Diagnose my break problems (videos)

td873

C is for Cookie
Gold Member
Silver Member
Do you have any videos with the full view? It's hard to tell what your mechanics are without them.

What is your break speed? You can get the break speed app to calculate it. It's not critical to break hard, but it helps to understand where you are in terms of ability to break.

Also, you should check out Dr. Dave's review of Shane's break on youtube. That is one way you can diagnose things yourself.

-td
 

mchnhed

I Came, I Shot, I Choked
Silver Member
I've also had a long-time problem with my cue ball coming back towards me after I break.
Any suggestions appreciated.
 
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BRussell

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Do you have any videos with the full view? It's hard to tell what your mechanics are without them.

What is your break speed? You can get the break speed app to calculate it. It's not critical to break hard, but it helps to understand where you are in terms of ability to break.

Also, you should check out Dr. Dave's review of Shane's break on youtube. That is one way you can diagnose things yourself.

-td

Good idea, here's another one with the full view. I've used the break speed app before and my typical break is around 18 mph.

https://youtu.be/QVHSmy_hY8o
 

BRussell

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If you hit dead center cue ball and the one ball full...it's supposed to come back.

Right, but you want the cue ball to stay in the middle, which is why you want to hit the cue ball above center.
 

pt109

WO double hemlock
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Silver Member

peter_gunn

])3a]) s']['rok3
Silver Member
Majority of Shane's break have little top spin in it

Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk
 

BRussell

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member

medallio

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think this is the one case where you need to elevate your cue. Still aim a hair above center though
 

pt109

WO double hemlock
Gold Member
Silver Member
My typical outcome is for the cue ball to be near the head rail, as if I had tried to lag. I want it to stay more in the middle of the table.

A good rule to follow at pool is the same as playing golf...do not sacrifice accuracy.

If you're breaking 18 mph and your cue ball is too close to the end rail....
...you aren't hitting dead center cue ball.

Don't compensate for a problem....fix it.....accuracy starts at the cue ball.
 

M.G.

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
- Shorten bridge
- Use less force/power/muscle - add speed (not power!) later on
- Stop scooping and just go straight through
- Try to hit slightly below center for a stop ball shot / very slight draw
- Start with CB on the line, 2 balls to the right of center and work your way from that
- Hit first ball of triangle at around 45 degrees. White shall go to long rail, bounce and be somewhere in the middle of the table.

Cheers!
 

strmanglr scott

All about Focus
Silver Member
Imho..

Shorten bridge length to ob.

Raise your bridge/cue slightly to help eliminate the scoop.

Looks like your pretty down on the break, maybe a little more upright. Easier follow through.
 

td873

C is for Cookie
Gold Member
Silver Member
Wrong.....any spin on the cue ball is wasting energy that should be forward motion.
I think this was the general understanding years ago when "power" on the break mattered more. Now, with the magic rack, it's more about repeatable consistent breaks. You will have extra "energy" to impart spin to the cue ball, i.e., putting a hair of top spin to get the ball to squat. It won't impact your results otherwise. As a practical point, you might lose .1 or .2 MPH with a small amount of spin on the cue ball. If you are trying to break at 20MPH, this is well within any margin of control. At 22 MPH, it's not even rounding error.

I would rather someone break at 20MPH every time regardless of spin imparted - then you can start to work on the control part

-td
 

pt109

WO double hemlock
Gold Member
Silver Member
I think this was the general understanding years ago when "power" on the break mattered more. Now, with the magic rack, it's more about repeatable consistent breaks. You will have extra "energy" to impart spin to the cue ball, i.e., putting a hair of top spin to get the ball to squat. It won't impact your results otherwise. As a practical point, you might lose .1 or .2 MPH with a small amount of spin on the cue ball. If you are trying to break at 20MPH, this is well within any margin of control. At 22 MPH, it's not even rounding error.

I would rather someone break at 20MPH every time regardless of spin imparted - then you can start to work on the control part

-td

Cut breaking is a totally new area....I was only referring to the dead ball break.
 

Coop1701

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Due to your bridge length I think you are brushing over the top of the cueball. Good follow through. But way to high to make the cueball pop the one ball.

I still prefer the right side break. I start about inch to the left of the diamond.

When I break that way I always get the wing ball and typically the one goes in the side. If you wanna keep breaking from the center. It’s fine. I suggest working on controlling the ball by hitting a half tip below center. Once you get it to pop and stay. Then slowly add more power. Breaking is more about control than raw energy transfer.
 

td873

C is for Cookie
Gold Member
Silver Member
Good idea, here's another one with the full view. I've used the break speed app before and my typical break is around 18 mph.

https://youtu.be/QVHSmy_hY8o
Here's a quick tip I give people. Choke up on the cue. Don't have your back hand parallel to the ground at the set position - no 90 degree position. It should be like 45 degrees or so (you'll have to experiment). One reason for this is that the cue has not reached maximum speed at the 90 degree spot. So just a little more room can add a few "free" MPH. I had a student go up 20% in just a few breaks by choking up on the cue.

[edit: at the set position, move your hand up to where your forearm and handle meet. Then break and see if it's faster]

-td
 
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