ferrule scratches
- Thread starter LILJOHN30
- Start date
Here is my experience:
I'm not sure if you are referring to ivory ferrules or not? I've only tried the following product on ivory.
One of the cuemakers on here recommended a nail buffing pad (not emory board).
I've used the nail buffing pad while spinning the shaft on my drill, and it worked great. On some of my old shafts with both ivory and non-ivory ferrules, I used 1200 grid sand paper. The sand paper seemed to take too much off making the shafts pencil thin in no time. The nail buffing pad makes the scratches disapear without thinning the shaft. That's my two cents!
Good Luck!
I'm not sure if you are referring to ivory ferrules or not? I've only tried the following product on ivory.
One of the cuemakers on here recommended a nail buffing pad (not emory board).
I've used the nail buffing pad while spinning the shaft on my drill, and it worked great. On some of my old shafts with both ivory and non-ivory ferrules, I used 1200 grid sand paper. The sand paper seemed to take too much off making the shafts pencil thin in no time. The nail buffing pad makes the scratches disapear without thinning the shaft. That's my two cents!
Good Luck!
LILJOHN30 said:
Anything over 600 doesn't seem to leave scratches from my experience; however, your shafts will get noticeably thinner. This is why I like the buffing pad for finger nails & not the emory board or sandpaper.
It depends.....
It depends on the depth of the scratch. You basically want to chose the finest grit that will still remove scratch. When sanding, the sandpaper itself will leave scratches. Once the offending scratch is removed, progress to even finer grits to remove the scratches left by the preceding coarser grit. After finishing with 2500 grit, I use a polishing compound to give the ferrule a mirror-like shine.
BTW, after the first sanding to remove the initial scratch, I wet sand.
Lastly, if you're not doing this on a lathe, you will probably end up with a ferrule that is out-of-round.
LILJOHN30 said:
It depends on the depth of the scratch. You basically want to chose the finest grit that will still remove scratch. When sanding, the sandpaper itself will leave scratches. Once the offending scratch is removed, progress to even finer grits to remove the scratches left by the preceding coarser grit. After finishing with 2500 grit, I use a polishing compound to give the ferrule a mirror-like shine.
BTW, after the first sanding to remove the initial scratch, I wet sand.
Lastly, if you're not doing this on a lathe, you will probably end up with a ferrule that is out-of-round.
The ferrules and shafts only get thin if you sand or remove more than the depth of the scratch.Scratches are very deceptive of there depth.A scratch can easily be 8 to 10 thou deep. That is quite a bit off the diameter. So if the scratches are deep, just put on a new ferrule. The shaft stays about the same size and it will look like new.
The other option is to just polish enough to get the majority of the scrathes removed and leave the wood alone.
The best option is to chalk in such a way that you don't get chalk on the ferrule side.
600 then work down to 1500 or so, I would sugest spinning in a lathe to get best results. Don't use too many rpm, about 400 rpm works good. Keep the moving the paper so it does not get hot under your fingers.
It will work fine.
Neil
The other option is to just polish enough to get the majority of the scrathes removed and leave the wood alone.
The best option is to chalk in such a way that you don't get chalk on the ferrule side.
600 then work down to 1500 or so, I would sugest spinning in a lathe to get best results. Don't use too many rpm, about 400 rpm works good. Keep the moving the paper so it does not get hot under your fingers.
It will work fine.
Neil