Deep points

[josie]

I am experimenting with cutting in wide points in a forearm and still use a tenon going into the handle. To acheive this I would have to cut really deep points. I will need to cut through the centerline of the forearm to achieve this. If I cut past the centerline of the forearm but only do one point at a time (cut groove and glue up point stock) then procede to the next point, am I going to run into troubles? Basically, at the base of the forearm the points would overlap but be covered over with decorative rings.

Thanks for the info.

 

[qbilder]

You'll be fine like that. You could even do two at a time and bevel the bottom base of the point stock so they fit.

 

[Murray Tucker]

It is more time consuming but you can machine the ends of your point stock so that it fits perfectly into the forearm. I machine half way and glue in 2 points at a time.

Once you joint it to the handle it looks like this

I am experimenting with cutting in wide points in a forearm and still use a tenon going into the handle. To acheive this I would have to cut really deep points. I will need to cut through the centerline of the forearm to achieve this. If I cut past the centerline of the forearm but only do one point at a time (cut groove and glue up point stock) then procede to the next point, am I going to run into troubles? Basically, at the base of the forearm the points would overlap but be covered over with decorative rings.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Mc2]

I am experimenting with cutting in wide points in a forearm and still use a tenon going into the handle. To acheive this I would have to cut really deep points. I will need to cut through the centerline of the forearm to achieve this. If I cut past the centerline of the forearm but only do one point at a time (cut groove and glue up point stock) then procede to the next point, am I going to run into troubles? Basically, at the base of the forearm the points would overlap but be covered over with decorative rings.

Thanks for the info.

Josi, you will want some way to re-index your front. I wold do two at a time as well. You will want to fill in the gap at the back end that is not filled with your point wood. If you cut through the middle or come even close the back end becomes unstable and will brake or move easily. Fill this area in with epoxy or what ever you feel confortable with.

Jim.

 

[josie]

Josi, you will want some way to re-index your front. I wold do two at a time as well. You will want to fill in the gap at the back end that is not filled with your point wood. If you cut through the middle or come even close the back end becomes unstable and will brake or move easily. Fill this area in with epoxy or what ever you feel confortable with.

Jim.

This is why I was thinking of cutting just one at a time, just to keep as much meat as possible and fill the remaing cutout with epoxy and let it cure sitting face up. Thank you guys very much for the input.

 

[dave sutton]

all the guys that do the big points i talk to do 2 then glue it in for stability then the other 2.

murray do you find better results cutting opposite points also. ive heard it both ways

for example cutting across points 1 and 3 then clue then cut 2 and 4

 

[lenoxmjs]

It is more time consuming but you can machine the ends of your point stock so that it fits perfectly into the forearm. I machine half way and glue in 2 points at a time.

Once you joint it to the handle it looks like this

Really nice veneer combo on the second cue. First time I think I've seen those colors used together.

 

[dave sutton]

Looks like holly blue mahogany black. Gus used it alot. One of my favys

 

[macguy]

I am experimenting with cutting in wide points in a forearm and still use a tenon going into the handle. To acheive this I would have to cut really deep points. I will need to cut through the centerline of the forearm to achieve this. If I cut past the centerline of the forearm but only do one point at a time (cut groove and glue up point stock) then procede to the next point, am I going to run into troubles? Basically, at the base of the forearm the points would overlap but be covered over with decorative rings.

Thanks for the info.

You could also consider not cutting the points at 90 degrees. Has anyone else cut points at something other then 90 degrees?