Dust collector canister filter

Bill the Cat

Bill the Cat

Proud maker of CAT cues
Silver Member
As I was preparing to perform my spring ritual of cleaning the canister filter on my dust collector, a question came to mind.

What is the useful life of a canister filter?

When should you buy a new one instead of cleaning an old one?
 
Depends on the type . I have a washable and the throw away . The washable are actually the value . Don't know what machine you have . Look online with your model # ...:cool:;)
 
I've looked...

but all I've been able to find is in some woodworking forums. I can't find anything on a vendors site that details approved cleaning methods or when to decide it's time to replace a filter.

I've got a JET DC-1100 with a Dust Dog 1 micron canister filter.

In one woodworking forum, a guy said that he cleaned his pleated canister filter with a garden hose. I'm sure it gets the dust out, but I'd be afraid it would damage the integrity of the filter and degrade its preformance. The main reason I spent the extra money for a canister filter was for the increased level of protection it provides.

I don't want to ruin my filter in the cleaning process. I'd like to know the approved method for cleaning and when it's considered "worn out" and should be replaced.

I clean it by blowing compressed air from the outside to dislodge the fine dust and then vacuum it from the inside. I'd like to know if it's still giving me 1 micron protection or if I should be looking at getting a new one.
 
I saw that one.

PolarBear said:
This guy says he has been cleaning his with water for 5 years, no problem.

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/dust-collector.html

Maybe an email to JET will clear it up.
Click to expand...

Thanks PolarBear,

That's the one I was talking about earlier. Like I said before, I'm sure it "works", but I'd like to be sure that it doesn't degrade the efficiency of the filter.

I think I'll take your advice and contact JET. I"ll post anything I get back from them.
 
I e-mailed JET.....

PolarBear said:
Yeah, I looked all over their site and manuals, couldn't find anything.
Click to expand...

....yesterday, so I don't know how long it will take for them to respond.

I did look in the User Manual that came with my dust collector. It only mentions rotating the paddle handles to clear the dust from the pleats, but nothing about a more thorough cleaning.
 
I have the same type Polar Bear and water works great . Light pressure so not to destroy the filaments . Works great , just as he says ... Brilliant just brilliant ...:cool:;)
 
Bill the Cat said:
As I was preparing to perform my spring ritual of cleaning the canister filter on my dust collector, a question came to mind.

What is the useful life of a canister filter?

When should you buy a new one instead of cleaning an old one?
Click to expand...

Per Bill Pentz - http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/faqs.cfm
" Fine dust rapidly clogs fine filters killing the airflow we need for good collection. Cleaning our fine filters is a pain and rapidly ruins these expensive filters, so most commercial shops use a cyclone to separate off the heavier sawdust and chips then blow the fine dust away into the outside air with no filters.
Those who filter need to replace fine filters after about 20 full bins of chips which is roughly quarterly or about every 500 hours of use.
We need a manometer to know when to change our filters. These only cost about $16 (search for Radon store manometer) to buy or you can easily make one from a clear tube looped and filled with colored water. When the blower is off the water level is at zero. Put a ruler on that tube with the end (zero point) at that water level when the blower is off. When the blower turns on if we have more than 1” of pressure then we have too little filter area for our air flow so need a bigger filter. When the filter goes over 2.5” it is time to clean."

Best,
Beau
 
Thanks for the link.

ELBeau said:
Per Bill Pentz - http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/faqs.cfm
" Fine dust rapidly clogs fine filters killing the airflow we need for good collection. Cleaning our fine filters is a pain and rapidly ruins these expensive filters, so most commercial shops use a cyclone to separate off the heavier sawdust and chips then blow the fine dust away into the outside air with no filters.
Those who filter need to replace fine filters after about 20 full bins of chips which is roughly quarterly or about every 500 hours of use.
We need a manometer to know when to change our filters. These only cost about $16 (search for Radon store manometer) to buy or you can easily make one from a clear tube looped and filled with colored water. When the blower is off the water level is at zero. Put a ruler on that tube with the end (zero point) at that water level when the blower is off. When the blower turns on if we have more than 1” of pressure then we have too little filter area for our air flow so need a bigger filter. When the filter goes over 2.5” it is time to clean."

Best,
Beau
Click to expand...

I can pretty much tell when to clean the filter based on reduced suction. I was more interested in knowing when I need to replace the filter. I found this section covered that subject. I think I'll be looking at adding a pressure gauge to my dust collector.

From Bill Pentz's FAQs:
When and how do I clean my filter bag?
Knowing when to clean your filter is mostly a matter of feel or buying an air gauge. If the flow is falling you need to clean. When to replace your filter is tougher. You have to monitor particulate count, pressure, or be conservative and do early filter replacement. With particle counters far too expensive for most, it comes down to buying a pressure gauge and carefully tracking the pressure or just regularly replacing filters. When the pressure starts dropping after each cleaning your filter is near if not already needing replaced.

Here is how to do that monitoring, at least what works for me. Put an air gauge on your system when you get new bags. For this to work you need a consistent situation. For those with ducting I suggest running with your two closest largest ducts open and all else closed. If you do not have ducting, then test with only a 10’ length of flex hose connected. First record the pressure with no bag then with your bag. The difference is how much resistance your bag adds. Next record the pressure every time you clean your bag by either vacuuming or blowing it down. Don’t use more than 40 PSI to clean your filters or you will kill them early. The pressure should rise rapidly for the first three cleanings then slowly rise for the next six or so. Then the pressure should stabilize after every cleaning. When the pressure fails below its normal after cleaning pressure, it needs attention. If you have a blended poly paper filter like most cartridges, you need to replace the filter. If you have an all poly heavy filter bag or cartridge you need to run the filter through a washer and start over. If the pressure does not quickly build up to the same prior resistance levels, then that poly filter is probably shot and needs replaced.
 
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