that particular part of the job. Thanks. I doubt i will be working on any tables in the near future. I am just going to go with a diamond pro am and get RKC to deliver and setup.
I feel I cant go wrong that way.
 
OTLB said:
can't go wrong there.. What is your avatars meaning?
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure his avatar is what you can't get away with on my table. If you're aiming your shots at the spot where the "green" ball is you are more then likely going to rattle the shot. This is why the "orange" is the right approach.
 
Center Pocket

tjlmbklr said:
I am pretty sure his avatar is what you can't get away with on my table. If you're aiming your shots at the spot where the "green" ball is you are more then likely going to rattle the shot. This is why the "orange" is the right approach.
Click to expand...

I always say center of OB to center of pocket, which isn't the back of the pocket, and if you look at where the CB is I think that is what it is saying.
Mike
 
The real meaning of "Center Pocket" is shown in my avatar. No matter how you look at a pocket, the center of the space from tit to tit is center pocket. So you can forget about the back of the pocket. 90% of the time you always shoot the OB as centered between both the tits as possible. Granted you want to favor the shown facing more then the other on some shots. And on shots down the rail you dont want to hit the facing to close to the tit as we all know that will rattle a ball. If you aim to hit center pocket on your shots once you learn what "center pocket" is and means, then it doesnt matter how tight pockets are. I personally shoot and make balls better on tight tables then on buckets for two reasons. I always aim center pocket and I concentrate more on tighter pockets.
 
Castles in England use to have small openings and it was found that they made excellent targets and many people were struck by archers as a result. Then they made the openings larger and the archers rarely hit them. The smaller the target the easier the aim. Snooker tables area a good example of this.

When aiming center pocket and your cutting the ball as in your avatar do you allow for throw and aim on the inside? If you do, are you really aiming center pocket on alot of cut shots or are you compensating with english?
 
I agree with your consensus of the smaller the target the more "accurate" the aim. When viewing the pocket I always pick a spot to aim for rather than just the pocket opening. Then I find a spot on the back of the object ball the goes straight through it to that spot in the pocket. Thats what I look at. Now if I had a choice I would shoot all my shots at medium to fast speed (6) so that throw wont enter the equation. With clean balls throw will only come up with 25-45 degree cuts on slow to pocket speed shots. I allow for the throw when throw will come into play, but I still intially aim center pocket as my reference before making adjustments. Now to change the aiming point or to use english. I will chose to complicate the shorter part of the shot if position doesnt matter, as position dictates whether english is needed or not. meaning if the OB is close to the pocket I will change aim for throw. if the VB is close the OB and the OB is farther from the pocket. I will use english. By complicating the shorter part of the shot you can make smaller adjustments minimizing your misses.

Here is some trivia for you on throw. If you put the Object ball on the center spot and the Cue ball on the head spot and shoot the object ball into one of the corner pockets with follow. Will the same aiming point on the Object ball shot with draw go into the same pocket? Both shots are hit at medium speed lets say 4 out of 10, 10 being king kong and 1 being like a feather.

Pm me when you have an answer.

By the way this is a good discussion
 
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You can find the answer to that question in the book "Banking With The Beard". Read it two nights ago. Great book too.
 
I don't know, balls are clean and cloth is new on my table but I would say when hit with draw the OB would move down table and perhaps miss the corner if hit the same as with high ball. I tried it but I don't think I can watch the hit good enough to know if I am hitting it in the same spot.
 
Long before that book came out i found the answer myself. Draw will narrow the angle making you miss hitting the end rail, Follow will widen the angle making you miss hitting the side rail. This is ofcourse hit at a speed that will allow some spin to transfer to the Object Ball.
 
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