Fat Shaft

NINEBALLART

NINEBALLART

NINEBALLART
Silver Member
I bought a Coker cue with 2 shafts... One shaft is what I call a normal size and shape shaft...The other is a different shape. The bottom part of the shaft where the clear coat is is really fat..So fat it does not fit in my case...Coker said it is a new type of shaft players are asking for. I don't like it...My cue is 18.9 oz with the normal shaft and 19.6 oz with the fat shaft...Coker said to take some off the fat end he would have to clear coat it again and would need my butt so he can match it up again....It may take a week or two.... Sometimes he is slower than that since his health problems.

I don't want to give up the butt right now because I have no other cue and league starts in 2 1/2 weeks...

Can the shaft be taken down and clear coated again without doing the collar at the joint??? The joint lines up perfect now. Is there someone that can do that and leave the joint size the same??? In other words, only the bottom last 6 to 8 inches needs to be taken down. The rest of the shaft is o.k....BUT....The collar at the joint needs to stay the same size....Can it be done by someone out there.??? Let me know.....Thanks....
 
Coker Said He Needs The Butt And Shaft So When He Clear Coats It He Can Sand The Clear Coat Down To Match The Butt...any Other Way To Do It Without The Butt???? And Keep The Shaft Joint The Same Size So It Lines Up To Butt???
 
It can be done without the butt, just not as nice and easy. He would have to mic the shaft at the collar before turning/sanding it. Then do the work and refinish the shaft and sand down to the original size. May end up being off a hair, which is why they prefer to have the cue butt in hand.
Chuck
 
Is the shaft flush with the joint collar? If so then I don't see why he would need the butt end of the cue....
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When a cue is made they have to put a joint collar on and also clear coat the last 6 or 8 inches of the shaft....So they make the shaft smaller on the joint end and then after clear coating they put the shaft on the butt and wet sand it down to even with the butt...

If my shaft was sanded too far, and took off the clear coat, they would clear coat it again and then have to sand it down...If they don't have the butt they don't know when to stop so it lines up even....

I was hoping someone could sand it down and stop before all the clear coat is gone but do no sanding on the joint cap...Or if they go too far, they had it micometered, measured out, and could try to get the circumfrence back close to what it was before they started....

I really don't know because I don't build cues...Just hoping someone knew some way of doing it without the butt?????
 
You didn't answer my question on whether it is flush or not....is so it can taken down to the size you want and don't need to touch the joint collar...
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