DC motor for 13x40 enco leadscrew

C

chuckie

Registered
Trying to set up my enco to do ring billets and points. I have been advised to disconnect the leadscrew from main gears and add a dc motor to the lead screw down by the tailstock end. Any one have any suggestions on which variable speed dc motor and controller to buy? Any and all help is always appreciated..
Thanks
 
In all honesty, it would probably be cheaper and easier to do what is in this other thread that you had:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=335019
Just buy an inexpensive indexer and build a wood mount to attach it to the bed of your lathe in front of the headstock. Then using the tailstock and the indexer to hold the workpiece, you are free to turn on the lathe and use the powerfeed already there. Just watch yourself around the rotating chuck on the headstock, don't wanna throw an arm or hand in there by accident. I plan on doing this myself in the near future, just been too lazy.
Trying to get a strong enough DC motor = $$$ then custom building an adaptor to attach a gear that will match the one on your leadscrew. Then if anything is off on the alignment, bang! there goes the gear teeth....I've already played with this on my Atlas...
Dave
 
Hi,

I did this with an Atlas lathe it cost over 900.00. I had to get a big love joy coupler and I fabricated a mounting plate to mount the DC motor. The motor has variable speed dc control and costs almost 800.00.

Works perfect. I used it for shafts and needed to get my travel speed way slower than the lathe would give me.

I used it for a few months before finishing my saw tapering machines. I have not used that lathe since 5 years ago because I fell in love with the saw machines ,

I will post some pics of the set up later tonight, it may give you some ideas.

Rick
 
Last edited:
One possibility

I don't know if this will work for you on an Enco, but maybe it will give you some ideas to get started. On my Atlas you can get at the tailstock end of the leadscrew, so I screwed on a coupler nut, then a bolt with toothed pulley. It is driven by a car power window motor which has it's own gear reduction built in. I had a 12 V power supply and bought a cheap PWM board off eBay. By disengaging the main drive on the lead screw and leaving the lathe powered off, I can dial down to virtually a crawl, or run up to around (as I recall) 12 in/min by driving the leadscrew from the tailstock end. Also, the Atlas has 60 index holes in the headstock so I don't need a separate indexer for what I've been doing so far.

Hope it helps -

mac

p.s. FWIW - another 'off the wall' thought I considered was using a live center in the headstock to hold the workpiece. The lathe could run, but would not rotate the work if the tailstock has it well clamped, and you could use the powered leadscrew in normal fashion.
 
My favorite machine for slotting billets is a mill.
They have more than a few advantages.
Ex: You're spinning a .125" end-mill but the billet requires a .140" slot.
Cut the .125" slot and move the table .015" for the return pass.
Bingo, a .140" slot.

This same mill can be used to mill the .1875" inlay mtrl to .140".
This same mill can be used to cut point Vs and square the point mtrl.
This same mill can be used to mill any mtrls that need squared or milled.
This same mill can be used to drill holes.
This same mill can be used to free-up your lathe.
This same mill can be had on Craigs List for about $500 (or less).
I've seen BridgePorts go for about that much.
Floor space a concern? Buy a bench-top.

Oh, I forgot to mention. Pwr-Fd, pre-made to fit the machine, about $250-300.
Let's not forget DROs.

HTHs, KJ
 
Last edited:
Scratchy said:
I don't know if this will work for you on an Enco, but maybe it will give you some ideas to get started. On my Atlas you can get at the tailstock end of the leadscrew, so I screwed on a coupler nut, then a bolt with toothed pulley. It is driven by a car power window motor which has it's own gear reduction built in. I had a 12 V power supply and bought a cheap PWM board off eBay. By disengaging the main drive on the lead screw and leaving the lathe powered off, I can dial down to virtually a crawl, or run up to around (as I recall) 12 in/min by driving the leadscrew from the tailstock end. Also, the Atlas has 60 index holes in the headstock so I don't need a separate indexer for what I've been doing so far.

Hope it helps -

mac

p.s. FWIW - another 'off the wall' thought I considered was using a live center in the headstock to hold the workpiece. The lathe could run, but would not rotate the work if the tailstock has it well clamped, and you could use the powered leadscrew in normal fashion.
Click to expand...
That's pretty cool...Its what im prolly gonna try to do...Do you remember what the dc motor came off of? I was wondering what these guys are using to power the feedscrews on the taig style lathes? I never would have thought of a power window motor.. thanks for the input..
 
KJ Cues said:
My favorite machine for slotting billets is a mill.
They have more than a few advantages.
Ex: You're spinning a .125" end-mill but the billet requires a .140" slot.
Cut the .125" slot and move the table .015" for the return pass.
Bingo, a .140" slot.

This same mill can be used to mill the .1875" inlay mtrl to .140".
This same mill can be used to cut point Vs and square the point mtrl.
This same mill can be used to mill any mtrls that need squared or milled.
This same mill can be used to drill holes.
This same mill can be used to free-up your lathe.
This same mill can be had on Craigs List for about $500 (or less).
I've seen BridgePorts go for about that much.
Floor space a concern? Buy a bench-top.

HTHs, KJ
Click to expand...
Another great point....How do you hold the piece your working on with a mill? How is it indexed?
I can see where a mill would be a usefull piece of equipment in the shop.
Thanks
 
OK, I'll be nice though I'm not usually.
You see that search button at the top of the page?
Had you clicked on that initially, you wouldn't have needed to start this thread.
I've written at length about this topic and even provided pics.
At least 1/2 doz. other CMs have done so as well.
I'll only help someone who's willing to help themselves.

KJ
 
Chuckie,

Sorry I did not post when I said but had a cue show deadline.

Here is some pics of a Atlas lathe that I converted using a Big DC motor to run the lead screw with a a variable speed set up. I hope it helps you in you design thinking. With the big motor can go real slow and has the reserve power and torque to do that. The mounting plate, love joy coupling and the DC motor was over 900.00. I also wired up an E stop so you can't crash it!!! The DC set up I got at Granger.

I have 2 different taper bar set ups and a spring loaded router mount system on this baby and before I got my two saw machines this was my tapering set up.

I have not run this late in a few years but it works perfect.

If anyone is interested give me a call. 847 641-0276

I have been too lazy to put it for sale.

Rick













These are temporary wood taper bar. Aluminum bars can easily be installed. Yes it has a pivoting bar design.

Two different bars can be used up and down with the adjustable roll bearing set up.





Everything is properly hard wired including the E stop.
 
Scratchy said:
I don't know if this will work for you on an Enco, but maybe it will give you some ideas to get started. On my Atlas you can get at the tailstock end of the leadscrew, so I screwed on a coupler nut, then a bolt with toothed pulley. It is driven by a car power window motor which has it's own gear reduction built in. I had a 12 V power supply and bought a cheap PWM board off eBay. By disengaging the main drive on the lead screw and leaving the lathe powered off, I can dial down to virtually a crawl, or run up to around (as I recall) 12 in/min by driving the leadscrew from the tailstock end. Also, the Atlas has 60 index holes in the headstock so I don't need a separate indexer for what I've been doing so far.

Hope it helps -

mac

p.s. FWIW - another 'off the wall' thought I considered was using a live center in the headstock to hold the workpiece. The lathe could run, but would not rotate the work if the tailstock has it well clamped, and you could use the powered leadscrew in normal fashion.
Click to expand...

Where did you get the pulleys from, those look nice and beefy.
Dave
 
great set up...thats what i have in mind.with an added indexer, i would be able to do points and billets too...i bought a 12x24 lathe to do all my joint work, so i can dedicate the big lathe for tapering and such.
Thanks for the pics...great info...thats whats so great about this forum..lots of information and knowledge..
tks again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top