dendweller
Well-known member
Do you tap and expoxy for the stafast fasteners?
Dreaming of and designing my own pool table
- Thread starter MamboFats
- Start date
Pilot, Countersink, Install. No epoxy needed if you use the right pilot. all the details on on their site https://shop.stafast.com/threaded-inserts/inserts-for-hard-wood/screw-in/sk-insert
If you epoxy it and it gets cross threaded, how do you get it out? I have never had one pull out. Anyone else have input on the epoxy part?
TFT
I like to improve what I can, I try always to make my best
I will always prefer a full length inside threaded insert than these one with the hexagon, full length threaded stainless steel insert is the best.
How many times the table will be assembly and diassembly in a live, you need to be stupid not just a bit to strip these stainless steel threads and if you are not sure of your level of stupidity, don't glue that! Epoxy will do better job for sure, I don't need to search every where to know that.
How many times the table will be assembly and diassembly in a live, you need to be stupid not just a bit to strip these stainless steel threads and if you are not sure of your level of stupidity, don't glue that! Epoxy will do better job for sure, I don't need to search every where to know that.
coolidge
Well-known member
You put your big wattage soldering iron on it that's how. A trick from the guitar luthier trade for removing superglued on hooked tooth fret wire hammered into maple/rosewood/ebony guitar fretboards.
WINNNER WINNER CHIKKKKEN DINNER!!! I am gonna have to figure out my own method for this! I dont mind the idea of them NEVER MOVING OR COMING OUT! I never had a problem so far, but, I like permanent!You put your big wattage soldering iron on it that's how. A trick from the guitar luthier trade for removing superglued on hooked tooth fret wire hammered into maple/rosewood/ebony guitar fretboards.
Thanks for the input!
TFT
coolidge
Well-known member
Use a tiny bit of solder on your iron, the solder is the conduit through which the heat travels fast from the iron to the insert. You want to punch it in the face with heat fast, give it some heat, pull the iron off and test to see if its loose. If not add some more heat. Don't rest your iron on it for a long period of time or the wood will start smoking and burning.
dendweller
Well-known member
I've taken a number of joint pins out, it requires heating it real good with a torch then putting the pin in a vise and twisting off the stick. Least that's how I've done it.
If you're just worried about the insert twisting out when you back off the bolt, I'd wait till that happens. You can always epoxy it back in if it ever does. Then again, I'm not a mechanic or a cue maker.
You have knowledge and it all sounds reasonable to me, thanks for the input. I may need to use this sometime. It all adds to my problem solving skills!
TFT
MamboFats
Active member
Contemplating on heated slate
As I'm still thinking about what kind of levelling system I would like, it is clearly to me that the slate is actually floating above the frame, resting on the levelling points/surfaces. The levellers are always on the outside parts of each piece of slate, so the inside is "free".
A few things to mention:
1. in my home venue, the 3cushion club has 6 heated tables. I'm used to playing in these conditions.
2. the new Rasson snooker tables that we're expecting by this spring, also have a heating system
3. I have an early case of osteoarthritis, that will get worse with time: those heated tables are a blessing for my hands.
What if I engineer some levellers that make enough room between frame and slate to place some floor heating mat with a heatshield?
In the quest for my table to be unique, one of a kind, this is something to consider.
I can see the health benefits ...
I can see only benefits, since these mats are quite affordable for the limited size I need.
Anyone has any experience with stuff like this?
As I'm still thinking about what kind of levelling system I would like, it is clearly to me that the slate is actually floating above the frame, resting on the levelling points/surfaces. The levellers are always on the outside parts of each piece of slate, so the inside is "free".
A few things to mention:
1. in my home venue, the 3cushion club has 6 heated tables. I'm used to playing in these conditions.
2. the new Rasson snooker tables that we're expecting by this spring, also have a heating system
3. I have an early case of osteoarthritis, that will get worse with time: those heated tables are a blessing for my hands.
What if I engineer some levellers that make enough room between frame and slate to place some floor heating mat with a heatshield?
In the quest for my table to be unique, one of a kind, this is something to consider.
I can see the health benefits ...
I can see only benefits, since these mats are quite affordable for the limited size I need.
Anyone has any experience with stuff like this?
coolidge
Well-known member
Here's a recent leveling observation from my GC IV...and the slate wasn't even installed yet just leveling the frame. Using a Starrett No 199 machinist level. Leveled the frame and noticed walking away the level changed depending on where I was standing. That's on a 3/4 inch thick Oak tongue and groove floor, over the subfloor, itself on a custom home post and beam construction with a poured outer concrete foundation. Granted a No 199 is ridiculously accurate for use leveling a pool table but could hardly believe my eyes that the level was changing.
Did you research the type of slate heaters the aforementioned tables use to see if you could modify it for a 9' table? No sense in reinventing the wheel when there is already a purpose made solution that could possibly be modified.
MamboFats
Active member
I have not yet found a dedictated product to pool tables.
The local brand Verhoeven Biljarts puts heatings systems on their professional carom tables, but contacting them is on my to-do list.
You will not find a dedicated pool table heater which is why I recommended researching the type of heaters carom and snooker tables employ and possibly altering one of those units to work on a pool table.
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Really not needed for a pool table. More hassle than its worth imo.
Agreed.
I'll straddle that once more...
Besides, even if your table is a bit slow from time to time. All it will do is allow you to gain a stronger stroke.