Finish idea.

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ok let it be known that I have few cues I have'nt yet mentioned in the past. Some are conversions that I was just holding on to. I have a guy I know that wants to buy one I just added a joint to, he may have talked me out of it, and another that I built/convertered. The other One I did some custom work on , so I actually turned it down, and added butt & joint work to it, but not in that order. It does however still need finish & the shaft matched. I've had the cue just hanging for a while now, he saw it, and you can guess the rest. he knows it's a early cue, and how tight I am about letting them out, so he's really after It. Anyway, here's the thing, he wants the cue in it's natural state, meaning He does'nt want a clear cote.
I'm wondering what is the best product to seal and do this kind of finish. Oils, french polish what have you? I know I can do a finish to satisfy him, and he would take the cue the way it is if I would let him, but what I'm wondering is what is going to protect the cue the most, without getting too far away from It's natural state? Shelac is not really what I'm looking for though.

Thanks, Greg C.
 
billiardbum said:
I have tried Gun Stock Oil, Tung Oil, French Polish. But I do several hand rubbed finishes for the "Hustlers" Local...This is what I love and they love. http://www.shophometrends.com/product.asp?pn=037065&bhcd2=1152049038 You can also get the Thompsons Wax at your local Home store, but if you try this stuff, you will never go back. You will not be disappointed, sometimes use it on shafts too.

Do you seal the cue first with epoxy? or is this all you apply after final sanding?
Kelly
 
Thanks For all the great info & input.

I have heard someone mention the ally wax before, but I've never had the pleasure of trying it. It certainly looks like It's priced right, so I may give It a shot. This guy Just liked the feel of the cue the way It was, so he requested no finish. good thing He caught be before I put one on It;) . This cue does have some double black linen In It, so I'm hoping that whatever I use, that It does not leave any white spots or anything unforseen in that material. Other then that the grain is filled, so not alot of pits or anything to worry about.

Anyway I do apprietiate it guys, & thanks Once again,

Greg C
 
I've got a can of Butcher's Wax and it seems to work great. I read somewhere that a certain cuemaker, let's call him "Gus", used to use such wax in his shop. I figure if it was good enough for him...... I've used it to polish/wax phenolic jump/break tips and it does a great job on them, so I would think your black linen butt materials will be fine. Please let us know what you end up using and how everything turns out.
 
Wax On A Cue?

billiardbum said:
I have tried Gun Stock Oil, Tung Oil, French Polish. But I do several hand rubbed finishes for the "Hustlers" Local...This is what I love and they love. http://www.shophometrends.com/product.asp?pn=037065&bhcd2=1152049038 You can also get the Thompsons Wax at your local Home store, but if you try this stuff, you will never go back. You will not be disappointed, sometimes use it on shafts too.

Donchayouknow that wax attracts dirt like a magnet. The dirt gets trapped in the wax and is impossible to remove.:eek:

Please don't put wax on your shafts for the same reason.

Good cuemaking,
 
Depends on how you apply it IMO

Arnot Wadsworth said:
Donchayouknow that wax attracts dirt like a magnet. The dirt gets trapped in the wax and is impossible to remove.:eek:

Please don't put wax on your shafts for the same reason.

Good cuemaking,

I Burnish the wax in each the butt and the shaft to where theres is no stickyness. I seal the shaft before this process happens, and I have never had one come back yet. Customers love it, but I prefer not to have my shafts that slick. Jim
 
I have really good results with taking a shaft to 0000 steel wool then work in sanding sealer until it's nice and toasty...work it into the ferrule aswell...it makes the shaft so smooth...after that let time do its thing...
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Craig Fales said:
I have really good results with taking a shaft to 0000 steel wool then work in sanding sealer until it's nice and toasty...work it into the ferrule aswell...it makes the shaft so smooth...after that let time do its thing...

One of the first things I learned about wood working was to never use steel wool on wood because the little particles of steel that imbed into the wood rust and turn brown and nasty.
 
Hmm...I never have had a problem with rusting steel wool particles....
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Using steel wool as part of finishing technique

Steel wool will show rust spots if a water-borne finish is applied directly over the
steel wood finished BARE WOOD surface. Usually the sealer is applied and then the steel wool is used. This keeps the steel wool from "sticking" in the grain.
Wiping the steel wool residue off with a good tack cloth eliminates the problem.

Personally I start any finish job off with several coats of gunstock oil sealer and filler and steel wool (0000) between coats. Never had a problem.

Bob Flynn
denalicues@comcast.net
 
I guess if its his, he should have it any way he wants it. Just make sure he knows there is no warranty without it being the way you want it.
If I asked for bare wood and got wax or oil or something i'd be pissed.

-Jay-
 
jayman said:
I guess if its his, he should have it any way he wants it. Just make sure he knows there is no warranty without it being the way you want it.
If I asked for bare wood and got wax or oil or something i'd be pissed.

-Jay-




I ended up talking him into letting me clear-cote, and It's turned out really well so far, but still needs a few cotes, and have some work on the shaft to finish everything up. On this paticular cue the clear really brought alot more out of it, so I'm happy so far. He also wanted it signed and it was a true 1of1, (believe me I'll never make another just like It :D ), the clear over It also sealed that in well, so it worked out for the best. Maybe I stated wrong, he did'nt want bare wood, but when he first saw the cue it only had sealer, and he said that was fine like it was, but it was really flat looking to me and far from finished. He's very happy with the way We went though, and can't wait to get It. He's a local, so It has been mostly hands on, and he's seen it each step of the way.

Thanks for all the sugestions everyone,

Greg C
 
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