My main shooter is a Predator P2 with a 314-2 that is 20.5 ounces but I have recently been using a friends custom Dale Perry with an OB1 shaft that is 17.3 ounces. I do like the way that the OB1 hits, and I also like how the 314-2 hits, that being said though how much of a difference is there in the weight difference as far as control, feel, feedback etc goes? Are the any advantages/disadvantages to shooting with a heavier or lighter cue? I am looking forward to trying out an OB1 on my P2 to see if it still feels basically the same, have also been considering lowering the weight on my stick to about 18.5-19. Any advice/opinions are very welcome, thanks.
DIfferent cue weights
- Thread starter NickS923
- Start date
Higher skilled players typically prefer lighter weight cues. They provide more cue ball control, but tend to take more skill to stroke well. Higher weights provide stability and are better for lower skilled players. 19 is a standard weight in general. Most people I know go between 18-19oz, although there seems to be a big movement with even lighter cues. I'd say go with 18-19oz, you can't go wrong. Whatever feels better to you is most important but I think becoming accustomed to a lighter weight will serve you better in the long run.
I had bought a new cue and it was 20 oz. A player seen I had a different cue and asked to try it. He hit a few balls and said it looks nice but was too light for him. He liked cues around 19.5 or heavier.
Another time I had a cue that weighed 18.9oz. Another player told me that it was too heavy and that he could only play with cues that weighed 19 oz.
Truth is a lot of times it just depends on how the cue is balanced and the how the weight is distributed.
Something that I have discovered is hardly anyone knows the true weight or shaft size of the cue that they are selling. It surprises me with all the cues being sold on this forum that very few use a scale or caliper to measure what they have. There are very few cues that I have bought that were the correct weight and shaft size. Every cue that I have bought were advertised to be 19 oz and 13 mm. Not one is on the money. They range from 18.2 to 20.5 oz and 12.5 to 13.18 mm. If a cue comes with 2 shafts there will also be a weight difference. The only cues that I have that has 2 shafts exactly the same are my Gilbert and Kikel
My other cues, SW, Bender, Gina, RC3, Weston (Perry and Skip) Layani, Jensen, Lambros, CK, and Schon.
Another time I had a cue that weighed 18.9oz. Another player told me that it was too heavy and that he could only play with cues that weighed 19 oz.
Truth is a lot of times it just depends on how the cue is balanced and the how the weight is distributed.
Something that I have discovered is hardly anyone knows the true weight or shaft size of the cue that they are selling. It surprises me with all the cues being sold on this forum that very few use a scale or caliper to measure what they have. There are very few cues that I have bought that were the correct weight and shaft size. Every cue that I have bought were advertised to be 19 oz and 13 mm. Not one is on the money. They range from 18.2 to 20.5 oz and 12.5 to 13.18 mm. If a cue comes with 2 shafts there will also be a weight difference. The only cues that I have that has 2 shafts exactly the same are my Gilbert and Kikel
My other cues, SW, Bender, Gina, RC3, Weston (Perry and Skip) Layani, Jensen, Lambros, CK, and Schon.
What you describe is very true. Rarely does a cue come in at the advertised weight.
I had a Randy Mobley cue that was exact. Also, the two shafts were exact because he matched them based on weight. I've had other cues in the past where the shafts vary by quite a bit. You can feel the difference using them. With production cues, you just have the weigh the shafts. The best is to find a dealer that has a large inventory. That's rare but it's the best way. You can check each shaft for taper roll, weigh each one as well as measure each joint for best fit to your cue. And also choose ones with the cleanest maple if you're anal about aesthetics. That's the best way to get a set of matching shafts.
The ferrule size doesn't bother me. As long as the taper is the same between two shafts. There are shafts with 13mm ferrules that are thinner than shafts with 12.75mm ferrules because the 13mm carried thinner for much longer down the shaft whereas some 12.x mm shafts taper opens up faster.
It's about consistency. Weight and taper. These are things you do feel. When they vary, you notice. Differences are distracting. That is why there is always a quest to find a brand of tip that is consistent. So that two shafts can play as close to one another as possible to the point that it is hard to tell apart or that you can't tell them apart.
Because hardly anyone knows what their cue really weights, I always find pool hall commentary amusing. I have an 18.5oz cue which is exact. Weighed by an expensive and accurate scale. Some people hold it and tell me it's a 17oz, others think it's a 19.5. Their judgment is skewed because what they play with is different from what they thought they bought.
Very true on all points. Most of the sellers don't know squat, even some of them that swap buy/sell cues on a regular basis. Try to get a little info and it must be to much trouble or they have no means of giving accurate information, buyer beware.
In terms of weight, its the weight you can accelerate with accuracy. In my case about an 8th of an ounce on either side of 19oz. How the cue is balanced can make a difference as mentioned. In general I like the balance point near 18 1/2 inches. Its important to establish what works for the individual. Then you have a solid basis when you order a cue or have a custom made. Of course there are other factors like shaft size, taper etc but I'm just speaking of weight since that was asked.
Rod
weight of my cue
old school was the heaver the better , there has been books that would tell you heavy cue would help you have a better stroke . i have played
with a 20 oz joss for a while and as i would practice i seemed that i was
not improving . the first thing that come to mind try lighter cue.
removed rubber bumper took out 1 1/2 oz allen set screw . do the math
18 1/2 brought my game up one ball at the least.that moved ballance
point forward 1 inch . it was much better . i to now think a lighter cue
is better as it was said in this thread , 18-19 is most popular. read
all the players poll. a lot of 18-19 very few 20s. i think 19 is the #1 pick.
take care , johnqbs:anderson sc
old school was the heaver the better , there has been books that would tell you heavy cue would help you have a better stroke . i have played
with a 20 oz joss for a while and as i would practice i seemed that i was
not improving . the first thing that come to mind try lighter cue.
removed rubber bumper took out 1 1/2 oz allen set screw . do the math
18 1/2 brought my game up one ball at the least.that moved ballance
point forward 1 inch . it was much better . i to now think a lighter cue
is better as it was said in this thread , 18-19 is most popular. read
all the players poll. a lot of 18-19 very few 20s. i think 19 is the #1 pick.
take care , johnqbs:anderson sc