Drawing the cue ball with CF shaft

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Quesports

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I keep seeing, reading and hearing it is easier to draw the cue ball with a carbon fiber shaft. Which makes me question if that is true or not? If it is true then why?

For years I have also read it is all in the stroke. So I am wondering what everyone thinks, especially those with a carbon fiber shaft and a traditional wood shaft..
 
Well DRAWING is Skill, skills are master with work call practice.

Buddy just got new CF shaft he is in love.❤️
 
i just switched from a wooden shaft to a pechauer cf shaft and I noticed draw was easier and i was tending to over draw with it. Maybe its the shaft, maybe its the tip. It depends on so many things. The weight of the cueball, the type of cloth, how dirty the cloth is. One of the best draw tips I have heard was from one of the women pros (possibly atwell?, it has been a while). When doing a draw shot, you want your hand that grips the cue very loose, and your bridge hand firm/solid. when I started concentrating on doing that, i found drawing got more consistent.
 
Quesports said:
I keep seeing, reading and hearing it is easier to draw the cue ball with a carbon fiber shaft. Which makes me question if that is true or not? If it is true then why?

For years I have also read it is all in the stroke. So I am wondering what everyone thinks, especially those with a carbon fiber shaft and a traditional wood shaft..
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It's not. Draw is based on two things. Chalk and stroke. Tip hardness and deflection doesn't matter either. Stroke it good and follow through. Know where you're hitting the CB, if you're having trouble with draw, chances are it's too high.

CF might be letting folks actually see where the stick is (dark on light contrast) so that could be what's happening.
 
From my experience, the energy transfer is a little more efficient with CF versus wood, so yes, it may seem like you get more draw/spin on the cue with the same amount of effort that you're used to using.

Edit....I guess PJ types faster than I do and said the same thing at nearly the same time.
 
I was giving a lesson some 15 years ago to a person who stated they could not draw with their cue.
While he aimed to hit the CB low, his elbow was dropping at contact and hitting the ball in the middle.

I used my hand to support his elbow, and he could now draw the ball.

Presto.

If you can't draw the ball, you have a mechanical problem with your stroke.

I find no useful difference between CF and maple shafts in this matter.
 
Quesports said:
I keep seeing, reading and hearing it is easier to draw the cue ball with a carbon fiber shaft. Which makes me question if that is true or not? If it is true then why?

For years I have also read it is all in the stroke. So I am wondering what everyone thinks, especially those with a carbon fiber shaft and a traditional wood shaft..
Click to expand...

In my experience, some of the CF shafts to make getting action on the cueball easier. The Revo is very strong in that regard, to the point that I never use it on a faster or 7 foot table. From the several dozen shafts I have used for more than a few times, the two top ones for adding more power to the stroke is the Revo and the Ignite. Note this is not just about draw, I can spin the cueball easier and move it more in general with the Revo, not just for draw.
 
the energy is the speed and mass going to the cueball. the material in the cue can only have minimal effect if any at all.

if anything a heavier cue will impart more spin or draw onto the cueball than a lighter cue at the same speed and point of impact.

but drawing your cueball back assuming conditions are the same.. is almost always related to the speed of the tip contacting the cueball and where the tip contacts it.
 
Someone on here has already Said It,
If you have a stroke , the equipment don't matter &
If you have the equipment but no stroke it wont matter either IMHO.
 
MitchAlsup said:
I was giving a lesson some 15 years ago to a person who stated they could not draw with their cue.
While he aimed to hit the CB low, his elbow was dropping at contact and hitting the ball in the middle.

I used my hand to support his elbow, and he could now draw the ball.

Presto.

If you can't draw the ball, you have a mechanical problem with your stroke.

I find no useful difference between CF and maple shafts in this matter.
Click to expand...

This. I am not an instructor, but know I have helped many people on different things.

I had an APA teammate when I was getting back into pool who was having problems drawing. He asked me what to do. I watched him try the same shot five times. I told him, "Hit half as hard and twice as low." Immediately he had to adjust for getting getting too much movement.

PJ is correct in that the energy transfer is likely better with a cf shaft, but we all know that isn't what is holding most people back. If someone doubts that, all you have to do is watch Cory's famous MC draw shot.
 
Some excellent comments. Thanks to all for that. I spoke today with a close friend in Utah. He played for over 50 years with a standard shaft and about two months ago bought a Predator cue and Revo 12.4 shaft. He also bought there BK Rush with a sport wrap.

His opinion of the BK Rush is it is the best break cue he has ever hit with.

The Revo he is a bit unsure about. The draw is great but he is not sure if it is appreciably better but it seems easier.

I will say he is quite pleased with both and I value his opinion like I do the members here.

My reason for asking is likely obvious, my draw stroke has always been the weak part of my game. The comments here and from him have convinced me to spend more time working on my stroke and contact area of the cue ball. Rather than buying more equipment. At least for now..

Thnx to all!
 
I used to argue it doesn’t matter. It should just be tip position and power.

I have a CF shaft and I draw the ball very well (for a league player). I’m no professional but at least I can pull it back with control for minor increments when needed, draw back to bounce off a rail for shape, or shoot a full length shot on a bar box and draw the cueball back the full length of the table.

But there has been a few times I’ll travel and visit a pool hall. I’ve needed to use a house cue and found my ability to draw the ball has gone down the tubes. If I’m really close to the ball I can pull it back but much anything else and I keep getting stop shots.

Maybe it’s me struggling with the adjustment from my 11.8 shaft to a 13mm house cue. Maybe it’s just house cues are junk. Or maybe there is something to the whole “better energy transfer” debate. Because my experience is night and day. Then again I do have a spare Hsunami shaft laying around and I seem to draw fine with that.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Probably that. Maybe the tip. Not the cue's construction.

pj
chgo
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This must be a bummer for all those fancy cue owners that swear how great their cues play.
Seriously, I find it funny that two pieces of different wood are the same.
That actually makes zero sense.
Sure, stroke comes first, but equipment can make a difference, unless pool is magic and different from all other sports.

Anyone played hockey? Try taking a shot with a wooden stick vs a composite, then let's talk it is all in technique and nothing to do with energy transfer.
 
Wolven said:
...equipment can make a difference, unless pool is magic and different from all other sports.
Click to expand...
Pool is actually different from other sports, particularly in the way its equipment is made and used - no need for magic.

What specific cue construction differences do you think matter for draw shots?

pj
chgo
 
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