English on the break

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Patrick Johnson said:
I think this is self explanatory.

The nose of the cushion isn't the top of the cushion. My Diamond Pro has K-66 cushions (or something equally common), and the top of the rubber is 1 11/16" above the table surface.

No matter how you dicker over terminology, you can't hit a level-cue break shot (or any other shot within 5 feet of a rail) on a normal pool table.

pj
chgo

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Well...it didn't take long to resume posting to me. Did you miss me that badly?

I don't know if you are telling the truth about the height or the bow of your cushions but I'll check it out at JOBs Diamond Pro.

But your PROBLEM, is that the Accu-fast cushions on my Olhausen are neither as high as your nor are they bowed...at all...dead flat...and the rail top wood is flush with the cushion.

I would think it fair to say that there are as many Olhausen tables in use as Diamonds, so neither one is the "standard" over another.

Therefore, even if you are not misrepresenting the height and shape of your cushions, your statement, to have been correct, would have to have been to the effect that on SOME tables, a level break shot is not possible.

But you STILL have a serious problem, which is that the reason this all came up in the first place was your assertion that swerve is a meaningful aspect of a break shot.

But to hit the CB dead center...even from the height you say your cushions are would require such a modest downward angle that no meaningful swerve is going to be imparted by a reasonalby skillful break shot.

Squirt and NOT swerve is the meaningful variable given normal hard breaking attempts.

In BOTH cases, your statements were just flat wrong as explained above.

"Bob:
A level stick would require the center of the bumper to be at the same height as the center of the tip at tip-to-ball contact.

av84fun:
Bob, I beg to differ with you on that.

You
LOL. You're it, Bob.

Except for people, possibly including you, who play pool with a long pencil, the center of the tip DOES NOT reside on the same plane of elevation as the center of the bumper.

PREDICTION:
Bob, being a gentleman by reputation and a scientist by observation, will concur that for the center of the tip of a standard cue to be made level with the center of the bumper, the front of the cue would have to be raised ABOVE level and that he was mistaken to post to the contrary.

Regards,
Jim

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Bob Jewett said:
Please do the measurement and let me know what the result is. A minute on the table is worth 40 hours in the arm chair.

Alright...your dutiful research assistant has completed his assignment.

The distance from the floor to the center of the tip was 32 3/16 from the floor and the center of the bumper was 32 7/16...a 4/16 difference.

Lying flat on the table, the differential is 7/16.

The variation is obviously accounted for by the fact that the floor is not level but the slate top is.

I assume that you gave me this assignment to test whether the assistant could detect the flaw in the professor's experiment.


But in either event, it is clear that for the center of the tip to reside at the same elevation as the center of the bumper, that the tip would have to be raised...unless one plays with a truly cylindrical cue...i.e. a long pencil and not a standard conical cue.


Now that I have done what you asked, would you now state whether it is correct or incorrect that for the center of the tip to be at the same height as the center of the bumper, that the cue would have to be inclined upward? And if not, why not?

And would you also kindly comment on to what extent, if any, swerve is a meaningful factor in a normal, hard break shot? Or merely point me to one of your outstanding articles that may address that issue?

Thanks!
 
BPG24 said:
These threads always turn into pissing matches
Only the ones that involve Patrick...Check out the Allison v. Archer thread.

Over 260 posts with VERY different opinions being expressed but no pissing. The pissing only starts when Patrick is involved and simply can't admit that he is wrong from time to time.

(-:
 
av84fun said:
Only the ones that involve Patrick...Check out the Allison v. Archer thread.

Over 260 posts with VERY different opinions being expressed but no pissing. The pissing only starts when Patrick is involved and simply can't admit that he is wrong from time to time.

(-:


LOL... I saw that thread, it's amazing how quick a good thread goes that way...

It's one of the main reasons that I haven't given my opinion on this subject, all I know is from what I have read and my own experimenting... And I don't care for people to tell me why what I figured out isn't true... Maybe you understand what I mean
 
Patrick Johnson said:
I think this is self explanatory.

The nose of the cushion isn't the top of the cushion. My Diamond Pro has K-66 cushions (or something equally common), and the top of the rubber is 1 11/16" above the table surface.

No matter how you dicker over terminology, you can't hit a level-cue break shot (or any other shot within 5 feet of a rail) on a normal pool table.

pj
chgo

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OK. I just called Bobby Pickle at The Cue in Clarksville, TN and asked him to measure the height of the nose from the slate bed on one of their Diamond Pro tables. It measured EXACTLY 1.5 inches or 3/16 lower than yours...if you are telling the truth.

In addition, he said that the rail top was EXACTLY level with the cushion and that there was no downward bow as supposedly exists on your table.

Therefore, that difference easily accomodates a non-miscue hit...especially with a dime radius tip that you seem to know so little about.


Mr. Bludworth of cue maker fame is there too. don't believe me? Call 'em and ask 'em.

BTW, they didn't know what cushion model number was installed...but neither to you.

Are we having fun yet????

(-:
 
BPG24 said:
LOL... I saw that thread, it's amazing how quick a good thread goes that way...

It's one of the main reasons that I haven't given my opinion on this subject, all I know is from what I have read and my own experimenting... And I don't care for people to tell me why what I figured out isn't true... Maybe you understand what I mean


Oh YES...I do know what you mean!!! LOL
 
OK. I just called Bobby Pickle at The Cue in Clarksville, TN and asked him to measure the height of the nose from the slate bed on one of their Diamond Pro tables. It measured EXACTLY 1.5 inches or 3/16 lower than yours...if you are telling the truth.

1.5 inches is exactly the same height as the nose of my cushion - look at the drawing again. You do know the nose is the part the ball touches, right? Unless I'm lying about that too.

In addition, he said that the rail top was EXACTLY level with the cushion

My rail top is also level with the top of my cushion, which is 3/16" higher than the nose of my cushion.

... and that there was no downward bow as supposedly exists on your table.

This is where you're wrong. If they lay a straight edge across two rails of their table they'll find that the nose of the cushion is noticably below the top of the rail/cushion. I'll bet it's even true of your Olhausen.

pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
1.5 inches is exactly the same height as the nose of my cushion - look at the drawing again. You do know the nose is the part the ball touches, right? Unless I'm lying about that too.



My rail top is also level with the top of my cushion, which is 3/16" higher than the nose of my cushion.



This is where you're wrong. If they lay a straight edge across two rails of their table they'll find that the nose of the cushion is noticably below the top of the rail/cushion. I'll bet it's even true of your Olhausen.

pj
chgo

"You do know the nose is the part the ball touches, right? "

Yes Patrick...I know what the nose is....YAWWWWNNNNNN. But the nose in your drawing had NOTHING to do with your argument...the top of the rail wood is where the cue must rest to be stroked level. IS THAT CLEAR TO YOU?????????????

And I did make one slight error. Using a straight edge as you suggested, I find that there is a SLIGHT bow to my cushion....exactly 1/16 to be precise.

That means that instead of the full 1 4/16 inch of protrusion above the nose on my table, the effective protrusion is "only" 1 3/16 inches but that is still WELL within the margin for not miscueing.

But you are still HOPELESSLY wrong that the couple of 16ths of an inch we are talking about is sufficient to impart any material amount of swerve on a typical hard break shot...which is the NONSENSE you stated which started this whole debate...as Bob Jewett will confirm if he cares to respond further.

So...YET AGAIN, when I politely disagreed with one of your statements, you desperately engage in your patented dance steps.

The FACT of the matter is that only a very slight downward slant would be required to hit the cb dead center...even on your table and not enough to impart swerve on a CB that spends a goodly portion of its travel toward the rack IN THE AIR....ESPECIALLY with the more downward slant required on YOUR table.

Finally, let's see if you are even capable of a straight forward answer.

Is it TRUE or FALSE that on a standard, conically shaped pool cue, that for the center of the tip to be at the same height above a level surface as the center of the bumper, that the tip would have to be raised or the butt lowered from a level orientation?

True or False??

(-:
Jim
 
Talking more or less

reminds me of a saying that one of my brother's old law partners used to
say, "Two inches more, I could have been a king, two inches less and I would have been a queen"..... sorry, just thought you guys could use a little humor at this juncture .... :rolleyes:
 
Snapshot9 said:
reminds me of a saying that one of my brother's old law partners used to
say, "Two inches more, I could have been a king, two inches less and I would have been a queen"..... sorry, just thought you guys could use a little humor at this juncture .... :rolleyes:

THANKS! I am always interested in a good laugh...like when Patrick posted that a dime cue tip radius can't be easily maintained!!!!!

Or that you can't hit a pool ball with a level stroke!!!!!!!!!!

Or that geometrically derived contact points lead the ob into the center of the pocket on centerball hits!!!!

Or that swerve has something to do with a break shot traveling at 20 mph +/- for about 4 1/2 feet...and in the AIR much of the time!!!!

BWUAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(-:
 
BPG24 said:
It must be Halftime...

Or has the war ended?

Nah. I think he had to get some much needed rest to recover from his wounds. Or possibly, he might have done what any good general would do when he knows he can't win the battle....declare victory and retire from the field!

Maybe he just broke out his Arther Murray Dance Video and is practicing up.

(-:
 
Patrick Johnson said:
I think this is self explanatory.

The nose of the cushion isn't the top of the cushion. My Diamond Pro has K-66 cushions (or something equally common), and the top of the rubber is 1 11/16" above the table surface.

No matter how you dicker over terminology, you can't hit a level-cue break shot (or any other shot within 5 feet of a rail) on a normal pool table.
pj
chgo

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Ooops! I missed one of your grandiose and grandly inaccurate pronouncements.

As already noted, my Olhausen top cushion height is 3/16 lower than your table. If you would get your head out of whereever it is, and look at your own diagram, you will see that 3/16 lowers the cue tip to WELL within limits...especially with a dime radius tip.

So, is it your personal, learned opinion that Olhausen does not manufacture a "normal pool table?"

How about Brunswick? To they build "normal" pool tables? Well, if you think so, then check out this link. http://www.brunswickbilliards.com/helpful_information/hidden_differences/index.html

Brunswick says that the standard for nose height is 64% of the ball height. So, let's do some MATH....FUN!!!

2.25x.64=1.44 inches. So, what are you doing with that 1.5 inch nose height...PLUS ANOTHER 3/16 top cushion height!

Admittedly, my nose height is slightly lower than the Brunswick standard and fortunately, my top cushion height is a full 1/8 lower than yours.

The nose of the cushion isn't the top of the cushion. My Diamond Pro has K-66 cushions (or something equally common),

There IS nothing equally common. The K55 profile is far less prevalent.

(-:
 
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Simple Question?

Just wondering?

If you could hit a ball with a level cue and not have the rail interfere with the cue being level, wouldn't it stand to reason the if you froze the ball up against the rail, you should be able to aim at the ball and hit it in the same area that you would if the ball was out in the middle of the table. Correct?

If anything, you should be able to hit at a lower area because the shaft diameter is laying on the rail versus the butt of the cue. (therefore giving a lower hit on the ball)
 
Yes Patrick...I know what the nose is

You didn't appear to know that when you said this:

"I just called Bobby Pickle at The Cue in Clarksville, TN and asked him to measure the height of the nose from the slate bed on one of their Diamond Pro tables. It measured EXACTLY 1.5 inches or 3/16 lower than yours..."

...instead of the full 1 4/16 inch of protrusion above the nose on my table, the effective protrusion is "only" 1 3/16 inches...

Nothing I can think of "protrudes" above the nose by an inch or more.

But you are still HOPELESSLY wrong that the couple of 16ths of an inch we are talking about is sufficient to impart any material amount of swerve on a typical hard break shot...which is the NONSENSE you stated which started this whole debate...as Bob Jewett will confirm if he cares to respond further.

No, I didn't state anything of the sort. That's something else (not the first thing by a long shot) that you made up in your fevered imagination. I simply said that speed and squirt aren't directly related.

Is it TRUE or FALSE that on a standard, conically shaped pool cue, that for the center of the tip to be at the same height above a level surface as the center of the bumper, that the tip would have to be raised or the butt lowered from a level orientation?

It's false, because you don't understand what "level orientation" means. As Bob has said, a level stick means its centerline is level, not its bottom edge. (Why do you choose the bottom edge to measure and not the top edge?) And, by the way, measuring a level stick by its bottom edge doesn't change how low on the cue ball you can hit with a level stick anyway.

And, by the way, a conical taper isn't standard for pool cues (even though I have one).

Patrick posted that a dime cue tip radius can't be easily maintained!!!!!

No, I didn't. I said it quickly flattens and is therefore rarely in actual use. Most players simply don't shape their tip that often, for whatever reason. "Cant be easily maintained" is another one of your fevered fantasies.

Or that you can't hit a pool ball with a level stroke!!!!!!!!!!

I said this and still mean it.

Or that geometrically derived contact points lead the ob into the center of the pocket on centerball hits!!!!

Fevered fantasy. Show us the quote.

Or that swerve has something to do with a break shot traveling at 20 mph +/- for about 4 1/2 feet...and in the AIR much of the time!!!!

Fevered fantasy. Show us the quote.

BWUAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Maniacal cackling suits you.

my Olhausen top cushion height is 3/16 lower than your table
...So, is it your personal, learned opinion that Olhausen does not manufacture a "normal pool table?"

When I can get to an Olhausen and check it out I'll let you know. You're so caught up in this "war" you want to have with me that I can't take your word for it.

Brunswick says that the standard for nose height is 64% of the ball height. So, let's do some MATH....FUN!!!

2.25x.64=1.44 inches. So, what are you doing with that 1.5 inch nose height...PLUS ANOTHER 3/16 top cushion height!

Ask your friends at The Cue what they're doing with one, doofus.

The difference between 1.44 and 1.5 is less than 1/16". Cushion noses aren't knife-edged, and the rounded part is at least 1/16" thick. Since we were talking about how low a stick can get, I measured to the top of the rounded part of my cushion nose.

pj
chgo
 
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klockdoc said:
Just wondering?

If you could hit a ball with a level cue and not have the rail interfere with the cue being level, wouldn't it stand to reason the if you froze the ball up against the rail, you should be able to aim at the ball and hit it in the same area that you would if the ball was out in the middle of the table. Correct?

If anything, you should be able to hit at a lower area because the shaft diameter is laying on the rail versus the butt of the cue. (therefore giving a lower hit on the ball)

If the cue would have to touch the rail at any point in the stroke then its height is the height that the bottom of cue tip must be for the cue stick to be level.

The only way to stroke level lower than the rail height is if the cb is far enough away from the rail (5 ft. +/-) that a back stroke can be taken without the cue bumper colliding with the cushion.

On my table, level can be achieved from anywhere if the cb is struck very high...but within the "no-miscue" zone.

The shaft vs. butt diameter doesn't come into play...although I had to think about that too. But if you lay the cue down on the table, you see that the bottom of the shaft and the bottom of the butt both lie on the same plane. You might as well lay a ruler down...same thing.

Does that answer your question?

Regards,
Jim
 
av84fun said:
On my table, level can be achieved from anywhere if the cb is struck very high...but within the "no-miscue" zone.

Not arguing, but, then you should be able to freeze a ball up against the rail and achieve the same hit on the cue ball as you would if the ball is in a place on the table where the butt of the cue comes across the rail if the cue stick is level. Correct?

av84fun said:
The shaft vs. butt diameter doesn't come into play...although I had to think about that too. But if you lay the cue down on the table, you see that the bottom of the shaft and the bottom of the butt both lie on the same plane. You might as well lay a ruler down...same thing.

Does that answer your question?

Regards,
Jim

What I was thinking was that the cue diameter is approx 13 mm and the butt diameter is approximately 1 1/4" diameter, therefore from it would be more advantageous to place the "center" of the tip to the cue ball than to place get to the "center' of the butt diameter, (when a ball is on the rail).

ie; center of the cue tip would be approx 6 1/2 mm and the butt, .625"
(16 mm). Ruler (to center) would only be the same if it were tapered like a cue. Although, the base line/bottom is the same n both cases.
 
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Dude Dances Like a Lady

Me..."yes Patrick, I know what a nose is.

Patrick Johnson said:
You didn't appear to know that when you said this:

"I just called Bobby Pickle at The Cue in Clarksville, TN and asked him to measure the height of the nose from the slate bed on one of their Diamond Pro tables. It measured EXACTLY 1.5 inches or 3/16 lower than yours..."

Are you on medication Patrick. HOW, in your foggy thought process did you arrive at the notion that my asking someone to measure the height of the nose, implies that I don't know what the nose is?????????

Nothing I can think of "protrudes" above the nose by an inch or more.

Yes, Patrick. That was a misstatement due to the TEDIOUS nature of having to respond to your hair-splitting drivel. But you know EXACTLY what I meant...which was I was AGREEING with you that I had to reduce the protrusion of the cb above the rail by 1/16th due to the fact that the top of my cushions are that much higher than the nose.


Me:Quote:
But you are still HOPELESSLY wrong that the couple of 16ths of an inch we are talking about is sufficient to impart any material amount of swerve on a typical hard break shot...which is the NONSENSE you stated which started this whole debate...as Bob Jewett will confirm if he cares to respond further.

No, I didn't state anything of the sort. That's something else (not the first thing by a long shot) that you made up in your fevered imagination. I simply said that speed and squirt aren't directly related.

You lie like a rug Patrick. Why? Here is what started all this...

Quote: captainJR...in reference to a break shot which was the subject of the thread
... "the harder you hit the cue ball, the more deflection you get. "

You
This is only true when you go from a pretty soft shot to a pretty hard shot, because a lot of the swerve in the soft shot is eliminated by shooting harder. But you don't continue to get more and more squirt with harder and harder shots, because you can only eliminate the swerve once. (Also, you're not technically propducing more squirt, just eliminating the swerve that counteracted squirt.)"

Where in that comment did you state that squirt and swerve aren't directly related??? You said that a hard shot eliminates "the swerve that counteracted squirt." By definition, that statement implies that swerve exists on a hard, properly executed break shot BUT IT DOES NOT and therefore, there is nothing to eliminate.

But now you are wrong AGAIN by saying that swerve and squirt are not directly related because in FACT...THEY ARE! They are RELATED because require a hit off the vertical centerline AND that one tends to reduce the magnitude of the other...at least when they both exist...which is not true with the hard break shot.




It's false, because you don't understand what "level orientation" means. As Bob has said, a level stick means its centerline is level, not its bottom edge.

Bull crap...to you...and I beg to differ with Bob if that is what he said.

A cue could just as easily be cylindrical (like a round pencil since you don't seem to know the difference between cylindrical and conical...more on that later) in which case the centerline and bottom line would be identical.

In FACT...the first few inches of standard cue sticks ARE cylindrical for all intents and purposes and don't give me any of your hair-splitting crap if those lase few inches aren't parallel by a few thousands of an inch because that would be functionally meaningless. do you think that the tip and ferrule are not a cylindrical????

In any event, in a given orientation, if the tip/ferrule and a few inches more of the shaft are level or all intents and purposes, to say that the cue stick is not level is SILLY. And if you think it is NOT silly, then you show me an engineering study which shows that swerve can be imparted to any meaningful degree by a cue stick oriented such that its tip and ferrule are level with the slate. The subject here is POOL, Patrick...not quantum physics so if a variable is meaningless you should just shut your pie hole and stop making a fool of yourself.
And, by the way, a conical taper isn't standard for pool cues (even though I have one).


No, I didn't. I said it quickly flattens and is therefore rarely in actual use. Most players simply don't shape their tip that often, for whatever reason. "Cant be easily maintained" is another one of your fevered fantasies.

Just more of you self-delusional clap trap. HOW quickly does a dime shape flatten Patrick? Show me the research. Show me the research that suggests that "most players simply don't shape their tip that often."

And how often is "that often?"

And why does Predator specifically recommend a dime shape? Do you think they are STUPID?





I said this and still mean it.

And you are still wrong.



Fevered fantasy. Show us the quote.

Oh, come on Patrick. You splattered that nonsense all over the aiming thread when I stated that "raw geometry" does not predict the ob path on most cut shots hit with center ball...and you blatantly disagreed. Go look it up for yourself.


(-:
 
klockdoc said:
Not arguing, but, then you should be able to freeze a ball up against the rail and achieve the same hit on the cue ball as you would if the ball is in a place on the table where the butt of the cue comes across the rail if the cue stick is level. Correct?
Yes...correct. Sorry if I didn't understand your original question.



Regards,
Jim
 
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