I'm trying hard to keep up here,
is "50 Durometer" a certain type of facing? I'm having my GC3 done now with new SuperSpeed & can't afford extending sub rails. My pockets are (loose 5") & I would like to tighten them yup a bit. Is a 50 Dorometer 1/4" facing what I'm looking for? I don't know about this stuff & would really like to be able to tell the installer what I want. Thanks for any help.
Google 50 Durometer neoprene pocket facings. Durometer is basically hardness level.I'm trying hard to keep up here,
Thank you, so a 50 is softer than a 60 & I should get 50? Sorry for being such a novice but I'm ready to drop these rails off tomorrow & really don't want to get it wrong
As stated above, "durormeter" is a hardness rating for rubber. Standard is 60, 50 is softer.I'm trying hard to keep up here,
Because the facings are so thick (1/4" is about the thickest you'd want to go), you want a less dense facing to try and mitigate the dead pocket factor. Another thing to consider is the geometry of the stock pocket cut. Generally speaking, you want to decrease the angle of the pocket opening when you tighten the pocket. Depending on the table and how the pockets are cut, tightening the pocket without adjusting the angle cut could result in a pocket that consistently rattles balls down the rail. I understand cost is a factor but you may not be satisfied with how the pockets play with the thicker facings. What is your mechanic quoting you on the subrail extensions?Thank you, so a 50 is softer than a 60 & I should get 50? Sorry for being such a novice but I'm ready to drop these rails off tomorrow & really don't want to get it wrong
50 is softer. I usually hear people using 60 durometer but I'm not a mechanic. I used 60 when re-doing my olhausen and it worked fine. To be honest with you I doubt you're going to notice a difference between 50 and 60.Thank you, so a 50 is softer than a 60 & I should get 50? Sorry for being such a novice but I'm ready to drop these rails off tomorrow & really don't want to get it wrong
I don't know the cost of sub-rail ext. I'm not a pro player. I just feel that 5" pocket are too loose & I'd like tighten it up a smidg without $$$$ getting crazy.
Maybe you should ask. You're already putting new rubber on and the Gold Crown III rails do not require the bevel be adjusted for more K55 rubber. The additional cost to properly tighten the pockets maybe within reason. You don't have to be a pro player to appreciate a table that plays properly. Your rationale can also bring to question your choice of table. I mean, if you're not a pro, why buy a pro level table?
OK, what do you suppose subrail extensions would add to the cost of a GC3 install? Ish???
Honestly, I'm not sure what just the subrail extensions would add in your neck of the woods. I paid $1,500 for the rail work on my Gold Crown I by the top mechanic in CA (possibly the entire West Coast) I but that included the rubber, subrail bevel adjustment and subrail extensions. It certainly doesn't hurt to ask your mechanic what the upcharge is. There's an outside shot he doesn't do that type of work as not every mechanic does.
Unless you're stacking those 1/4" facing on top of the factory 1/8" facings, you're going to need facings thicker than a 1/4" to reduce factory 5" to 4 1/2". Softer than 60 durometer is also going to give the pocket a really lively bounce off the facings as well. Gabriel's uses 3/8" 60 durometer facings, and the points of the pockets wear through on every pocket because of that!
So with 1/4" facings I should get about a 4 3/4" pocket? That sounds perfect to me. Thanks again.