do the pros outweigh the cons when using quality shaft wax?

sbrownn

Registered
Did some searching here and many seem to like wood shaft waxes like Renaissance, Longoni, Molinari and others. Some have reported the wax melting or getting sticky in warm conditions. Others say it is expensive (first two I mentioned) to very expensive (Molinari). Others have said they don't like the odor (first one I mentioned).

I have played with maple wood (non-LD) shafts for for over 40 years and never used a shaft wax before. I wipe the chalk off my tips before putting away my cues after playing using a clean dry paper napkin. For shaft cleaning, I use a magic eraser sheet (sometimes with 90% alcohol or white gas) and finish with the green side of the Q-Wiz. If I need a deep clean, I use 800 sandpaper on the shaft.

Should I give it a try? Longoni seems like the first one I try, given its price point, no smell and similar to Renaissance but not as hard. If I did get some, I recently bought a kielwood shaft that has a very tight fitting threaded insert on all of my 3/8x10 joint pins (some modified, some not). Can I use Longoni wax there also to help the threading issue? Will I get any chalk dust or dirt gathering there or on any of the shafts I apply it on if I go with the Longoni?

TIA
 
Last edited:
Absolutely. Make sure the wax is colorless.

I put wax that had a hint of green color on a shaft and didn't think anything of it but it looks greenish depending on the lighting.
 
Don’t even bother with the other stuff…….Rennaissance is the best product available in the USA.

The only product equal, or better, is Craftsman Cue Wax from Birmingham, England which is hard
to get. I tried becoming a USA distributor but Craftsman didn’t appear interested in the USA market.
 
Don’t even bother with the other stuff…….Rennaissance is the best product available in the USA.

The only product equal, or better, is Craftsman Cue Wax from Birmingham, England which is hard
to get. I tried becoming a USA distributor but Craftsman didn’t appear interested in the USA market.
Can I use Renaissance on my joint pin to try to "open up" that new kielwood shaft with the insert without any dirt / chalk dust collection or other issues? I would hate to have the threads of shafts "mucked up"...
 
I've got two shafts that have been treated with Longoni wood shaft wax and love the results and haven't been around any shafts treated with Rennaisssance wax to compare the two , with that said I can only go back to what Mike Gulyassy mentioned was that he used Longoni shaft wax with satisfactory results so that's good enough for me until I can try any others .
 
Last edited:
Can I use Renaissance on my joint pin to try to "open up" that new kielwood shaft with the insert without any dirt / chalk dust collection or other issues? I would hate to have the threads of shafts "mucked up"...
I’d use a a wet Qtip to start cleaning and then lightly coat a clean one with Vaseline Petroleum Jelly and twist it inside.

I have bug pin wood joint cues so the threads are only wood. I do it oeriodically to clean the core and always lightly reapply the Vaseline.
 
I’d use a a wet Qtip to start cleaning and then lightly coat a clean one with Vaseline Petroleum Jelly and twist it inside.

I have bug pin wood joint cues so the threads are only wood. I do it oeriodically to clean the core and always lightly reapply the Vaseline.
Yes, all of my 8 other 3/8x10 shafts have wood only. This new kielwood has an insert like some of the McDermott 3/8x10 I shafts.
 
I use Mother's Carnauba wax.

The trick is the put it on thick, and let it dry/cure for a full hour or more before wiping it off with multiple cloth towels and a final paper towel buff then 3 strokes on the talc cube.

I only do this about twice a year when/after the shaft gets/needs a good cleaning.
 
Did some searching here and many seem to like wood shaft waxes like Renaissance, Longoni, Molinari and others. Some have reported the wax melting or getting sticky in warm conditions. Others say it is expensive (first two I mentioned) to very expensive (Molinari). Others have said they don't like the odor (first one I mentioned).

I have played with maple wood (non-LD) shafts for for over 40 years and never used a shaft wax before. I wipe the chalk off my tips before putting away my cues after playing using a clean dry paper napkin. For shaft cleaning, I use a magic eraser sheet (sometimes with 90% alcohol or white gas) and finish with the green side of the Q-Wiz. If I need a deep clean, I use 800 sandpaper on the shaft.

Should I give it a try? Longoni seems like the first one I try, given its price point, no smell and similar to Renaissance but not as hard. If I did get some, I recently bought a kielwood shaft that has a very tight fitting threaded insert on all of my 3/8x10 joint pins (some modified, some not). Can I use Longoni wax there also to help the threading issue? Will I get any chalk dust or dirt gathering there or on any of the shafts I apply it on if I go with the Longoni?

TIA
I tried but wasn’t crazy about Renaissance, which I felt built up on the shaft after a while, making it stickier. I prefer 3000 grit sandpaper and occasionally wipe it down / clean it off with some isopropyl alcohol on a cloth.
 
Did some searching here and many seem to like wood shaft waxes like Renaissance, Longoni, Molinari and others. Some have reported the wax melting or getting sticky in warm conditions. Others say it is expensive (first two I mentioned) to very expensive (Molinari). Others have said they don't like the odor (first one I mentioned).

I have played with maple wood (non-LD) shafts for for over 40 years and never used a shaft wax before. I wipe the chalk off my tips before putting away my cues after playing using a clean dry paper napkin. For shaft cleaning, I use a magic eraser sheet (sometimes with 90% alcohol or white gas) and finish with the green side of the Q-Wiz. If I need a deep clean, I use 800 sandpaper on the shaft.

Should I give it a try? Longoni seems like the first one I try, given its price point, no smell and similar to Renaissance but not as hard. If I did get some, I recently bought a kielwood shaft that has a very tight fitting threaded insert on all of my 3/8x10 joint pins (some modified, some not). Can I use Longoni wax there also to help the threading issue? Will I get any chalk dust or dirt gathering there or on any of the shafts I apply it on if I go with the Longoni?

TIA
I think the cueman has always had the best cleaner and cue wax.
Did some searching here and many seem to like wood shaft waxes like Renaissance, Longoni, Molinari and others. Some have reported the wax melting or getting sticky in warm conditions. Others say it is expensive (first two I mentioned) to very expensive (Molinari). Others have said they don't like the odor (first one I mentioned).

I have played with maple wood (non-LD) shafts for for over 40 years and never used a shaft wax before. I wipe the chalk off my tips before putting away my cues after playing using a clean dry paper napkin. For shaft cleaning, I use a magic eraser sheet (sometimes with 90% alcohol or white gas) and finish with the green side of the Q-Wiz. If I need a deep clean, I use 800 sandpaper on the shaft.

Should I give it a try? Longoni seems like the first one I try, given its price point, no smell and similar to Renaissance but not as hard. If I did get some, I recently bought a kielwood shaft that has a very tight fitting threaded insert on all of my 3/8x10 joint pins (some modified, some not). Can I use Longoni wax there also to help the threading issue? Will I get any chalk dust or dirt gathering there or on any of the shafts I apply it on if I go with the Longoni?

TIA
I think the cue man has always had the best cleaner and wax. Bar none.
 
Can I use Renaissance on my joint pin to try to "open up" that new kielwood shaft with the insert without any dirt / chalk dust collection or other issues? I would hate to have the threads of shafts "mucked up"...
Use a bit of bar soap.
 
I think the cueman has always had the best cleaner and cue wax.

I think the cue man has always had the best cleaner and wax. Bar none.
that's just basic carnuba wax. any wax of this type will work. i've used QWax in the past and it works fine.
 
Bowling alley wax that you can purchase from Ace Hardware works well and is cheaper than dirt. Often isn't on the shelf but you can order it if you ask. I have found any real wax to get a little sticky sometimes in the high humidity of South Louisiana. A few fast strokes with paper or cloth to build a little heat restores the shaft to the slick as glass feeling I prefer.

Hu
 
Bowling alley wax that you can purchase from Ace Hardware works well and is cheaper than dirt. Often isn't on the shelf but you can order it if you ask. I have found any real wax to get a little sticky sometimes in the high humidity of South Louisiana. A few fast strokes with paper or cloth to build a little heat restores the shaft to the slick as glass feeling I prefer.

Hu
In really humid/sticky places a clean shaft and a good cheap glove works great. In Tulsa from late May til October its 'glove season'.
 
Bowling alley wax that you can purchase from Ace Hardware works well and is cheaper than dirt. Often isn't on the shelf but you can order it if you ask. I have found any real wax to get a little sticky sometimes in the high humidity of South Louisiana. A few fast strokes with paper or cloth to build a little heat restores the shaft to the slick as glass feeling I prefer.

Hu
Thank you. I will consider this.
 
I tried but wasn’t crazy about Renaissance, which I felt built up on the shaft after a while, making it stickier. I prefer 3000 grit sandpaper and occasionally wipe it down / clean it off with some isopropyl alcohol on a cloth.
As a woodworker and someone that worked with chemists that actually studied and formulated waxes, I don't subscribe to the Renaissance wax is best. As I had some of it around and many other waxes for that matter I tried it on my shafts and wasn't really impressed. Not only that, but I tried it on my wood rails of my pool table and it was horrible. Nothing but greasy smudgy fingerprints all over. Table looked horrible. I'm sure it was fine if you didn't touch it, but not right for use on a pool table. I then tried some Johnsons paste wax, better but still not the best. I then decided to try Meguires Carnauba car wax. Perfect, not only for the table but also shafts, virtually no fingerprinting, well except when my wife plays as she has sweaty hands.
Every wax is probably good for something, just not the best at everything. Waxes are formulated for different needs, if their best use aligns with how you intend to use it, great, but just because some manufacture says its wax is best because this or that museum recommends it is just puffing for sales.
Table wood.jpg
 
As a woodworker and someone that worked with chemists that actually studied and formulated waxes, I don't subscribe to the Renaissance wax is best. As I had some of it around and many other waxes for that matter I tried it on my shafts and wasn't really impressed. Not only that, but I tried it on my wood rails of my pool table and it was horrible. Nothing but greasy smudgy fingerprints all over. Table looked horrible. I'm sure it was fine if you didn't touch it, but not right for use on a pool table. I then tried some Johnsons paste wax, better but still not the best. I then decided to try Meguires Carnauba car wax. Perfect, not only for the table but also shafts, virtually no fingerprinting, well except when my wife plays as she has sweaty hands.
Every wax is probably good for something, just not the best at everything. Waxes are formulated for different needs, if their best use aligns with how you intend to use it, great, but just because some manufacture says its wax is best because this or that museum recommends it is just puffing for sales.
View attachment 818108

I researched waxes years ago, thought I would seek the best. Then I found many waxes costing over $100 an ounce! So much for experimentation.

Hu
 
As a woodworker and someone that worked with chemists that actually studied and formulated waxes, I don't subscribe to the Renaissance wax is best. As I had some of it around and many other waxes for that matter I tried it on my shafts and wasn't really impressed. Not only that, but I tried it on my wood rails of my pool table and it was horrible. Nothing but greasy smudgy fingerprints all over. Table looked horrible. I'm sure it was fine if you didn't touch it, but not right for use on a pool table. I then tried some Johnsons paste wax, better but still not the best. I then decided to try Meguires Carnauba car wax. Perfect, not only for the table but also shafts, virtually no fingerprinting, well except when my wife plays as she has sweaty hands.
Every wax is probably good for something, just not the best at everything. Waxes are formulated for different needs, if their best use aligns with how you intend to use it, great, but just because some manufacture says its wax is best because this or that museum recommends it is just puffing for sales.
View attachment 818108
Looks freaking fantastic.
 
Back
Top