density n diameter of tip

loveudear

loveudear

Registered
whats your most comfortable playing diameter?

my preferred density of shaft would b in range btw 4.0oz - 4.3oz with 12.8mm tip.

hate it when cue ball sticks to rail which so diff to keep the cue down =/
its like much easier to play a long distance shot with high density wood.
sometimes i really miss using convectional shafts.

correct me if i m wrong.. convectional shaft with density of 4.2oz offers lower deflection than a 3.6oz shaft?
 
loveudear said:
... correct me if i m wrong.. convectional shaft with density of 4.2oz offers lower deflection than a 3.6oz shaft?
Click to expand...

It depends on the "endmass" of the two shafts. If the heavier shaft is also heavier in the last couple of inches, it probably will produce more cue-ball deflection than the lighter shaft.

But it is possible that the heavier shaft's weight results, for example, from a heavy brass insert in the shaft (as for a piloted joint for a 5/16-14 pin). In that case, the heavier shaft might not produce more squirt than the lighter shaft, because it might not have greater endmass.
 
Last edited:
loveudear said:
whats your most comfortable playing diameter?
Click to expand...

I am currently playing wiht a 11.75mm hard tip and I am thinking of going down to a 11.3mm tip (also hard).

I have never had a problem with the CB sticking to the rail, sure its a bit harder and the spin options are reduced. But a level cue, a deliberate stroke, and careful control wiht the bridge hand brings these shots back to fairly normal.
 
I like this

I like a 12.5 mm hard tip like the Kamui Black Medium. I think all the shaft info gives me a head ache and any good player can shoot good pool with any reasonably good shaft after they get used to it.
 
AtLarge said:
It depends on the "endmass" of the two shafts. If the heavier shaft is also heavier in the last couple of inches, it probably will produce more cue-ball deflection than the lighter shaft.

But it is possible that the heavier shaft's weight results, for example, from a heavy brass insert in the shaft (as for a piloted joint for a 5/16-14 pin). In that case, the heavier shaft might not produce more squirt than the lighter shaft, because it might not have greater endmass.
Click to expand...

yes!!! tt wat i m trying to say =/ endmass n cue shaft squirt..

i nv like a shaft tt whips like mad while playing long distance n force follow thru.. i always have to reduce amt of strto pot n move cb around table =/ sadly i m just poor player with lousy strokes..

i assume most high tech shafts is in range of 3.5 to 3.8oz(12.5 - 12.75mm tip)
i test hit on 312^2 , ob1, hp2, zeroflex point, bs 158.. preferred conical taper shaft..
 
MitchAlsup said:
I am currently playing wiht a 11.75mm hard tip and I am thinking of going down to a 11.3mm tip (also hard).

I have never had a problem with the CB sticking to the rail, sure its a bit harder and the spin options are reduced. But a level cue, a deliberate stroke, and careful control wiht the bridge hand brings these shots back to fairly normal.
Click to expand...

balance of cue is very impt. we need some to suit our playing style or stroke. i prefer something in range of 19-19^ 1/4 with natural or forward balance.. i usually find a cue to cover up my weak shots or mayb improve them =/

yeah bridge hand on rail is a pain in the axx... especially i need a closed bridge lol
i sux in those shots..

11.3mm~~~! damn u must b loving those spins with precised potting shots..
was hoping i could play a 11.75mm tip but my stroke doesnt allow me =(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top