dro or not dro

desi2960

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i am about ready to pick up my 13 by 40 grizzly. i just noticed that they have the same model with dro for just $300 more, never used one dont even know how to use one.
can you guys explain to me the advantage of having one, and just where would i really need one ?
 
dr0

Most definitely go DRO.
Think looking at big numbers, and not have to try to read the dials on the lathe.
Don't have to worry about slop in lead screws. You can either set
radius or diameter for your read out.
Once you use it, you will never want to go back.
 
Yes for $300 if it comes already installed get it.
For making multiple parts like rings and such that will be a great asset.
 
DRO is not really needed, but in saying that, DRO is one of the biggest time savers out there especially on larger type machine like what you are getting.I am looking at fitting one to my lathe. The cost as an after you buy the machine is quite considerable, compared to the price if they bring them in already fitted. It also takes a fair bit of work to install and set them up right. Randy did a great tutorial a little while back.
The magnetic ones are very forgiving to dirt dust etc. Glass scales need a little more care when cleaning around the scales read head. Just do not use air to clean around the read heads.
Neil
 
i am about ready to pick up my 13 by 40 grizzly. i just noticed that they have the same model with dro for just $300 more, never used one dont even know how to use one.
can you guys explain to me the advantage of having one, and just where would i really need one ?

Suppose you want to cut a tenon of a specific diameter, and you want to do it accurately and repeatedly, say on a bunch of near-finished shafts (for ferrules, rings, or...). And further assume that you can't just set your tool and cut that tenon in once swack. If you're good, and your crank handle dials are good, you may be able to get pretty close.

Now imagine you have a DRO on your lathe. You put your first piece in and you take a rough cut, followed by a "finish" cut - all oversize from what you really want. Without moving your cross slide you zero out your X-axis readout. Back off your bit, move the tool away form your work (Z-axis), and then crank back in on your cross slide until you hit zero again.

Now measure your practice tenon, and input that value for your X-axis. After that you can cut your tenon, and all remaining tenons, to exactly the diameter you want - time after time, with exacting precision. and you're not bending over, squinting at your crank dial, trying to sneak up an a relatively coarse alignment point. Instead, you're looking at a nice bright digital readout screen, watching the tiny increments go by.

That, my friend, is an invaluable use for a DRO - and it's just one example of how much a readout can save you time and improve your results.

TW

 
The $300 extra for the DRO set is worth every dollar. It makes life so much easier.
 
$300?
I paid $800 for mine.
Some pay $1K and up for it .
Can't live without it now.
 
thanks to all

before i sold the jewelry store it would have been a no brainer, but today 300 is 300. grizzly sells this dro as an add on unit for 2000, but on the lathe there is only a difference of 4300 to 4600.

im sure it will be like my smart phone, dozens of features i dont know anything about.
 


Suppose you want to cut a tenon of a specific diameter, and you want to do it accurately and repeatedly, say on a bunch of near-finished shafts (for ferrules, rings, or...). And further assume that you can't just set your tool and cut that tenon in once swack. If you're good, and your crank handle dials are good, you may be able to get pretty close.

Now imagine you have a DRO on your lathe. You put your first piece in and you take a rough cut, followed by a "finish" cut - all oversize from what you really want. Without moving your cross slide you zero out your X-axis readout. Back off your bit, move the tool away form your work (Z-axis), and then crank back in on your cross slide until you hit zero again.

Now measure your practice tenon, and input that value for your X-axis. After that you can cut your tenon, and all remaining tenons, to exactly the diameter you want - time after time, with exacting precision. and you're not bending over, squinting at your crank dial, trying to sneak up an a relatively coarse alignment point. Instead, you're looking at a nice bright digital readout screen, watching the tiny increments go by.

That, my friend, is an invaluable use for a DRO - and it's just one example of how much a readout can save you time and improve your results.

TW


What he said. Like a pickup truck. Don't know how much you use it till it's gone. Dangit I got a Tahoe now! $300 bucks is 10 ferr
ule replacements dead nuts. Do it. Worst case you're not hurt if you decide to sell it.
 
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