finish adhesion and degree of polish on metallic rings

[Canadian cue]

Would like to know other makers experience with adhesion of auto clear on metallic rings and inlay in relation to degree of polishing before final clear. I realize that there is a mechanical as well as chemical adhesion so how fine a grit a paper will you use? If you don't want to share publicly but are willing to share via PM that would be great too and appreciated.

 

[likestorack]

I don't build but am working on my finish and have found that there is no reason to go any higher than 400grit sandpaper but for metal rings you need to go to about 1000grit sandpaper and polish to a high shine before adding finish otherwise you can see scratches in the rings but in the wood the sealer and clear coat will fill in any scratches :thumbup:

 

[Dave38]

I don't build but am working on my finish and have found that there is no reason to go any higher than 400grit sandpaper but for metal rings you need to go to about 1000grit sandpaper and polish to a high shine before adding finish otherwise you can see scratches in the rings but in the wood the sealer and clear coat will fill in any scratches :thumbup:

Problem is that a lot of finishes, or sealers won't 'grab' properly to the metal when sanded with that high of a grit. There are adhesion 'helpers' that can be applied, but not all work well depending on the finish used or the metals that need to be covered.
I've had my fun with that and now I just don't use metal rings in a cue...not worth the effort, IMO.
Dave

 

[cueman]

I only sand my sterling silver stitch rings to 320 grit. Any finer and you are asking for adhesion problems.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Bastard file.
3 coats of thin CA.
Sand the CA with red Scotchbrite.
Epoxy base coat .
Auto clear does not even touch that metal.

 

[HDR10]

Bastard file.
3 coats of thin CA.
Sand the CA with red Scotchbrite.
Epoxy base coat .
Auto clear does not even touch that metal.

pretty much same for me. I think I read this here in another thread a few years ago...works perfect for me...

 

[Canadian cue]

The reason I asked the question was I was having mixed results. I have some work that is several years old with no problems but not all. Silver and copper seem to be ok but brass is hit and miss. I appreciate the suggestions but I don't think leaving the metal rough is the answer. There are makers who do a lot of metalwork and they are not leaving it dull under the finish. Just look at Ernie's cues for example, all metal work is mirror like and he has been doing this long enough to know what works. There has to be a technique which gives repeatable results.