Draw Problem

C

cut shot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I got the nineball out and aimed it at 6.00 o'clock at the object ball. No draw.. when I looked at the nine the chaulk mark was higher up on the ball about 1/4 inch. I am somehow pulling up in my stroke. Any advice as to what I am doing wrong with my stroke? Thanks! :confused:
 
i am doing the same thing, but apparently with most shots, not just the draw shot. my chalk mark is, for the most part, about an 1/8" of an inch higher than where i think i am aiming. on almost all shots.

must be moving up, dunno.

DCP
 
You could be jumping up on your shot. Try keeping your head down. What you should really do is get a friend to critique your mechanics or seek out a lesson from the local house-pro.


Jude M. Rosenstock
 
Awhile back, I used a friend's Rempe cue ball and was stunned when I saw the chalk mark and how far my shots were off than where I intended to aim. I've been working on my draw shots too, they are giving me a problem, especially the long draw.
 
Aim lower, follow through, and stay down until all balls stop moving. Once you miscue about umpteen times, you'll automatically move up to where you should be aiming. The longer the tip of the cue is on the cueball, the more action you'll get. You don't need to hit the ball hard either, just follow through with a smooth stroke. Good luck, I hope this helps. Peace, John.
 
cut shot said:
I got the nineball out and aimed it at 6.00 o'clock at the object ball. No draw.. when I looked at the nine the chaulk mark was higher up on the ball about 1/4 inch. I am somehow pulling up in my stroke. Any advice as to what I am doing wrong with my stroke? Thanks! :confused:
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Players that strike the c/b inaccurate can be doing anything, believe me. It's easy for a trained eye to find the fault/s. The most common problem that faces the average player is "hit instinct". By that I mean they hit at, rather than let the arm and cue weight flow through in a straight direction. It's called steering. Steering is usually caused by a tight grip and the cue goes any direction but straight.

It seems fairly obvious the cue tip is raising. One common reason, the butt end of the cue is being lowered during the stroke. I don't know your bridge length but the longer it is the more room for error. Try a short bridge (6") and practice short draw shots (6" of draw and 1' from o/b). In the beginning a small amount is fine and only go lower or increase speed when you feel comfortable. If you try to do too much the "hit instinct" appears which causes a (tight grip) then you'll be back to where you started.

A good instructor can easily identify the problem and get you squared away. If I were you I would seriously consider such since there may be other problems. As a foot note one of the most common problems I see is a smooth forward progression.

Rod
 
Thanks Rodd and everyone else..I will try the suggestions and let everyone know the results tomorrow. I have my work cut out for me on this one. :eek:
 
cut shot said:
I got the nineball out and aimed it at 6.00 o'clock at the object ball. No draw.. when I looked at the nine the chaulk mark was higher up on the ball about 1/4 inch. I am somehow pulling up in my stroke. Any advice as to what I am doing wrong with my stroke? Thanks! :confused:
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Assuming your bridge is solid -- and some players have a bridge that goes all over everywhere during the shot -- there is only one possible way to hit higher on the cue ball than you address it.

You are dropping your elbow before tip contact.

If you think it's a good idea to drop your elbow during the stroke, then simply aim lower on the ball, maybe even somewhere on the cloth. If you think it's important to hit the cue ball where your tip is during the warmup strokes, then you're going to have to stop dropping your elbow before tip-to-ball contact.
 
Hey Rude Dog.. Is that really you in the pic? Anyways, I like it better than the finger sticking out of your eye socket.You are one cool Dude! :cool:
Rude Dog said:
Aim lower, follow through, and stay down until all balls stop moving. Once you miscue about umpteen times, you'll automatically move up to where you should be aiming. The longer the tip of the cue is on the cueball, the more action you'll get. You don't need to hit the ball hard either, just follow through with a smooth stroke. Good luck, I hope this helps. Peace, John.
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Hi Bob.. I am going to try that also. I will let everyone know how it comes out. I have my tootsies and fingers crossed! :D
Bob Jewett said:
Assuming your bridge is solid -- and some players have a bridge that goes all over everywhere during the shot -- there is only one possible way to hit higher on the cue ball than you address it.

You are dropping your elbow before tip contact.

If you think it's a good idea to drop your elbow during the stroke, then simply aim lower on the ball, maybe even somewhere on the cloth. If you think it's important to hit the cue ball where your tip is during the warmup strokes, then you're going to have to stop dropping your elbow before tip-to-ball contact.
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Your stroke may actually be perfectly level. Depending on the curvature of your tip, you will definitely not be contacting the cue ball with the center of your cue tip -- where you *think* you are aiming. Instead, for draw shots, you will be contacting with the upper part of your tip.

You may be doing more harm than good by attempting to correct this "problem". I suggest chalking up before your draw shots, executing them as well as you think you can, and then looking at your cue tip to see where you're missing chalk. Then compare that to the chalk mark on the cue ball and see if there actually is a discrepancy in your stroke.
 
Bob.. You have great advise.. apparently I am dropping my elbow and I don't know why but. I am going to try everyones advice and hopefully correct the problem. The only other venue I have is the Dreadnaught Mark Wilson or The Dreaded Kieth McCready! Heh Heh. :D :D OOOpsy.. There is the Angel Sarah! :D :D
Bob Jewett said:
Assuming your bridge is solid -- and some players have a bridge that goes all over everywhere during the shot -- there is only one possible way to hit higher on the cue ball than you address it.

You are dropping your elbow before tip contact.

If you think it's a good idea to drop your elbow during the stroke, then simply aim lower on the ball, maybe even somewhere on the cloth. If you think it's important to hit the cue ball where your tip is during the warmup strokes, then you're going to have to stop dropping your elbow before tip-to-ball contact.
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I think the key to your problem is that your arm is not perpendicular to the floor when you hit the cb. When you stroke the cue without the cb in front of you, you will notice the tip of the cue takes an S type movement from one end of the stroke to the other if you do not drop your elbow. That is, when you follow through as far as you can without dropping your elbow, at the very end of the follow through, you will notice that your tip dips into the table. It has to because of the pendulum stroke.

Solution - move your hand back on the cue until you arm is aiming directly down to the floor and your cue tip is almost touching the cb. That'll be $5 please!
 
Don (The Preacher ) Feeney on one of his videos recommends moving your grip hand a little forward on the wrap for draw shots. Ideally on most shots your back arm should be hanging straight down at 90 degrees. On draw shots if you move your hand forward a bit(positioned at 85 or 80 degrees ??) it will insure a downward level hit through the cue ball which is essential for draw.

Also when addressing the cue ball (to line up a shot) bring your tip up as close as possible to the cue ball. A lot of people line up 2 (or more)inches back of the cue ball and when they stroke, the pendulum of their stroke is on the upswing which of course kills the drawstroke. By moving closer to the cue ball the pendulum of your stroke will catch the cue ball on the down swing. This is what Tim White(certified instructor) from the Billiard Sancutary recommends.

Those are two suggestions I can give you from certified instructors of which I have their videos. FOR ME, those adjustments work. Some here might argue with Don's and Tim's teachings, however, please remember that they are THEIR teachings and not mine. Best thing is try it and see if it works for you.

I find that people ruin draw shots with a jab stroke, poor (tight) grip, faulty bridge etc etc. I find that a lot of people lift their heads and try to force the draw with power instead of with a good smooth stroke.Keeping your head still is critical. If the top two reccomendations I gave don't have you drawing the cue ball, I'd suggest getting some help from a qualified instructor for the other problems listed. Best of luck, RJ
 
cut shot said:
Hey Rude Dog.. Is that really you in the pic? Anyways, I like it better than the finger sticking out of your eye socket.You are one cool Dude! :cool:
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Yup, that be me cut shot. That was a pic taken in the early 90's after I won a tournament in California on some tour. I beat Ernesto in the finals after beating Morro to get there. The quote in the pic was something they pieced together because I didn't say it just like that. Anyway, thanks. I caught too much negative feedback from the other avatar even though I thought it was just a funny looking picture. Peace, John.
 
Also, don't be scared of the draw stroke. Make it your friend. Fear and lack of confidence will kill your draw stroke, or any other stroke for that matter. You must have confidence in it order to follow all those advices given to you in this thread.
 
hi sorry, it may seem OOT, but i have a qn here;

there seems to be 2 types of draw that i unconsciously use. the punchy type (skids in air) and the follow thru type (spins on cloth)... am i right about this?

re the advice on stroke type for draw shots, does it mean the follow thru should happen when the tip starts to go on the downward s curve?
 
Follow through VERY long and sweet, especially while practicing, and I'll bet your problem is resolved. I mean VERY VERY long...like almost till the joint reaches your bridge. Exaggerated long.
 
I use nip draw when I want the Rock to come back only 4-5 inches. I use the punch stroke to draw it 1-3 feet back. I can only do this if I hit it correctly. I am going to work on my draw stroke today. :)
 
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