Favorite joint on a two-piece pool cue? (Pin type, joint collar material, diameter, etc.)

Minnesota Phat

Minnesota Phat

Active member
What are the joint characteristics of your favorite two-piece cue?

What would you change about it, if you could change the joint components to be anything you want?
 
My favorite characteristics of a two-piece cue joint, is one that screws together snugly and does not comes loose. Beyond that I could care less what's going on there.

I have played with many different joint types and in a blind test, I'm very confident that I could NOT tell them apart.
 
I like the Viking QR, the pin lines things up before you actually start the threads. Uni-Loc is the same principle. I don't honestly think one properly executed joint is better than another. If it's poorly executed, I doubt one is better than the other then either.
 
Ģüśţāṿ said:
My favorite characteristics of a two-piece cue joint, is one that screws together snugly and does not comes loose. Beyond that I could care less what's going on there.

I have played with many different joint types and in a blind test, I'm very confident that I could NOT tell them apart.
Click to expand...
My Pechauer jump cue comes loose frequently - it gets pretty annoying when trying to practice jump shots. It seems to fit together snugly, so I live with re-tightening it frequently, rather than invest more money in buying another jump cue.

I do not like the Pechauer quick-release joint compared to the 3/8 X 10 on my Schmelkes, but the cue does make it much easier to clear over obstructing balls, especially at short range, so I do like the cue, annoying joint notwithstanding.
 
Minnesota Phat said:
My Pechauer jump cue comes loose frequently - it gets pretty annoying when trying to practice jump shots. It seems to fit together snugly, so I live with re-tightening it frequently, rather than invest more money in buying another jump cue.

I do not like the Pechauer quick-release joint compared to the 3/8 X 10 on my Schmelkes, but the cue does make it much easier to clear over obstructing balls, especially at short range, so I do like the cue, annoying joint notwithstanding.
Click to expand...

See I love the quick connect on my peaches. Much rather have one of those than screwing in the big pin. I can't tell the difference in the hit and Mine are broken down, jp's on, and in the case while mu buddies are still cranking on their full thread pins. (maybe a little exaggeration here (y))

I am in the same boat with Gustave... a blind hit test between any type of pin and I won't be able to distinguish.
 
jokrswylde said:
See I love the quick connect on my peaches. Much rather have one of those than screwing in the big pin. I can't tell the difference in the hit and Mine are broken down, jp's on, and in the case while mu buddies are still cranking on their full thread pins. (maybe a little exaggeration here (y))

I am in the same boat with Gustave... a blind hit test between any type of pin and I won't be able to distinguish.
Click to expand...

My old cue was always coming loose. Since I got my Pechauers I never have that problem. Took me a while to break the habit of checking the joint constantly.
 
My Josey has a radial joint. It's my favorite cue. Not a clue whether or not the joint is a factor. Wouldn't want to change it though because it might change the feel. An "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." thing.
 
Whatever feels best…….You really need to try ‘em all and decide for yourself.
A lot more is involved than just the connection point of the shaft and cue butt.
 
Flat faced, as much wood to wood contact as possible. Thin phenolic collars, titanium radial screw. Have not played with a steel joint cue in many many years. I also like a very short thin ferrule and tip glued to end grain of a wood shaft.
One of my all time favorite joints is a wooden screw like you find on many billiard cues.
 
Flat faced, 3/8-10 or radial. Nice snug fit and great balance "options" compared to any piloted joint or small pin joint. With big pins they come in lots of different materials.
 
jokrswylde said:
See I love the quick connect on my peaches. Much rather have one of those than screwing in the big pin. I can't tell the difference in the hit and Mine are broken down, jp's on, and in the case while mu buddies are still cranking on their full thread pins. (maybe a little exaggeration here (y))

I am in the same boat with Gustave... a blind hit test between any type of pin and I won't be able to distinguish.
Click to expand...
My Pechauer jump cue seems to hit fine - it also stays well-connected for at least the first couple of shots, sometimes many more, but from time to time it comes loose, possibly due to a quirk of my unrefined jumping technique.

It works fine in a competitive game, but it can be annoying to have to re-tighten it frequently while practicing.

It sounds like you've had better luck with the quick-connect joint on your playing cue than I've had with the one on my jump cue(?)
 
Ģüśţāṿ said:
Try adding a bit of beeswax to the threads, that may help to keep it more secure.
Click to expand...
What I do with my threads is none of your beeswax, buddy!

Unless you have some beeswax to spare...

I may take your advice, but are you sure that beeswax won't goop up the works? I've heard that these pins can have a tendency to get stuck.
 
JT4Annapolis said:
Radial, Mezz Wavy, 3/8-10
Click to expand...
Forgot to say I love the wavy joint by mezz as well, Cool thing I have experiences is a modified 3/8-10 pin will self thread into a wavy shaft. I chose to to try this before Mezz was producing their shafts in all Joint sizes. My experience is that it worked great and it was a nice tight fit, had no issues with 3 different shafts.
 
Minnesota Phat said:
What I do with my threads is none of your beeswax, buddy!

Unless you have some beeswax to spare...

I may take your advice, but are you sure that beeswax won't goop up the works? I've heard that these pins can have a tendency to get stuck.
Click to expand...
Don't melt it on there but take a solid chunk of beeswax and just rub it onto the threads lightly (just the tiniest amount will do), then screw it in, you can always repeat the process. The last thing you want to do is "goop" it in.

I've done this on multiple occasions with both uniloc and 3/8x10 joints that come loose overtime and it has certainly helped.

On the contrary, if it's a pin into brass insert, you may have some oils from your hands on the mating surface, and you may want to simply try cleaning both surfaces first. Hopefully either method works for you, having a joint that loosens up is very annoying.
 
Last edited:
Howdy All;

When I found out that my Bludworth cue had necked wood in the shaft I rubbed some 100%
beeswax on the threads and "anointed" the wood with it. Afterwards I removed the wax from
the screw end. Did the same with the Mueller SP with it's 3/8 x 10 pin. Then when I got the
Wes Hunter I did it to both shafts as well.
I live in the SW desert of NM so keeping something like that on the threads prevents the wood
from getting to dry. We have a dry (it's a desert here), and our lower humidity is generally less
then the moisture in kiln dried wood from the Lumber Yard. I mean we have dew points below 0.

hank
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top