Ferrule material?
- Thread starter Runnintable
- Start date
Linen based melamine.
Thanks for quick reply.
any way to clean it?
any way to clean it?
Joey is correct, LBM and a rather porous variety at that.
To clean you might start with a soft-scrub type cleaning agent, mildly abrasive.
Should chalk residue remain, move on to a slightly 'hot' solvent.
Even at that you may not get it all. How do you feel about a slight turn-down ?
That may be your only option if you want it perfectly clean.
The very last thing that needs to be done once the ferrule as clean as it will get, SEAL IT !
Had that ferrule been properly sealed, there would be little if any chalk stain to remove.
Good Luck
seal
Give it a spin on the lathe with 400 grit. Then seal it with a couple layers of CA glue. Sand with 800 - then buff to a shine. No chalk will stick. Those are great hitting ferrules.
Give it a spin on the lathe with 400 grit. Then seal it with a couple layers of CA glue. Sand with 800 - then buff to a shine. No chalk will stick. Those are great hitting ferrules.
Yes. Replace it with a Tomahawk ferrule. Problem solved.
thanks for feedback
I would from the suggestions:
1. Clean it first
2. Have it taken down slightly and sealed as suggested.
3. Replace it with new ferrule material.
I do like the way this cue hits as configured. I bought it specifically to break and shoot, therefore enabling me to bring one cue out with me when I play in my bar league.
Humor me with this thought, I was actually thinking of taping the shaft at the connection point and staining it black with a permanent marker (Sharpie). Inspired by a few threads recently about the contrast of black ferrules.
I would from the suggestions:
1. Clean it first
2. Have it taken down slightly and sealed as suggested.
3. Replace it with new ferrule material.
I do like the way this cue hits as configured. I bought it specifically to break and shoot, therefore enabling me to bring one cue out with me when I play in my bar league.
Humor me with this thought, I was actually thinking of taping the shaft at the connection point and staining it black with a permanent marker (Sharpie). Inspired by a few threads recently about the contrast of black ferrules.
Aegis
Some on told me it was Aegis.
Aegis is a linen based melamine?
Some on told me it was Aegis.
Aegis is a linen based melamine?
I believe Aegis is a woven, rolled linen/epoxy based material. If you consider replacing the ferrule, contact Bob Dzuricky, and ask him about my Tomahawk material. It is strong enough to break and shoot with. Those chalk stain issues will be a thing of the past.
j2
That looks more like Ivorine 3 to me. It was a linen based phenolic,not melamine unless I was informed incorrectly.
Joss was first to use Aegis,but other cuemakers eventually found it. Ivorine 3 was used by default for years by McDermott,and Schon supposedly had their own version. Tommy D.
Joss was first to use Aegis,but other cuemakers eventually found it. Ivorine 3 was used by default for years by McDermott,and Schon supposedly had their own version. Tommy D.
Ivorine-3 may be a good guess. The weave pattern and porosity are telling, maybe not conclusive but suggestive.
This may be a good time to address Melamine/phenolic and I'm open to a discussion that adds clarity to my ignorance.
My understanding is that Melamine is white (white linen, white resin).
Different linens and different mixes of resins give us different 'types' of LBM but they are all white.
Phenolic is an amber resin, without an added pigment you get what's known as 'natural' or tan/brown.
I've never seen white phenolic and don't believe it can be made white. I'm not saying anyone here is wrong either.
If anyone has actual knowledge of this subject, your input would be welcome. Thanx
PS - Schon currently uses Ivorine-4. Hardest ferrule mtrl I've seen.
This may be a good time to address Melamine/phenolic and I'm open to a discussion that adds clarity to my ignorance.
My understanding is that Melamine is white (white linen, white resin).
Different linens and different mixes of resins give us different 'types' of LBM but they are all white.
Phenolic is an amber resin, without an added pigment you get what's known as 'natural' or tan/brown.
I've never seen white phenolic and don't believe it can be made white. I'm not saying anyone here is wrong either.
If anyone has actual knowledge of this subject, your input would be welcome. Thanx
PS - Schon currently uses Ivorine-4. Hardest ferrule mtrl I've seen.
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I can't add to your knowledge regarding the differences between melamine and phenolic, but I can say that my rolled Aegis II rod is harder than my Ivorine IV rod. This is in terms of slicing the rod up on my bandsaw into blanks, and boring and threading them on my CNC machine. It takes more force on the bandsaw and the cutters deflect more when boring/threading the Aegis II. That doesn't necessarily mean the Aegis II is more impact resistant or has a harder surface (it might, I don't know), I'm just saying how how they machine. The Ivorine IV is significantly more dense.
Can this be dyed black with a sharpie?
Will it absorb the ink from the sharpie?
Will it absorb the ink from the sharpie?
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The orig. Aegis was my absolute favorite ferrule mtrl. I liked it so well that I used all I had,
mistakenly thinking I could easily secure more. Some things in life you find-out the hard way.
Years went by and I thought my dreams dashed when behold; Aegis-2 is now being offered.
Kelly, I don't doubt your experiences but I find Aegis-2 to be somewhat disappointing.
Where you found it to be rather 'hard', my experience was just the opposite; soft.
There may be a logical explanation for this; some mtrls harden with age, particularly plastics.
I've found this to be true with most plastics and even aluminum will age-harden.
I purchased my first 'batch' of A-2 probably 4-5 yrs ago. That same batch machines differently today.
I've also noticed that batches run by the same producer can vary with each run.
Just as a teaser I still have a small amount of the orig. Spaulding LBM. It's about as hard as diamond now.
Have a Great Holiday weekend everyone. Please remember why we have it. Thanx
I don't recall it being softer when I first purchased it, but that doesn't mean it wasn't. I think material variability is likely. I like the material I have, but original aegis was before my cue making time so I can't compare. I can send you a blank if you are inclined to compare it.
I know what you mean about using up all of a material. Materials have changed even in my relatively short cue making journey. I have some threaded and capped ivorine III that I'm reluctant to use just so I have some if ever requested or needed for a repair. When a material is running good it's best to stock up for sure.
Same to you, enjoy the holiday.
Yet another reason to buy more Tomahawk.
Happy Memorial day weekend to you and yours Kelly.
All the best.
Joe P.
Very good post KJ. I would also like to expand on this. First, I want to start off by saying that I am not a cuemaker, but...I have done my homework, and have been around enough material/s, and cuemaking to have some knowledge with regards to this subject. With any material, as you stated, even from the same company, there can be variance based on any number of factors, the quality of the raw materials used to produce the product, the manufacturers methods, quality control protocols, etc, etc, etc. Whatever "it" was made Spaulding, an excellent LBM, or the "original" Aegis a good material, or the "old" Ivorine 3 such a cuemaker favorite, is likely anybody's guess. Mine, is that whenever those producers either quit making it, or changed hands, or whatever, someone else came along, an thought they could make the same product with less overhead, and ended up turning something good into a not so much, by using inferior raw materials, or trying to cut corners in the manufacturing process. Granted, I am not a/the "go to guy," but I am smart enough to hazard, a semi-educated guess/opinion. As for plastics, it seems to me, that via the research I have logged, a great deal of the criteria that makes a "plastic" either good or "bad," has to do with the A.) the composition of the particular formula used to make the plastic, and B.) the manufacturer, and the manufacturing process. Some plastics, in rod form, are either high flow, or low flow injection molded, which I assume can have some overall effect on it's likely usability for the purpose of a ferrule. As for "my" thermoplastic, (Tomahawk) it is quite honestly superior in my opinion, to just about any other that I have come across, which is saying something, considering the broad range of materials that make up this category. The other contributing factor/s that I find often gets left out of these conversations is the cue builder, and their methods of construction, and the CARE the cue is given after it is built. One could likely have the best cue, made out of the finest materials money could buy, and if the cue is abused, or exposed to the elements long enough, it WILL end up in either warpage, or some component failure. At any rate. I hope I have provided something of value to a discussion that could carry on as long as a body could endure. The thing is time, it is always the tale tell of most things of substance, and the result is usually pass or fail.
All the best.
j2
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