do the pros outweigh the cons when using quality shaft wax?

Fatboy said:
Surf board wax. It’s an old product, in the early 80’s when I was high school people used to wear Mr Zogs tee shirts. It was a thing. I never had one.

Fatboy<———never learned to surf
Click to expand...
Same as Charlie>>>>>>... GoldCrown Doesn't Surf
 
Last edited:
garczar said:
SexWax is designed to 'INCREASE' traction on a surfboard. No way you'd put it on a cue.
Click to expand...
Yep.

For those who don't know, you wax the TOP of the surfboard, where your feet are. Never wax the bottom of a surfboard. The wax comes in a variety of different hardnesses, depending on how cold the water is. You build up a layer of "wax bumps" on top of the board, and leave them there. You do not buff it smooth. Plenty of videos on the subject.

You can clean off the old wax, by letting the board sit out in the sun for a few minutes, so the wax gets soft, and then scraping it off with a credit card. But first, you have to find someone who has a credit card, because surfers are usually as broke as pool players.
 
Banger said:
Yep.

For those who don't know, you wax the TOP of the surfboard, where your feet are. Never wax the bottom of a surfboard. The wax comes in a variety of different hardnesses, depending on how cold the water is. You build up a layer of "wax bumps" on top of the board, and leave them there. You do not buff it smooth. Plenty of videos on the subject.

You can clean off the old wax, by letting the board sit out in the sun for a few minutes, so the wax gets soft, and then scraping it off with a credit card. But first, you have to find someone who has a credit card, because surfers are usually as broke as pool players.
Click to expand...

I tried surfing when I was visiting my brother in Hawaii back in the early seventies. The surfing wax gripped tightly enough to feel like it would rip the hide off of my torso when laying down and trying to get up.

Another area to find quality wax might be aviation wax. Many years ago I had some that claimed to make you fly up to nine percent faster! I put it on my dirt car. It didn't seem any faster but it did shed dirt a little better which was what I had hoped for. I showed it to all of my racing buddies with a thumb carefully positioned to hide that the wax company was talking about aircraft and claimed the wax made my car nine percent faster!(grin)

Hu
 
sbrownn said:
Did some searching here and many seem to like wood shaft waxes like Renaissance, Longoni, Molinari and others. Some have reported the wax melting or getting sticky in warm conditions. Others say it is expensive (first two I mentioned) to very expensive (Molinari). Others have said they don't like the odor (first one I mentioned).

I have played with maple wood (non-LD) shafts for for over 40 years and never used a shaft wax before. I wipe the chalk off my tips before putting away my cues after playing using a clean dry paper napkin. For shaft cleaning, I use a magic eraser sheet (sometimes with 90% alcohol or white gas) and finish with the green side of the Q-Wiz. If I need a deep clean, I use 800 sandpaper on the shaft.

Should I give it a try? Longoni seems like the first one I try, given its price point, no smell and similar to Renaissance but not as hard. If I did get some, I recently bought a kielwood shaft that has a very tight fitting threaded insert on all of my 3/8x10 joint pins (some modified, some not). Can I use Longoni wax there also to help the threading issue? Will I get any chalk dust or dirt gathering there or on any of the shafts I apply it on if I go with the Longoni?

TIA
Click to expand...
The best wax has almost zero cons. Most brands either smell bad or they do not make the shaft slick enough. The best wax is not being manufactured at this time as the company making it sold out and the new owners say the billiard side of the business is not enough to continue the product. I am trying to find a way of taking over the formula and bring it back soon.
 
I think the one big problem with wax is after about 3 hrs of play, the slickness of it has diminished to the point that you want to re wax it. Shaft still feels smooth to the touch, but is not as slick as when just waxed.
 
muskyed said:
I think the one big problem with wax is after about 3 hrs of play, the slickness of it has diminished to the point that you want to re wax it. Shaft still feels smooth to the touch, but is not as slick as when just waxed.
Click to expand...
I think a lot of that is chalk residue.
 
muskyed said:
I think the one big problem with wax is after about 3 hrs of play, the slickness of it has diminished to the point that you want to re wax it. Shaft still feels smooth to the touch, but is not as slick as when just waxed.
Click to expand...
This is when you burnish it on your t shirt. But straightline has it right, that's not the wax, that's filth from either chalk or hand oil. Guys with CF carry a microfiber towel, because hand oils quickly build up. You either get distracted by seeing oil splotches while playing or the splotches change the "slide-yness" of the stick.
 
Biloxi Boy said:
And you have used this for how long?
Click to expand...
I haven't used this product, but I am considering giving it a go. There was a thread about it some time ago, and quite a few members seemed impressed with this coating. I thought I would throw up this link, in case anyone was interested in trying it.
I have zero affiliation with this product.
 
muskyed said:
As a woodworker and someone that worked with chemists that actually studied and formulated waxes, I don't subscribe to the Renaissance wax is best. As I had some of it around and many other waxes for that matter I tried it on my shafts and wasn't really impressed. Not only that, but I tried it on my wood rails of my pool table and it was horrible. Nothing but greasy smudgy fingerprints all over. Table looked horrible. I'm sure it was fine if you didn't touch it, but not right for use on a pool table. I then tried some Johnsons paste wax, better but still not the best. I then decided to try Meguires Carnauba car wax. Perfect, not only for the table but also shafts, virtually no fingerprinting, well except when my wife plays as she has sweaty hands.
Every wax is probably good for something, just not the best at everything. Waxes are formulated for different needs, if their best use aligns with how you intend to use it, great, but just because some manufacture says its wax is best because this or that museum recommends it is just puffing for sales.
View attachment 818108
Click to expand...
Agreed. I use the Maguire's Gold Class Carnauba paste wax and have good success with it. I later tried the Renaissance wax as a comparison and disliked it considerably. It did seem to pick up dirt and chalk, and I don't place my cues on the table, and apply chalk with the cue almost horizontal to keep the particles clear. Have also gone to the Pagulayan (V10 Blue) which has helped keep chalk accumulation down as well.
 
I’ve watched people, some that are really great players do unusual things to their shafts, sand paper, scotchbrite pads, magic erasers.

For me, I’m not a fan of ANYTHING remotely abrasive near my shafts ever. Before play I burnish with a piece of leather, and wipe down after play with a microfiber cloth. Twice a year, my cue guy will use block carnuba wax and then burnish the hell out of it with a piece of leather on the lathe to seal it in early spring and early fall. I’ve got a lot of shafts, they’re all 30 to 40+ years old, dead straight and feel and play just fine. Everyone has their something 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top