Difficult Shot On The 1B - Kinister
- Thread starter DrCue'sProtege
- Start date
for me since i practice stop shots alot
i start with how would i hit a stop shot
tip placement and power level
i then raise my tip placement according to how much forward drift i want
i hope i have explained myself ok
Tip placement and power level are the two factors that control this - you can change either or both to achieve a stop shot at a shorter distance (= rollthrough): slightly higher tip placement at the same speed, slightly less power with the same tip placement, or some of each.
pj
chgo
Thanks. I shot it several times with drag draw and got good on the 2 each time. Then I tried a firmer stun and roll shot with inconsistent results. I suppose it depends on which shot you have the most/best experience and feel when shooting.
Not to be critical of the shot you shot --- just being picky --- If I were teaching someone that shot I would recommend shooting it lower and softer. I like to shoot that shot with maximum backspin and then control the speed. You lost control of the cue ball just a bit when I think it rolled a bit farther than you needed.
Just to add: I consider that shot a finesse shot; and finesse shots are mostly shot with more than a tip away from center.
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I think it would be a good idea to have the student shoot it several ways to see what might feel or work best naturally with their specific stroke. The drag draw is a feel shot, using just the right amount of spin and speed to make it work like you envision, and I'm sure for every player that hits it lower and softer there is a player that prefers hitting it a little firmer with less spin.
Anyhow, I feel like if I shot it any softer I may as well just roll it with no draw at all, just a straight floater. But that's me. It's definitely a tricky little shot if you don't have a good feel for it. If I were to shoot it 10 times I'm sure I'd always get the shape, but I'm also sure I'd drift a little farther than I want a time or two, or a little more sideways than I'd like a time or two. But my goal is to get a shot on the proper side of the 2. If it's not perfect I'm not disappointed. If it is perfect I'm not giddy. This isn't the kind of shot one needs to be perfect on.....just getting a shot on the 2 that leads to the 3 is all you need. :thumbup:
I tried it softer and lower. No good for me. But after shooting it about a dozen times just straight rolling into the one, I had great consistency and excellent control.
I shot slightly above center to get the cb rolling. Not really a slow roll. Here's how firm I hit it: When I move the one and shoot the cb into the end rail at the same speed, it bounces back to about one diamond past the side pocket on the same side of the table where the cb started.
I think you're spot on when you say you'd need to set these "what would you do" shots up in order to truly answer how you'd play it. Great advice.
for me the drag draw "finesse shot " is way more difficult to control
than the stun follow
if you can hit a stop shot get down to shoot it and raise your tip 1/2 to 1 tip
easier for me to shoot then trying to get the draw to fail at a certain pint
i am not an instructor
jmho
icbw
I think I would drag-follow more easily at a long distance. I only feel comfortable with a firm stop-follow at close distances. But I think I’d need to play with it some in the near future.
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Me too. I have finer control of my stroke speed than my tip placement. The exception is when the OB is close - then I'll hit higher so I don't have to baby my stroke.
pj
chgo
Yup. I hear you. Having worked with hundreds of players, one-on-one over the years, I have a unique glimpse into the mindset of players regarding different types of shots, and I have a pretty good idea of where you're coming from.
Just keep this in mind: Knowing how to apply maximum backspin and controlling the speed is a huge weapon for your arsenal of shots. In order to accomplish this, your cue stick must travel back and forth on the exact same plane without deviation. Whatever angle of attack you choose, you must keep from beginning to end. That means no 'dipping' into the cb the last second before impact. The cb will jump if a player does that. (I'm not saying that you do that, but it's a common issue.)
Another issue in applying maximum backspin is a players ability to accept scraping the cloth with their cue stick. It can't be avoided and cloths are meant to endure it at a reasonable angle of attack.
If you're not used to using it, maximum backspin will take you right out of your comfort zone. But don't give up on it. Learn it and learn to like it. It's worth it. Believe me.
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Exactly. Me too.
thanks for the advice fran
I use max back spin when needed, usually on shots that are closer than 3 or 4 feet and I need a lot of draw without shooting firm. I'll have to practice that long drag shot using max spin and softer hit in order to figure out when it could be useful for me.
Thanks for the idea/advice.
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Play more one pocket. The need to control both CB and OB speed teaches a lot about "slow shape".
pj <- 1P wannabe
chgo
I play more one hole than anything else. Max spin shots with slow spin are great a beautiful thing. I don't have a problem with that. But I don't typically shoot a long shot with max draw at soft speed, not when a slightly above center roll will give the same results, and more consistently, for me anyway. I prefer not to use excessive spin unless it's absolutely neccessary.