east indian rosewood

Dave38 said:
I tried a shellac sanding sealer today. It says it is guarrenteed to be compatable with all types of finishes. I believe it's by Bullseye, but I got it at Rockys (Ace) Hardware. It seemed to work fine. I also thought that I bought some denatured alcohol, wiped it down then put on the sealer. It was then that I realized I grabbed the wrong can and actually bought Acetone instead.:eek: It didn't seem to do anything bad, but I won't use it again for cues just to avoid any oop's. That stuff can melt plastics easily. Thanks for all the responses, have a great weekend.
Dave

Just a quick note on Bullseye, well this of course applies to all our work with chemicals. But the first time I used it I applied it to a cue one evening. And as usual I threw my shop rags in my fire can. The next day I had wiped down a cue with thinner threw my rag in the fire can but the top did not close all the way. A few minutes later I got a strong smell of the Bullseye again and looked at my can.It was smoking and about to combust. The can was hot as hell. After later examination, even after the Bullseye rags were dry, hard and crusty, the chemical reaction with the thinner can still be dangerous and could test your fire insurance. I know we all do our best in shop safety, But remember to not let shop rags with two different chems come together at any time. It only took about 5 min for the combust of these two rags. What got me was the Bullseye was solid and dry on the rag and still reacted to the wet thinner rag the next day.

Dan
 
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Chris Byrne said:
Does anyone use cyno (super glue) as a seal coat before spraying finish? Just curious. Chris.

I have used the stuff from Atlas from time to time with good results. Some of the other super glues turn the material white in spots. I find it better NOT to use any accellerator. I wait 24 hours before sanding and then use my regular sealer and top coat.

For places that have these little holes that never seem to fill up I have used Super Glue Gel with good results. I carefully remove the excess with a file before I spray with sealer.

Good Cuemaking,
 
WheatCues said:
I was using gel...... I never tried it with regular super glue, could that have been my problem ?????



- Eddie
I have had that happen with the gel before. Also with using a quality paper napkin, but then I used a cheap paper towel without a problem. I don't know how or why. It's a tricky deal. I have had the best luck with a thin cyno using a cheap paper towel, applying it with the grain with the lathe off. I then start my wet sanding with 400 if it's really rough or 600 grit and go up from there.
Dave
 
you gotta use the Loctite Precision Max,can't use gel or anything even remotely thick.find the thinnest stuff possible and it works pretty good.even then though i know the white specs you are talking about.i think they come form the super glue turning white as you said and then it gets trapped in a pit and stays white.
 
I have used sanding sealers, epoxy, uv finish in the past all with good results. I decided to try to seal a black palm cue with cyno instead of the others just to give it a try. It worked great but I don't want to spray finish over the cyno not knowing how well it will bond. I have always used it on my v point cues for the veneers but that was soaked into the wood, not topcoating it. Chris.
 
Dave38 said:
I have had that happen with the gel before. Also with using a quality paper napkin, but then I used a cheap paper towel without a problem. I don't know how or why. It's a tricky deal. I have had the best luck with a thin cyno using a cheap paper towel, applying it with the grain with the lathe off. I then start my wet sanding with 400 if it's really rough or 600 grit and go up from there.
Dave



Well, that's interesting because I use bounty select-a-size as my standard shop towel... so that could be another catalyst in this problem !

Thanks for the info DAve !


- Eddie Wheat
 
WheatCues said:
Well, that's interesting because I use bounty select-a-size as my standard shop towel... so that could be another catalyst in this problem !

Thanks for the info DAve !


- Eddie Wheat
Actually, I use the same paper towel, and they work well. It was the more expensive Vanity Fair Dinner napkins that didn't work well. As a side note, The napkins also got hot and 'smoked' while wet with the cyno, paper towels didn't. None caught fire, but made me nervous to use them. There mighn't be some kind of a coating on the dinner napkins that don't play well with the cyno....don't know.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Actually, I use the same paper towel, and they work well. It was the more expensive Vanity Fair Dinner napkins that didn't work well. As a side note, The napkins also got hot and 'smoked' while wet with the cyno, paper towels didn't. None caught fire, but made me nervous to use them. There mighn't be some kind of a coating on the dinner napkins that don't play well with the cyno....don't know.
Dave


Well then I guess it's my inexperience with using cyanoacrylates as a wood sealer.... I tried it once and figured the application is pretty cut-and-dry "so I thought" but I see there's a technique to it....

So on that note I will have to experiment with it again until I achieve optimum results !


Thanks again !


- Eddie Wheat
 
WheatCues said:
Well then I guess it's my inexperience with using cyanoacrylates as a wood sealer.... I tried it once and figured the application is pretty cut-and-dry "so I thought" but I see there's a technique to it....

So on that note I will have to experiment with it again until I achieve optimum results !


Thanks again !


- Eddie Wheat

try viva paper towels they seem to work the best for me..
 
Make sure you have a fan pulling the fumes away, man that stuff burns the eyes.
Dave
 
I'm not sure but after reading, It's sounds like people are talking about 2 or 3 different issues on the white problem.

One is the chemical reaction that turns a haze white color to solid white depending on how bad it is. I've noticed that some glues do this more then others, and also some accelerators can cause the reaction more then others (I don't use any acc. like Arnot mentioned, and I also letting it harden well over night before sanding like He mentioned, that is when I've used It). Also Regardless of if thin or gel is used, If the coats are loaded up too thick, or too many coats are put on inbetween sanding, then that can cause this reaction to take place. Thinner, smooth, coats regardless of type seems to be the key, and every glue is different as to how many coats at a time you can get away with, before the reaction takes place. Practice with any certain type of CA will help determain the limits though. Also By wiping it on thinner for each coat, It lays down an more even finish, this makes sanding easier. The Lesser grit It takes to sand hills and valleys out, the easier It is to polish off without sanding through. If you go on thin, and do a good enough job then there are not as many areas to sand out, therefore you don't have to use such a aggressive grit. Wiping the excess off well, or going on thin as I called It, does have another drawback that sounds like some people here are on to already, I'll explain below-

Ok, doing thin coats, there is a fine line, you don't want to dry the ca out too much or you'll really have problems, but they would be obvious atleast. If you see a dry area then it started drying out, and might as well stop there and sand that coat off, but sometimes the coat can go on wet & shiny looking, with no seen issues, and still have those little white specs show up. They may not show up on the cue anywhere, but in a black colored area, probably because they can be seen easier due to the black background. That's the one that has given me trouble, got through the other issues, but still have that happen. I'm starting to think that loose fibres in the paper towels may be the cause of that. I've noticed the brands of paper towels seem to have different effects in this regard.

Another would be the sanding dust, so cleaning after sanding can sometimes help with that. A dusty environment can cause problems too. Anything on the cue before making a coat is gonna be embedded in the finish unless It's sanded out.

I've played around with ca's quite a bit, at first cheap ca, that sucked, the chemical reaction was out of hand, and even when I did a nice job, a month later It would start lifting around any metal, and didn't really stop any movement in the collar or ring areas. I finally found out that the expensive industrial stuff like loctite makes holds up better. I also have had It down to about 3-4 coats between sanding without the chemical reaction, the paper towel issue drives me nuts though. Sometimes I have no problem, and other times every effort to avoid It fails.

Just My personal preferences, For leveling rings It may be alright. The jury is still out on that one for me, but for sealing, I still like epoxy better when It will stick to the materials. I just have an easier time with it, and less work. The drying time is longer though, but then I don't have to do as many coats.

As a finish Ca will work, looks pretty good, and will shine up for someone that has no other choice or options to spray, but is really hard to be a perfectionist using It, and not all types are created equal. Most types I feel won't survive the test of time, other types I'm still not sure about yet. It's Much easier to spray and buff a cue with more perfection, then working with it though IMO. Just My opinion though. I'm not a CA wizard as Mike calls them:D , because to be honest I'm really not a big fan of it for alot of things either, but I guess It's obvious I've spent some time messing around with the stuff on and off. Some people seem to have better luck with it then I do though.

Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
I'm not sure but after reading, It's sounds like people are talking about 2 or 3 different issues on the white problem.

One is the chemical reaction that turns a haze white color to solid white depending on how bad it is. I've noticed that some glues do this more then others, and also some accelerators can cause the reaction more then others (I don't use any acc. like Arnot mentioned, and I also letting it harden well over night before sanding like He mentioned, that is when I've used It). Also Regardless of if thin or gel is used, If the coats are loaded up too thick, or too many coats are put on inbetween sanding, then that can cause this reaction to take place. Thinner, smooth, coats regardless of type seems to be the key, and every glue is different as to how many coats at a time you can get away with, before the reaction takes place. Practice with any certain type of CA will help determain the limits though. Also By wiping it on thinner for each coat, It lays down an more even finish, this makes sanding easier. The Lesser grit It takes to sand hills and valleys out, the easier It is to polish off without sanding through. If you go on thin, and do a good enough job then there are not as many areas to sand out, therefore you don't have to use such a aggressive grit. Wiping the excess off well, or going on thin as I called It, does have another drawback that sounds like some people here are on to already, I'll explain below-

Ok, doing thin coats, there is a fine line, you don't want to dry the ca out too much or you'll really have problems, but they would be obvious atleast. If you see a dry area then it started drying out, and might as well stop there and sand that coat off, but sometimes the coat can go on wet & shiny looking, with no seen issues, and still have those little white specs show up. They may not show up on the cue anywhere, but in a black colored area, probably because they can be seen easier due to the black background. That's the one that has given me trouble, got through the other issues, but still have that happen. I'm starting to think that loose fibres in the paper towels may be the cause of that. I've noticed the brands of paper towels seem to have different effects in this regard.

Another would be the sanding dust, so cleaning after sanding can sometimes help with that. A dusty environment can cause problems too. Anything on the cue before making a coat is gonna be embedded in the finish unless It's sanded out.

I've played around with ca's quite a bit, at first cheap ca, that sucked, the chemical reaction was out of hand, and even when I did a nice job, a month later It would start lifting around any metal, and didn't really stop any movement in the collar or ring areas. I finally found out that the expensive industrial stuff like loctite makes holds up better. I also have had It down to about 3-4 coats between sanding without the chemical reaction, the paper towel issue drives me nuts though. Sometimes I have no problem, and other times every effort to avoid It fails.

Just My personal preferences, For leveling rings It may be alright. The jury is still out on that one for me, but for sealing, I still like epoxy better when It will stick to the materials. I just have an easier time with it, and less work. The drying time is longer though, but then I don't have to do as many coats.

As a finish Ca will work, looks pretty good, and will shine up for someone that has no other choice or options to spray, but is really hard to be a perfectionist using It, and not all types are created equal. Most types I feel won't survive the test of time, other types I'm still not sure about yet. It's Much easier to spray and buff a cue with more perfection, then working with it though IMO. Just My opinion though. I'm not a CA wizard as Mike calls them:D , because to be honest I'm really not a big fan of it for alot of things either, but I guess It's obvious I've spent some time messing around with the stuff on and off. Some people seem to have better luck with it then I do though.

Greg


Greg,


Thanks for the detailed information... I greatly appreciate you going the distance to offer your knowledge through your trials and tribulations !!!


Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
 
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