Hey guys, when you change a tip and then want to clean the ferrulle, how do you go about it, Ive been just sanding them down until it's pure white and then buffing them up 2000 grit sandpaper but sometimes it seems to take alot of sanding also when I recondition my shaft I start out with 800 grit and then 1000, 1500 and burnish it with 2000 is this proper or not??????
Dumb Question
- Thread starter Ali88
- Start date
Soap and water removes dirt and does not remove any ferrule material.Ali88 said:
this works too
A Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, slightly damp. It is really good for cleaning shafts and ferrules, then a slightly damp cloth and a dry paper towel to burnish it with.
A Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, slightly damp. It is really good for cleaning shafts and ferrules, then a slightly damp cloth and a dry paper towel to burnish it with.
Amazing what a touch of any decent wax on the tip of a rag will do...and I'm pretty sure it ain't hurtin' nuthin'!!! I recommend Bowling Alley wax by I believe Butchers.
Tip: The more often you clean your shaft & ferrule with wax...the cleaner it stays. Chalk doesn't stick as well to a fresh coat of wax.
And yes...never, ever wet a fiber ferrule...unless you feel the need to help your local cue repair guy pay his cable bill!!! LOL
Tip: The more often you clean your shaft & ferrule with wax...the cleaner it stays. Chalk doesn't stick as well to a fresh coat of wax.
And yes...never, ever wet a fiber ferrule...unless you feel the need to help your local cue repair guy pay his cable bill!!! LOL
What about the Q-smooth burnishing film, it's just like the sandpaper I use, I will get a magic eraser tomorrow but am I hurting the shaft and ferrule by sanding it, also am I better to put a coat of Q wax on the shaft or use Slipstick or Q-glide with no wax?
Any time you sand with cue papers or sandpaper or green scotchbrite, its bad because you are removing wood. If you need to burnish...try leather or cardboard. Keep your magiceraser as dry as possible too. Wax seals and protects the shaft...the other products are designed to make your shaft "feel" slick in your fingers. You decide...
Try washing your hands before using your cue and then wiping it down with a soft terry cloth when finished playing. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser cleans well, then burnish with leather and then use SlipStik! If you do all of the above you will seldom need to clean your cue. For your ferrule do not sand try tooth paste.
there were a lot of good ideas expressed...
The real secret of cleaning a shaft and keeping it clean with minimal work is to fill any tiny pores in the shaft wood!!
I do not know how technical we want to get here, but wood has by its very nature tiny, almost microscopic grooves running the length of a shaft. We refer to that as grain. When I am paid to recondition a shaft, I first have to clean it, this exposes the grain, though the grooves are so small that the eye may not see them. If I am doing my job I need to fill these grooves to bring the surface up to the curvature of the shaft. I also raise any small dents that one gets from accidents. Then I use a cabinet grade grain filler that dries crystal clear and protects the shaft from chalk dust re-entering and filling the grooves! I use 1200 grit paper to smooth and level to that curve. I am assuming we will spin the shaft in a lathe to do a pro quality job. And I know we do not all have one, but it is easy to rig one up, and there are quite inexpensive ones at Grizzly and harbor freight. Sanding without the benefit of spinning will surely result in small lumps and valleys! Then I polish with a simple paper towel, dry. Now a good grade of wax is sparingly applied over the length of the shaft and it is buffed and burnished with a dry paper towel, Finally I burnish with a thick leather piece being careful not to burn or discolor the wood. The result is a surface that appears almost surreal. It has depth like modern car finishes that have a clearcoat sprayed as a final coat. The surface is smooth between ones fingers and requires only a wipe with a bare clean towel to stay perfect, and an occasional tiny dab of wax to maintain. Well guys if you are going to do a job right, then be prepared to put in the effort. It sounds like a lot but after the shaft is clean, it takes ten min if one takes their time to do all I described after the dents are raised.
The ferrule? If I can clean it with a magic sponge or if I have to sand it, I then finish the surface in the lathe by polishing with a small buffing wheel in an electric drill spinning opposite the cue shaft rotation and very fine white polishing compound until it glistens, then a very tiny bit of wax to keep it shiney for the customer!
Wow we just added five more minutes to the job to do it right. I know there are some other repairmen out there with their own tricks, these usually work super for me, as theirs do well for them...good luck!
The real secret of cleaning a shaft and keeping it clean with minimal work is to fill any tiny pores in the shaft wood!!
I do not know how technical we want to get here, but wood has by its very nature tiny, almost microscopic grooves running the length of a shaft. We refer to that as grain. When I am paid to recondition a shaft, I first have to clean it, this exposes the grain, though the grooves are so small that the eye may not see them. If I am doing my job I need to fill these grooves to bring the surface up to the curvature of the shaft. I also raise any small dents that one gets from accidents. Then I use a cabinet grade grain filler that dries crystal clear and protects the shaft from chalk dust re-entering and filling the grooves! I use 1200 grit paper to smooth and level to that curve. I am assuming we will spin the shaft in a lathe to do a pro quality job. And I know we do not all have one, but it is easy to rig one up, and there are quite inexpensive ones at Grizzly and harbor freight. Sanding without the benefit of spinning will surely result in small lumps and valleys! Then I polish with a simple paper towel, dry. Now a good grade of wax is sparingly applied over the length of the shaft and it is buffed and burnished with a dry paper towel, Finally I burnish with a thick leather piece being careful not to burn or discolor the wood. The result is a surface that appears almost surreal. It has depth like modern car finishes that have a clearcoat sprayed as a final coat. The surface is smooth between ones fingers and requires only a wipe with a bare clean towel to stay perfect, and an occasional tiny dab of wax to maintain. Well guys if you are going to do a job right, then be prepared to put in the effort. It sounds like a lot but after the shaft is clean, it takes ten min if one takes their time to do all I described after the dents are raised.
The ferrule? If I can clean it with a magic sponge or if I have to sand it, I then finish the surface in the lathe by polishing with a small buffing wheel in an electric drill spinning opposite the cue shaft rotation and very fine white polishing compound until it glistens, then a very tiny bit of wax to keep it shiney for the customer!
Wow we just added five more minutes to the job to do it right. I know there are some other repairmen out there with their own tricks, these usually work super for me, as theirs do well for them...good luck!