Ferrule Substitute

[jbaggs90]

What would be a good substitute material for a new predator ferrule. I need to put on a new ferrule and do not have original predator rod. I have ageis, ivory, ivor3, ivor4, pvc, and elforyn.

Thanks in advance for your imput

 

[Varney Cues]

What would be a good substitute material for a new predator ferrule. I need to put on a new ferrule and do not have original predator rod. I have ageis, ivory, ivor3, ivor4, pvc, and elforyn.

Thanks in advance for your imput

With what you have...use the Elf. I've used it on many 314's and it was fine. I hope you've done a Pred ferrule before or you don't know what you are getting into. Are you going to bore out the ferrule to the extremely thin wall like on their original ferrule or are you going to install a tenon?

 

[jbaggs90]

I have put in a new tenon and made it solid before but I have not done an original thin wall before but it doesn't look to hard. I am going to give it a shot.

 

[Newton]

I have put in a new tenon and made it solid before but I have not done an original thin wall before but it doesn't look to hard. I am going to give it a shot.

I've do all my repairs with the same tenon as ''normal`` - using Titan.
Not hard at all - make them oversized - glue and cut down to shaft dim.
Have had no one coming back.
Pics of repairs @ my web page.

K

 

[KJ Cues]

What would be a good substitute material for a new predator ferrule. I need to put on a new ferrule and do not have original predator rod. I have ageis, ivory, ivor3, ivor4, pvc, and elforyn.

Thanks in advance for your imput

There is no good 'substitute' ferrule mtrl. for Predator shafts.
There is only what Predator has chosen.
The initial release of the Gen2 shafts came equipped with 'Titan'.
Shortly thereafter, they moved to a mtrl. called 'Maxlite" I believe.
To my knowledge, this mtrl. is not available in rod form. Predator ferrules are a precision casting. The only place I know where to get them is through Predator. It's a proprietary mtrl. and a proprietary design.

Generally speaking, Predator ferrules are a warranty issue. Predator has established authorized repair stations throughout the world to address this as well as any other problem an owner of a Predator cue/shaft may have.
However, the fact that the tenon has now been made solid or in some fashion been replaced or modified, tells me that we can take the subject of a warranty off the table. Sorry, but it no longer exists for this shaft.

Any additional weight added to the front-end of this shaft will adversely affect it's intended performance. You have listed a nice selection of ferrule mtrls. but compared to Maxlite, they weigh a ton.

At this point, you're pretty much free to do what you want with this shaft.
At the risk of sounding like a smart-ass, the warranty took a hike and the performance went with it. But then I'm not known to be a smart-ass, right guys?
So do what you have to, to make this shaft whole again and get it back in the hands of your client.

In an effort to help you in this situation, I'll relay this.
The BK2 has a thin-wall LBM ferrule and the performance is not too much different than the 314. Unless the shaft in question has had an extreme turn-down done to it, LBM may help to solve your problem.
Capping the ferrule will add strength but at the expense of performance.
I'd at least put a pad under the tip, maybe carbon fibre.
Good Luck.

 

[KJ Cues]

While I'm writing and reading when I should be working, this caught my eye.

I have put in a new tenon and made it solid before but I have not done an original thin wall before but it doesn't look to hard. I am going to give it a shot.

Be very careful when installing a tenon. If you decide that I now have a tenon and want greater wall-thickness on your ferrule and can therefore turn down the Predator tenon, that hopefully is still intact and encompassing your newly installed tenon, DO NOT go below .280" or anywhere near it. The Predator hollow section is approx. .280" at the entrance and in it's first stage. It drops to .250 about halfway down the hollow.
The tenon is made-up of the ends of the 10 pie splices and the ferrule bands them all together. The more you take off from the tenon, the thinner and weaker those banded splices become. Once they are gone or severely compromised, there is nothing banding/encompassing the splices. Also, the section of your installed tenon that resides in the hollow is now acting as a lever to pry apart the splices. Scary huh?

For the most part, Predator has a very workable design and should not be attempted to be tweaked. It's tweaked to the max now. Well, almost.

 

[cueman]

The Ivory colored ferrules on my site are very similar material to Predators. They are threaded so you will need to drill the threads out and shorten them up, but you will be hard pressed to tell the difference in the material.

 

[jbaggs90]

There is no good 'substitute' ferrule mtrl. for Predator shafts.
There is only what Predator has chosen.
The initial release of the Gen2 shafts came equipped with 'Titan'.
Shortly thereafter, they moved to a mtrl. called 'Maxlite" I believe.
To my knowledge, this mtrl. is not available in rod form. Predator ferrules are a precision casting. The only place I know where to get them is through Predator. It's a proprietary mtrl. and a proprietary design.

Generally speaking, Predator ferrules are a warranty issue. Predator has established authorized repair stations throughout the world to address this as well as any other problem an owner of a Predator cue/shaft may have.
However, the fact that the tenon has now been made solid or in some fashion been replaced or modified, tells me that we can take the subject of a warranty off the table. Sorry, but it no longer exists for this shaft.

Any additional weight added to the front-end of this shaft will adversely affect it's intended performance. You have listed a nice selection of ferrule mtrls. but compared to Maxlite, they weigh a ton.

At this point, you're pretty much free to do what you want with this shaft.
At the risk of sounding like a smart-ass, the warranty took a hike and the performance went with it. But then I'm not known to be a smart-ass, right guys?
So do what you have to, to make this shaft whole again and get it back in the hands of your client.

In an effort to help you in this situation, I'll relay this.
The BK2 has a thin-wall LBM ferrule and the performance is not too much different than the 314. Unless the shaft in question has had an extreme turn-down done to it, LBM may help to solve your problem.
Capping the ferrule will add strength but at the expense of performance.
I'd at least put a pad under the tip, maybe carbon fibre.
Good Luck.[/QUOTE

The stick was never previously altered but the ferrule was cracked and the cap completely broken off by someone dropping of the cue (predator would not replace this because it was an original 314). I wanted to put the stick back together as close to original as I could since the tenon itself was not damaged. I decided to use an ageis II material with strength and chalk resistance in mind. I shorted the ferrule to the proper length and then bored it out to .4050 which is what the tenon was. It took some rigging since the boring bar as it sits will not fit inside the ferrule but I managed to get everything fitting properly. I did add a carbon fiber pad just as an extra precaution. The customer was thrilled to find that his stick did not get the normal plug job with a solid tenon which would have completely changed the performance. I believe he will be very happy with the job and with nearly the same performance that he had to begin with.

 

[jbaggs90]

While I'm writing and reading when I should be working, this caught my eye.


Be very careful when installing a tenon. If you decide that I now have a tenon and want greater wall-thickness on your ferrule and can therefore turn down the Predator tenon, that hopefully is still intact and encompassing your newly installed tenon, DO NOT go below .280" or anywhere near it. The Predator hollow section is approx. .280" at the entrance and in it's first stage. It drops to .250 about halfway down the hollow.
The tenon is made-up of the ends of the 10 pie splices and the ferrule bands them all together. The more you take off from the tenon, the thinner and weaker those banded splices become. Once they are gone or severely compromised, there is nothing banding/encompassing the splices. Also, the section of your installed tenon that resides in the hollow is now acting as a lever to pry apart the splices. Scary huh?

For the most part, Predator has a very workable design and should not be attempted to be tweaked. It's tweaked to the max now. Well, almost.

I found this out the hard way. Thankfully it was a cue that was given to me to experiment on and I didnt have to replace it.