Cutting silver rings

hadjcues said:
Hopefully the more experienced cuemakers could give a hand in this Greg



Yeah hadj, we probably sound like a couple of first graders LOL. Wish I felt like one sometimes. I would be very gratefull also for any super trick on this one myself. Either way I will figure one out If I have to glue a bunch of test pieces and try under cutting with every possible method I can think of until i figure out the best way of producing the best results for my taste. I just like to take in every ones experiences,to help compare with My own, to figure out what method best suits me. Much like many I'm sure. When I find something that seems like a winner, I will share it, if none of the masters chime in and give us the low down on It first out of the kindness of their heart. To be honest, I would be plenty happy with not using them at all in my cues, if not so nice looking. they really can add alot of class to the looks of a cue. I just did one the other day above a buttplate to play with them some more for more experience, and end results were good, just alot more effort to undercut them perfectly. Cutting them even is not a problem, I was able to work the ring to size with patience, and then flush them up once the ring was backed on both sides. My issue is not that i can't do it, but more that It takes alot more effort and time to do the quality, then It seems like It should take, there has got to be an easier sure fire way to undercut.
 
I have found that an indexable cutter works pretty nicely. I like to chuck the cue up in a collet right near the rings I am cutting, and dial indicate beforehand.

CTS-012(b).jpg
 
Sheldon said:
I have found that an indexable cutter works pretty nicely. I like to chuck the cue up in a collet right near the rings I am cutting, and dial indicate beforehand.

CTS-012(b).jpg




Thanks sheldon,
You are a good guy, and always seem to be more then willing to share, won't forget you for It. If i can ever return it in the future, I will be more then happy to.

Those are like the ones I am using, but the inserts on mine are gold in color. Yours look as If they may cut alittle sharper though, If you don't mind, Where could we pick some of those up? I have seen them in travers, but don't know which are the best quality versus the cost. Wonder if the inserts will fit my cheap set? They do seem to work better then any bits I have used no matter how sharp. I would like to get a better quality set though. Mine were probably imported, and only 40 or 50 bucks for a boxed set, so don't think they are on top of the quality list, but as I mentioned they were the best I used so far for this, so looking to try some simular, but better quality.
I won't even ask you how you mitered those inays like that before cutting the shape out, save that for another time, but I was impressed. also not sure, but If that was your site I saw, you sure do some nice work. love that lathe, and other goodies in shop also. As soon as I get the extra space ready here, I am looking into a beast of a floor lathe for Myself to add to My setup. hopefully a new one, ofcoarse moving the thing is going to be something else. Thanks again Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
Those are like the ones I am using, but the inserts on mine are gold in color. Yours look as If they may cut alittle sharper though, If you don't mind, Where could we pick some of those up?
Actually, the one I use is a gold colored one too, I just grabbed those pics off of the net for an example. They were from an ebay auction by this company: http://www.pitstool.com/

Cue Crazy said:
I won't even ask you how you mitered those inays like that before cutting the shape out, save that for another time, but I was impressed. also not sure, but If that was your site I saw, you sure do some nice work. love that lathe, and other goodies in shop also. As soon as I get the extra space ready here, I am looking into a beast of a floor lathe for Myself to add to My setup. hopefully a new one, ofcoarse moving the thing is going to be something else. Thanks again Greg
The gold veneers I made from a .030 thick sheet. I cut it into strips 3/16 wide, then dropped them into .030 wide slot in some black inlay sheet. I then cut the proper angles at the ends, and cut the gold out leaving .010 black on the sides. What I end up with is 2 long pieces and one curved one that then fit together in a triangular pocket with an island cut in cocobolo. Then I cut the whole thing out and drop it into the cue. EASY!! :p
As for my website, I have not updated it in several years, Hopefully I will be rebuilding it soon, and will put some of my more recent stuff up.
 
Sheldon said:
Actually, the one I use is a gold colored one too, I just grabbed those pics off of the net for an example. They were from an ebay auction by this company: http://www.pitstool.com/


The gold veneers I made from a .030 thick sheet. I cut it into strips 3/16 wide, then dropped them into .030 wide slot in some black inlay sheet. I then cut the proper angles at the ends, and cut the gold out leaving .010 black on the sides. What I end up with is 2 long pieces and one curved one that then fit together in a triangular pocket with an island cut in cocobolo. Then I cut the whole thing out and drop it into the cue. EASY!! :p
As for my website, I have not updated it in several years, Hopefully I will be rebuilding it soon, and will put some of my more recent stuff up.



Thanks Sheldon,
I think I am just going to experiment with what ever inserts I can find to fit this set I have for now, to see if there is any differences. Here is a picture of one I used over a butt cap a few days back just to test them out with. they did alright, but it raised up a hair after I worked the butt cap. I do alot of ferrule jobs, and work many joints on a regular basis, so I have a good idea about materials sanding away and all, had plenty of practice with that kind of stuff, so have learned It, and you cannot usually feel stuff like this in my work at all, but These things are giving me a hard time for some reason. when I trim them, the edges of the ring wants to fold over some no matter how shallow, or deep of a cut, and how I position the tool. now I aquired a method that did better, but still not thrilled with It, and undercutting is another story. I have done them on shafts, and don't remember them being this tough. the ring is nic/silver, I bet these inserts would cut like butter through those aluminum & brass rings, but I want some inserts that cut the silvers that well. All in all I think I could get by with these when just doing one ring like this one, but If I load any rings up in a cue might be another story. I was running it between centers though, because It was fresh and running really true at the time, so probably should collet the thing as you mentioned and indicate It. I'll try that next, could just be push off I am getting because of the way It was mounted. The more I think about It, the more that seems that might be what's going on here because of the way the edge of the rings are folding over. the inserts seem sharp enough for the most part, so maybe that's My problem. thanks again for that one also, you may have just helped me figure out what It is going on. I'll let you know when I get to try it, think I am going to do some minor inlays in it first, and trim the cue before trying to undercut It again, this one is going to be a thin butt anyway.


I Believe those points might have came easy for you sheldon, but then again you do not strike me as the average bear, so not sure it would for all. Knowing how Is only a quarter of to half the battle, and looks like you did some pretty good work on It to me. They sure are unique looking, really cool design. I want to see It when your done. Also, let me know if, and when you update the site, in case I miss It when you do, I'd love to see what you've been working on. thanks Again Greg
 

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Cue Crazy said:
I Believe those points might have came easy for you sheldon, but then again you do not strike me as the average bear, so not sure it would for all. Knowing how Is only a quarter of to half the battle, and looks like you did some pretty good work on It to me. They sure are unique looking, really cool design. I want to see It when your done. Also, let me know if, and when you update the site, in case I miss It when you do, I'd love to see what you've been working on. thanks Again Greg

Trust me, I was being SARCASTIC when I said that..... Luckily I have customers that tend to push my limits, and force me to do things I might not attempt otherwise.

Good luck on trimming the nickel silver, If I could offer anymore advice I would, but I think you will probably be able to figure a way. That's the true secret to doing exceptional work, you have to be able to innovate, and improvise. :)
 
Sheldon said:
Trust me, I was being SARCASTIC when I said that..... Luckily I have customers that tend to push my limits, and force me to do things I might not attempt otherwise.

Good luck on trimming the nickel silver, If I could offer anymore advice I would, but I think you will probably be able to figure a way. That's the true secret to doing exceptional work, you have to be able to innovate, and improvise. :)





LOL, I'm with you on that one, they do tend to do that don't they. Think that's when I do some of My best work, but sometimes I have to hold my ground, and tell them it's just too much at the time for Me to take on. Sometimes they end up being easier then I originally thought though, once they break Me down and talk me into It that is.
I do apprietiate the advice on the rings, and your right I'm really not that far from kicking this one, so i'll get It. i've seen alot worse then what I am doing now anyway, just looking to perfect it. If I don't, then oh well on this one because the only purpose they serve to me is looks anyway, just one of those things people want sometimes. Personally I am starting to favor the all wood, but want a crisper hit then usually asociated with them. Maybe that's where I need to focus most of my inovation. got a small bit of cash burning a hole in my levis, think I am about to get one of those foredoms, maybe I can figure out something using that for the rings as well to play around with. I always had a nack for being somewhat inovative, and figuring out what I set out on, but I guess with My time being more limited now, not as much to go over every possible senerio Like I used to could. It's hurting My creativity also a little. All that aside, I am happy enough with the hits, and balance so far, they hit atleast as good as anything else I shoot with, so figure thats a start, and can only get better. trying to get My brother to let me start teaching him the simple repair, so I can focus more on the cues when i move to the bigger space & add more lathes to work on, and just do the harder repair work when need be. Atleast that would free up some time. I don't want to have to teach it to just anyone. I have heard what a mistake that can be, and i'd rather keep it in the family anyway so to speak anyhow. I'll share My experiences, but hands on is another thing to think about.
Thanks Again Sheldon, don't forget to let me know when You reveal your latest work. Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
I have always cut my Nic./silver rings with a manual tool in my tool post. Curious if anyone uses their router with a straight bit to trim these? If so, what's the correct type of bit to use, A carbide? I'm already aware that the rings will heat up, just never cut them with the router, and wondering if It's possible there could be a easier way using It instead of the manual cutting tool? Also curious what others use to seal the cue before clearcote, not nelsonite, but what they seal the pores with, before final sand, and clear coating. something that will also prime the rings in the same proccess. Brand name, and type would also be of help. I am assuming answers on that would be some kind of epoxy or super glue.Thanks in advance, Greg

I cut the rings with the router. Then I file them with a thin knife file. After that I finish sand the cue. The rings around the silver will sand faster so be carefull that the silver is not higher than the surrounding rings. If they are then I file again. I don't under cut them much or any at all. I just make sure that they are not above the surrounding areas. Then I seal and finish as usual.
 
I have totally quit using them in cues, unless someone really twists my arm. I have seen very few cues a few years old by anyone that does not have problems around the silver rings. I just make stitch rings out of silver glued into black linen phenolic and have not had any problems with them. I personally don't think they are pretty enough in the cue to be worth building a problem into the cue.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
 
cueman said:
I have totally quit using them in cues, unless someone really twists my arm. I have seen very few cues a few years old by anyone that does not have problems around the silver rings. I just make stitch rings out of silver glued into black linen phenolic and have not had any problems with them. I personally don't think they are pretty enough in the cue to be worth building a problem into the cue.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com

have you seen any problems in george's or gus's?

and what specific problems have you seen?

have you had any problems in the ones you'v done?

thanks
 
Murray Tucker said:
I cut the rings with the router. Then I file them with a thin knife file. After that I finish sand the cue. The rings around the silver will sand faster so be carefull that the silver is not higher than the surrounding rings. If they are then I file again. I don't under cut them much or any at all. I just make sure that they are not above the surrounding areas. Then I seal and finish as usual.

i agree.... the table saw just eats up also.

i agree.... if you undercut them the finnish will just shrink more in that spot.

no matter what anyone says they will not swell!!!!

if you think about it the metal is the most stable material in the cue, unless you put some sort of stone in.

make sure theyr clean so they dont tarnish, thats probably the biggest problem i see from begginers.
 
merylane said:
i agree.... the table saw just eats up also.

i agree.... if you undercut them the finnish will just shrink more in that spot.

no matter what anyone says they will not swell!!!!

if you think about it the metal is the most stable material in the cue, unless you put some sort of stone in.

make sure theyr clean so they dont tarnish, thats probably the biggest problem i see from begginers.


quote
"make sure theyr clean so they dont tarnish, thats probably the biggest problem i see from begginers.

The finish you use can cause the problems. Some finishes such as conversion varnish used by many cue makers uses acid as the catalyst and it wil change the color of the metal in the ring.
 
merylane said:
i agree.... the table saw just eats up also.

i agree.... if you undercut them the finnish will just shrink more in that spot.

no matter what anyone says they will not swell!!!!

if you think about it the metal is the most stable material in the cue, unless you put some sort of stone in.

make sure theyr clean so they dont tarnish, thats probably the biggest problem i see from begginers.
Metal is one of the most unstable when it comes to heat. The rings will get larger in diameter if they get hot. True, metal is not unstable when it comes to moisture but will expand with heat and shrink with enough cold. If your washer swells 3 or 4 thousandths it will pop the finish. I am not sure why sterling does not swell or shrink much, but nickel is really bad.
 
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merylane said:
have you seen any problems in george's or gus's?

and what specific problems have you seen?

have you had any problems in the ones you'v done?

thanks
Yes on all three counts. I have seen rings swollen on those also, though not as bad as many. George had less problems because he often used sterling instead of nickel and only use a light laquer finish so you wouldn't notice it cracking the finish as there was not much of a finish.
 
Thanks for bringing this back up Murray. How much to undercut was an issue of mine as well, so that helped. as I mentioned I can do them flush, and they look real good most of the time, but the undercutting is alittle tougher. I am pretty much doing them the same way I hear others are so guess i am on the right track.

The rings will expand from heat, but what stumps me is sometimes they seem to rise after they cool instead of strinking. that goes against all logic to me, but seems to happen sometimes. I do aggree that metal will expand when hot, and strink when cool, but seems to me, the most heat they see is when cutting them, unless the cue was left in a seriously hot vehicle or something. In that case would not be good for any part of the cue.

I aggree with Chris on the issue that the rings serve no real purpose except for looks, and I prefer not to use them, but some people want them, so i must master it for myself for when the need arises. they seem to flatten out the hit alittle to me. I do like a steel joints crispness for my personal cue though, because my game is alittle looser then most, kind of like keith's style, but affraid I don't share the same charm he does. The all wood seems to be working for others, so i will build more in that style probably.

Another thing that I believe could cause the rings to rise would be if the were not perfectly flat to begin with, after the cue compresses them they could also rise that way. That's why I make sure I sand them perfectly flat before installing. Also helps the glue stick.

After this thread, I was left kind of feeling like noone wanted to come off the answers to this one, because seemed as if they were doing it the same as me from what I heard, Unless My cordination was not good when undercutting, not something I have ever had a real problem with, as i have alway been as cordinated, or more so then most others I know, so I went into deep thought about a better method, went back and checked out the different materials, and think I figured it out. Chris I will give you this, altough it came alittle late, you are like a book of knowledge sometimes, because what I came up with before reading these latest responses, was that the material was the problem, as in the nickel part, and seems to me if you want a quality job you have to spend the extra bucks per ring, and go with the solid sterling instead of nickel/silver rings, so i have some on the way to try out. I am also going to try those sterling billet strips out to see how I like those.

Thanks to everyone for their imput on this, even if i don't get the exact answers i need all the time right out the gate, It sometimes helps me come to My own conclusions, which rang true I believe in this one. Won't know for sure till I try the new rings, but pretty sure that will help quite a bit. Besides we all know most of the time quality materials cost more, and leads to an overall better end product. thanks Again, Greg

Thanks guys, will let you'all know how It works out.
 
May want to try aluminum rings, they don't seem to have the problem of expanding like the nickel rings. I've used them successfully on many of my cues and they don't add as much weight as the nickel/silver rings They look silver instead of that gold tone that nickel/silver rings have.....easier on the router blades when cutting too. They will still pop the finish if they cue is owned by a person that continually leaves it in their car and then brings it into a warm pool room, especially in the climate where I live.
Mike
 
I have a cue with twin silver rings by the butt cap. They're the thin kind. They have not risen at all after almost three years of abuse from me.
I think using an epoxy that has high melting temperature and making sure they are scratched before finishing do the trick. Bordering them with phenolic I think is a mush b/c wood around them might shrink.
 
Cue Crazy said:
Thanks for bringing this back up Murray. How much to undercut was an issue of mine as well, so that helped. as I mentioned I can do them flush, and they look real good most of the time, but the undercutting is alittle tougher. I am pretty much doing them the same way I hear others are so guess i am on the right track.

The rings will expand from heat, but what stumps me is sometimes they seem to rise after they cool instead of strinking. that goes against all logic to me, but seems to happen sometimes. I do aggree that metal will expand when hot, and strink when cool, but seems to me, the most heat they see is when cutting them, unless the cue was left in a seriously hot vehicle or something. In that case would not be good for any part of the cue.

I aggree with Chris on the issue that the rings serve no real purpose except for looks, and I prefer not to use them, but some people want them, so i must master it for myself for when the need arises. they seem to flatten out the hit alittle to me. I do like a steel joints crispness for my personal cue though, because my game is alittle looser then most, kind of like keith's style, but affraid I don't share the same charm he does. The all wood seems to be working for others, so i will build more in that style probably.

Another thing that I believe could cause the rings to rise would be if the were not perfectly flat to begin with, after the cue compresses them they could also rise that way. That's why I make sure I sand them perfectly flat before installing. Also helps the glue stick.

After this thread, I was left kind of feeling like noone wanted to come off the answers to this one, because seemed as if they were doing it the same as me from what I heard, Unless My cordination was not good when undercutting, not something I have ever had a real problem with, as i have alway been as cordinated, or more so then most others I know, so I went into deep thought about a better method, went back and checked out the different materials, and think I figured it out. Chris I will give you this, altough it came alittle late, you are like a book of knowledge sometimes, because what I came up with before reading these latest responses, was that the material was the problem, as in the nickel part, and seems to me if you want a quality job you have to spend the extra bucks per ring, and go with the solid sterling instead of nickel/silver rings, so i have some on the way to try out. I am also going to try those sterling billet strips out to see how I like those.

Thanks to everyone for their imput on this, even if i don't get the exact answers i need all the time right out the gate, It sometimes helps me come to My own conclusions, which rang true I believe in this one. Won't know for sure till I try the new rings, but pretty sure that will help quite a bit. Besides we all know most of the time quality materials cost more, and leads to an overall better end product. thanks Again, Greg

Thanks guys, will let you'all know how It works out.
I quit using the nickle rings before someone showed me this but it has really helped him. He roughs up his silver rings really rough on each side and the same with the phenolic rings on each side. Then he glues then with west system epoxy and now has much less swelling. The west system and the rough edges holds the two different types of materials together. He also glues his veneers and points in with it now and it has cut way down on being able to feel the points down the road.
Chris
 
That's what I do chris, but just use an really even skim coat of sytem three, or devcon, just enough so very alittle sqeezes out when i compress them and clamp, both are kind of thick, and the system three seems to get thicker if you don't use It all up really quick, so I have been wanting to try the west system. Bad thing is, they sell It right down the road from Me I believe, and have not even got by there to pick any up. i think I am going to go down and pick some up tomorrow, or this weekend. They probably have different types of It I am thinking, If so, do you know which type? I am thinking It would be of a thinner version since used in veneers, but want to make sure I get the best type they have, because not cheap If I pick the wrong one. I have some ebony triangles I cut to use in a short splice, and was thinking of adding one or two veneers, so would like to try the west sys. on that also. Maybe try it in my trim billet as well. the reason i am skim coating the rings now is because it seems to produce less of a problem with glue lines when i do that, hopefully the west will help some with that as well, because i would rather slap plenty of glue on those rings if the epoxy was thinner, and compressed better. i can do it with no lines, but not 100% everytime. if i were doing black would not be a problem though.

Mike, you are correct the alluminum is alot easier, really shiny, and have used them. The price is certainly better, as well as the movement characteristics, even have plenty around here to use, will probably use them on some of the low cost sneakys, but some want them silver, even if with the nickel in them. I can spot the difference between the 2 in a finished cue with ease, so imagine they would too, besides that, if specifically asked for, I would not be able to switch, because have to give them what they ask for. I will probably use them in some of the cues that are not built to specs for someone, and will advise of the price difference, and difference in characteristices, but since I am not a big fan of metal rings in general, may be few. I am just trying to get My technics down on each type right now. going to try some brass as well, I imagine those would go well like the aluminum. The nickel/silver will definatly be replaced for solid sterling. No more nickel for me. wish I had some solid gold rings :D

Thanks again guys, do appietiate It.

Greg
 
cueman said:
I quit using the nickle rings before someone showed me this but it has really helped him. He roughs up his silver rings really rough on each side and the same with the phenolic rings on each side. Then he glues then with west system epoxy and now has much less swelling. The west system and the rough edges holds the two different types of materials together. He also glues his veneers and points in with it now and it has cut way down on being able to feel the points down the road.
Chris

why do you keep calling it swelling? do you really think that is happening?

that reminds me of 2 high end cuemakers, 1 says nicklesilver has a higher moisture content than silver... :confused: what the &%$ IS HE THINKING?
the other says only the thick ones swell? go figger...

yes its true all materials expand with heat, and contract with cold(except water it also expands) but im sure the metal would be the last to do it, maybee you should consult a chemist.... or maybee experiment.... turn a 1" dowel, put it and your silver ring in the oven at different degrees and measure wich one moves the most.

id love to hear the results as i dont have an oven so i cant do it myself.
 
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