Cutting wood

bubsbug

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'v been having a blast cutting wood. Think I might be wasting some though. I have been cutting most blanks to 18" and then turning round to about 1.400. What size do most folks rough cut there square blanks to before turning round. Forearm, handles, buttsleve. I have been thinking that it doesn't make much since to cut forearm at 18" whith the intent to use the last 4-5 inches for buttsleve because at some poin I will have to cut it off and then make another center hole. I sure have been making sawdust, from Cocobolo, Ebony, bubanga sp, birdseye, curley mapel, reg mapel, Purpleheart, rosewoods and just all kinds of wood, anyways thanks in advance!! Heck I have even been cutting my own logs up into blanks, thats some really nasty stuff it get everywhere!!!
 
bubsbug said:
I'v been having a blast cutting wood. Think I might be wasting some though. I have been cutting most blanks to 18" and then turning round to about 1.400. What size do most folks rough cut there square blanks to before turning round. Forearm, handles, buttsleve. I have been thinking that it doesn't make much since to cut forearm at 18" whith the intent to use the last 4-5 inches for buttsleve because at some poin I will have to cut it off and then make another center hole. I sure have been making sawdust, from Cocobolo, Ebony, bubanga sp, birdseye, curley mapel, reg mapel, Purpleheart, rosewoods and just all kinds of wood, anyways thanks in advance!! Heck I have even been cutting my own logs up into blanks, thats some really nasty stuff it get everywhere!!!


Hey Bugzy, I cut them until they are round from square.

good cutting, Jimbo
 
I usually core 13-14" of it and save the other piece for the butt or for rings. I've now got a bunch of scraps that are too short for points or forearms that may or may not match what I put in for points. I've started cutting those into thin slabs for inlays.

Since I really only make cues with points, the butt usually doesn't match the forearm, but it matches the points (unless it's an ebony forearm). In that case, I cut 10-11" off for points and turn the rest round. That will give me enough for the matching butt and some rings. I always make sure I know which end goes with the points so that the butt will match up well.
 
if youhave a good saw cut the corners off and use them as point stock. The piece has to be abs. square to do it.
 
I cut my forearms to 13.25 inches...handles to 16.25 for 29 inch cues...buttsleeves generally are 4 ~ 5 inches long...when done I want a 13 inch forearm total length...12 inches of wrap and the rest to the buttsleeve and cap...
 
Craig Fales said:
I cut my forearms to 13.25 inches...handles to 16.25 for 29 inch cues...buttsleeves generally are 4 ~ 5 inches long...when done I want a 13 inch forearm total length...12 inches of wrap and the rest to the buttsleeve and cap...


That's what I was looking for, Thanks a million!!
 
bubsbug said:
I'v been having a blast cutting wood. Think I might be wasting some though. I have been cutting most blanks to 18" and then turning round to about 1.400. What size do most folks rough cut there square blanks to before turning round. Forearm, handles, buttsleve. I have been thinking that it doesn't make much since to cut forearm at 18" whith the intent to use the last 4-5 inches for buttsleve because at some poin I will have to cut it off and then make another center hole. I sure have been making sawdust, from Cocobolo, Ebony, bubanga sp, birdseye, curley mapel, reg mapel, Purpleheart, rosewoods and just all kinds of wood, anyways thanks in advance!! Heck I have even been cutting my own logs up into blanks, thats some really nasty stuff it get everywhere!!!
The reason I turn the whole piece down to 1.375" and then chop off the butt sleeve is it is easier to center drill and turn one piece than center drill 4 holes and turn two pieces. In the new Advanced video volume two I show how to square up a turning square, chop off the butt sleeve, take 4 point pieces off the outside and save a 1.125" square out of the middle for a forearm. This works with or without veneers. If I am not saving point pieces I prefer turning the whole piece round in one shot in stead of two. Another thing I have done is take cut the sleeve off the square, cut a 3/16" thick inlay slab off one side of the forearm piece and turn it one quarter of a turn and run it through the bandsaw again taking another inlay slab off. It gives me one slab 1.5 wide and one slab 1.25 wide. I usually waste a lot of wood when turning, but when you start dealing with burls and snakewood I save all I can.
 
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cueman said:
The reason I turn the whole piece down to 1.375" and then chop off the butt sleeve is it is easier to center drill and turn one piece than center drill 4 holes and turn two pieces. In the new Advanced video volume two I show how to square up a turning square, chop off the butt sleeve, take 4 point pieces off the outside and save a 1.125" square out of the middle for a forearm. This works with or without veneers. If I am not saving point pieces I prefer turning the whole piece round in one shot in stead of two. Another thing I have done is take cut the sleeve off the square, cut a 3/16" thick inlay slab off one side of the forearm piece and turn it one quarter of a turn and run it through the bandsaw again taking another inlay slab off. It gives me one slab 1.5 wide and one slab 1.25 wide. I usually waste a lot of wood when turning, but when you start dealing with burls and snakewood I save all I can.

I have a bandsaw jig to cut off the corners of squares...
 
i turn the entire pc round if its a sloid forearm. i also found it easier to work with round.

my spces are as followed

12'' forearm
12.5'' handle
3'' buttsleeve
1.5 in delrin buttcap
-----
29''

just like gus...
 
Craig Fales said:
I have a bandsaw jig to cut off the corners of squares...
That is a handy thing to have. I should take the time to build one again. I got together a bunch of V-Groove blanks years ago and have been using those blanks up until recently when I started back to making them. I have no idea what became of the wood jig with the groove cut into it. I just tough it out and run it up against the fence at a 45 degree angle. I have messed up before allowing it to slip and ruined some wood pieces and bend blades.
 
Can anyone show pics of bandsaw jig. I have been thinking of ripping the corners off. Thusfar I have just been putting square blanks on and cutting round. Is it more of a time saver, or wood saver for other projects???
 
I have a bandsaw that the table tilts, so no jig needed. Cutting the corners saves on wood, if you are going to use the cutoffs for points, takes a little more time, but less wear and tear on the router and cutters, which saves you money in the long run.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I have a bandsaw that the table tilts, so no jig needed. Cutting the corners saves on wood, if you are going to use the cutoffs for points, takes a little more time, but less wear and tear on the router and cutters, which saves you money in the long run.
Dave
My table tilts also but unfortunated the fence can't be used as it has to be moved way back out of the way. So you have the hassle of clamping a board down for a fence guide on mine. Way too much trouble to cut one piece. I have done it when gettting ready to cut a bunch of wood.
 
cueman said:
My table tilts also but unfortunated the fence can't be used as it has to be moved way back out of the way. So you have the hassle of clamping a board down for a fence guide on mine. Way too much trouble to cut one piece. I have done it when gettting ready to cut a bunch of wood.
I'm lucky, the fence can be on either side of blade. It's a fairly new craftsman 12". I also wait to cut a few at the same time. saves alittle time on setup.
 
cueman said:
My table tilts also but unfortunated the fence can't be used as it has to be moved way back out of the way. So you have the hassle of clamping a board down for a fence guide on mine. Way too much trouble to cut one piece. I have done it when gettting ready to cut a bunch of wood.

My fence can only be used on the inside as well, so using it when the table is tilted to 45 degrees is not really an option.

I made several sliding platforms from mdf that lock into the miter slot. They serve as a "fixed fence" that different jigs slide on for cutting corners and spliting points, etc.

Kelly
 
bandsaw trick

Here is a little trick that probably everyone knows. In my opinon fence's on a bandsaw are useless because when cutting with a band saw the blade has a tendency to wonder at times. It you take a small 1 inch wide board mabe 3/4 thick and clamp it down where 1/2 inch is in front of the blade and 1/2 is behind the cutting edge of the blade, then all you have to do when ripping is make sure that the side of your board is always in contact with your clamped peice. This works very well when dealing with very thin cuts. When I say in front, its in front of the bandsaw teeth but out to the side at you desired width of cut.
 
bubsbug said:
Here is a little trick that probably everyone knows. In my opinon fence's on a bandsaw are useless because when cutting with a band saw the blade has a tendency to wonder at times. It you take a small 1 inch wide board mabe 3/4 thick and clamp it down where 1/2 inch is in front of the blade and 1/2 is behind the cutting edge of the blade, then all you have to do when ripping is make sure that the side of your board is always in contact with your clamped peice. This works very well when dealing with very thin cuts. When I say in front, its in front of the bandsaw teeth but out to the side at you desired width of cut.

I can't say anything about your idea or technique for improving the cut on a bandsaw with a wandering blade because I have trouble picturing it and have never tried it. However, I disagree with your opinion that bandsaw fence's "are useless". All bandsaws are not created equal, and sometimes even good ones could stand a little tuning. That is the problem.

The fence on my bandsaw is very useful, no problem with wandering.

Kelly
 
bubsbug said:
Here is a little trick that probably everyone knows. In my opinon fence's on a bandsaw are useless because when cutting with a band saw the blade has a tendency to wonder at times. It you take a small 1 inch wide board mabe 3/4 thick and clamp it down where 1/2 inch is in front of the blade and 1/2 is behind the cutting edge of the blade, then all you have to do when ripping is make sure that the side of your board is always in contact with your clamped peice. This works very well when dealing with very thin cuts. When I say in front, its in front of the bandsaw teeth but out to the side at you desired width of cut.

Band saws need to have good sharp blades and be tuned to cut well. The blades dull rather quickly when cutting hard woods. If the wheels have been co-planed and the guides are set correctly with a good blade then the fence can be used easily. Some blades will drift a little but that's not a problem as long as it's consistent and when this happens you set your fence at an angle to compensate. Mark Duginske has a very good book that describes setting up a band saw. I re-saw all of my wood for inlays on a cheap 14" Chinese band saw that is set up properly. Although my wood is seldom wider than 4", my inlay slabs are consistent within about .005 on any measurement. Trying to cut to fast with not enough blade speed, guides loose or blade at wrong tension will cause problems.

Dick
 
bandsaw

Ok, Maybe I should not have said useless, but here is an example of what I said earlyer. Once you learn to use this method you won't want to use a fence ever again.....Well....maybe not. Even at 45 degree tilt no problem. All you have to do is keed the edge of the board against the block of wood. I think it's much easier then a fence. So easy a cave man can do it!!:) :)
 

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Band Saw Jig For Cutting Corners

My jig for cutting off corners is made very simple. Take a 1X6 board and cut off one side at a 45 Degree angle. Take a piece of angle aluminum and drill holes and countersink for screw heads. Mount the V channel to the board you cut to 45 degree angle and you have a V channel to slide your wood through. The only part that is hanging over the board is the corners of the piece of square. I had this pic on my website, but it is not there now. I will see if I have it if anyone wants to see a pic. I am not sure what you are trying to do with the jig you have on the saw, but just my .02 cents.

 
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