Has Anybody tried this stuff? Just wondering if it lives up to it's claim.
http://www.cuestik.com/cuestik/finditem.cfm?itemid=4696
http://www.cuestik.com/cuestik/finditem.cfm?itemid=4696
Delrin Bond
- Thread starter sliprock
- Start date
Although I haven't tried it, If Atlas sells it, it must work. Anytime I have ever used delrin, I've threaded it and cut cross groves to work as a lock.
Atlas Del Bond
Hey Slip... I got a chance to test some of this stuff; here's what I found. To begin with, I took two 1.00" diameter rods; 1 black delrin & 1 b grade coring dowel. without machining the exterior surfaces, I was able to get the two curved surfaces to bond together. As you should well know, a bond between two curved surfaces is one of the hardest to achieve. I was, however, able to break this bond very easily.
*** Quick side note: I found that this glue takes min. of 30 min. to set and a full 24 hour to cure properly. It must be chemically etching the surfaces before bonding.
Next, I mimicked a buttcap. I cut a .750" dia. x 1.500" long tenon on the wooden dowel & machined the Delrin to .753" id (.003 glue gap is necessary!!!) x 1.00" od x 1.500" length. This creates the proper shoulder for the buttcap to seat against. I tried this set-up with a completely smooth interior wall. It felt really solid after full curing time. I hit it on concrete several times, and then hit the buttcap at an angle (so the corner of the cap strikes the ground). It took ~10-15min. of abuse to get the cap to come off.
Then, I repeated the previous process. However, this time, I put three circumfrencial grooves on the wooden tenon, and cut three slots up the interior wall of the buttcap with a hacksaw blade. After this set-up cured, it took me a whole week of beating the snot out of the delrin before it came loose. At the end of the week, the piece of delrin was so mangled, that I figure that bond to be pretty strong. If anyone's abusing their cue that badly, there isn't a material in the world that would put up with that kind of desecration!
Hey Slip... I got a chance to test some of this stuff; here's what I found. To begin with, I took two 1.00" diameter rods; 1 black delrin & 1 b grade coring dowel. without machining the exterior surfaces, I was able to get the two curved surfaces to bond together. As you should well know, a bond between two curved surfaces is one of the hardest to achieve. I was, however, able to break this bond very easily.
*** Quick side note: I found that this glue takes min. of 30 min. to set and a full 24 hour to cure properly. It must be chemically etching the surfaces before bonding.
Next, I mimicked a buttcap. I cut a .750" dia. x 1.500" long tenon on the wooden dowel & machined the Delrin to .753" id (.003 glue gap is necessary!!!) x 1.00" od x 1.500" length. This creates the proper shoulder for the buttcap to seat against. I tried this set-up with a completely smooth interior wall. It felt really solid after full curing time. I hit it on concrete several times, and then hit the buttcap at an angle (so the corner of the cap strikes the ground). It took ~10-15min. of abuse to get the cap to come off.
Then, I repeated the previous process. However, this time, I put three circumfrencial grooves on the wooden tenon, and cut three slots up the interior wall of the buttcap with a hacksaw blade. After this set-up cured, it took me a whole week of beating the snot out of the delrin before it came loose. At the end of the week, the piece of delrin was so mangled, that I figure that bond to be pretty strong. If anyone's abusing their cue that badly, there isn't a material in the world that would put up with that kind of desecration!
Next, I mimicked a buttcap. I cut a .750" dia. x 1.500" long tenon on the wooden dowel & machined the Delrin to .753" id (.003 glue gap is necessary!!!) x 1.00" od x 1.500" length. This creates the proper shoulder for the buttcap to seat against. I tried this set-up with a completely smooth interior wall. It felt really solid after full curing time. I hit it on concrete several times, and then hit the buttcap at an angle (so the corner of the cap strikes the ground). It took ~10-15min. of abuse to get the cap to come off.
Thanks. That's great to know.
I still rather leave the hole at .720" or so and thread it.
That, you'd have to break the threads AND the epoxy to move the buttcap.
I don't know at what temperature Delrin bond starts to break down either.
Thanks. That's great to know.
I still rather leave the hole at .720" or so and thread it.
That, you'd have to break the threads AND the epoxy to move the buttcap.
I don't know at what temperature Delrin bond starts to break down either.
Del Bond
Joey-
By threading the cap on you'll only increase the bond strength! When I was testing this glue out, I was only given a 1oz. sample bottle. Apparently Atlas is selling this glue in a 1oz. size... I hope they will bring on a larger bottle, as I used up 1/4 oz. per application! I've been playing around with the idea of using this glue as a primer for clear coat, though it seems to be too "rubbery." Has anyone else used this stuff? What are your opinions???
Joey-
By threading the cap on you'll only increase the bond strength! When I was testing this glue out, I was only given a 1oz. sample bottle. Apparently Atlas is selling this glue in a 1oz. size... I hope they will bring on a larger bottle, as I used up 1/4 oz. per application! I've been playing around with the idea of using this glue as a primer for clear coat, though it seems to be too "rubbery." Has anyone else used this stuff? What are your opinions???
I think it's way too expensive.cheese_ball said:
I'll stick to West System. Atlas sells epoxy finisher as well. 20 minute or 5-minute kind. Can use them as top coat too.
finishing delrin
Joey-
Have you ever succesfully finished a delrin butt cap? I haven't had any luck. On the couple that I've managed to finish well (no bubbles or flashback) the clear coat always peels off really easily within a matter of days... is there some trick you know that I don't?
Joey-
Have you ever succesfully finished a delrin butt cap? I haven't had any luck. On the couple that I've managed to finish well (no bubbles or flashback) the clear coat always peels off really easily within a matter of days... is there some trick you know that I don't?
No, and I won't even try. My mentor has tried for years. He just leaves em undercut and polishes them in level with buttsleeve.cheese_ball said:
I know one maker who still sprays it with lacquer. Yikes!
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Yeah... good advice... The Delrin Bond doesn't work as a primer... it gets all gunked up looking. It's very cloudy, and awfully rubbery. Ah well... it was worth a try.
-C-
-C-
Does it swell? Is it actually causing a compression fit?cheese_ball said:
Tracy
After plenty of personal tests, I have concluded that delrin is really only good for a few things. collets, joint caps, and maybe buttcaps when done correctly, and without finish.
Any use of the material in the compression areas of the cue just seems senseless to me now, besides the gluing and finishing issues, the stuff has a mushy hit, and not very crisp at all, It will stroke the long shots in easily, but It's just a dead/mush feel to me, and harder to read & munipulate some shots with. My shape is'nt always perfect, so I often have to rely on My shot making capabilitys, I tend to atleast have to make atleast one high risk shot to finish a rack on ocasion, sometimes more, so i really feel better with a crisp hit on those shots. It seems like a give in take with that stuff. I sometimes stay in line with out problems, but when I have to dig My way out, I like the crisp hit, so the key for me in the ultimate suited cue for My individual style is most likely something in between, but on the harder side.
Unfortunatly If someone has to use that soft of a hit, Then probably nothing short of a new stroke is going to help them anyway, unless there is also alot of wood on wood contact possibly, because your always giving up one thing for another when making changes until you get that perfect taylored hit for the individual style, and delrin just seems to give too much up for too little in return, but everyone is different, so who knows. Alot of changes can be made in the joint, inserts and ferrule to tweak a cue, without the use of delrin.
Mp is plenty soft enough, yet not too soft like delrin, and glues better IMO. I Have a cue that I used it in the joint of, and I'm having a hard time holding on to, because so many like the feel of it and try to talk us out of it. I know why so many people take to the feel of It, and it feels alright to me, but If I get away from the steel I like to shoot with, I think I would want something alittle harder like linen.
Does anyone know what an equivalent of MP ivory, but in black would be? Obviously delrin is what I'm looking for, maybe a MP ebony
Greg
Any use of the material in the compression areas of the cue just seems senseless to me now, besides the gluing and finishing issues, the stuff has a mushy hit, and not very crisp at all, It will stroke the long shots in easily, but It's just a dead/mush feel to me, and harder to read & munipulate some shots with. My shape is'nt always perfect, so I often have to rely on My shot making capabilitys, I tend to atleast have to make atleast one high risk shot to finish a rack on ocasion, sometimes more, so i really feel better with a crisp hit on those shots. It seems like a give in take with that stuff. I sometimes stay in line with out problems, but when I have to dig My way out, I like the crisp hit, so the key for me in the ultimate suited cue for My individual style is most likely something in between, but on the harder side.
Unfortunatly If someone has to use that soft of a hit, Then probably nothing short of a new stroke is going to help them anyway, unless there is also alot of wood on wood contact possibly, because your always giving up one thing for another when making changes until you get that perfect taylored hit for the individual style, and delrin just seems to give too much up for too little in return, but everyone is different, so who knows. Alot of changes can be made in the joint, inserts and ferrule to tweak a cue, without the use of delrin.
Mp is plenty soft enough, yet not too soft like delrin, and glues better IMO. I Have a cue that I used it in the joint of, and I'm having a hard time holding on to, because so many like the feel of it and try to talk us out of it. I know why so many people take to the feel of It, and it feels alright to me, but If I get away from the steel I like to shoot with, I think I would want something alittle harder like linen.
Does anyone know what an equivalent of MP ivory, but in black would be? Obviously delrin is what I'm looking for, maybe a MP ebony
Greg
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