Now Moori has started putting each of their tips in a little sealed pack that says Moori on it. This has only been recently done and I would say if your tip says Moori III and either S, Q, or M and Glue Side on the other side it is not a fake, just older stock. Some people were passing off Hercules tips with the gold M on them as Moori tips, saying the M stood for Moori. Fakes are very rare, but to stop the public distrust I think Moori did the right thing by putting the tips in the sealed blister packs like gum and stuff come in. It also keeps them air tight so the shelf life is increased.Eviltuner said:May I ask how do I differentiate real moori from the fake ones? Cos I am thinking of getting one for my cue as the tip on my current cue is le pro.
Eviltuner said:From my understanding, I heard even with the new packaging pirate copies of the packaging had already surfaced and penertrated into the current market. I seriously don't know how much truth is there on this. But is there a fool proof way of proving the authencity of the tips?
Eviltuner said:May I ask how do I differentiate real moori from the fake ones? Cos I am thinking of getting one for my cue as the tip on my current cue is le pro.
Andrew Manning said:Well, you could start with the old rule of thumb: multiply the coefficient by the exponent, and then decrement the exponent. But really there's a lot more to differentiation than polynomial expressions of a single variable, and an internet forum isn't really the right medium for teaching calculus.
Oh wait, that was a smart-ass answer, and you wanted a real one. I agree with 8ballEinstein, a reputable cue worker is more qualified to spot a bad tip than you are, and more qualified to do a top-notch tip installation, so why not just find one and trust them? I'm still playing with a talisman I got Purdman to install for me a year and a half ago, and it's still got some life in it yet!
-Andrew