Finish spots

opiesbro

opiesbro

Big Al Customs
Silver Member
Please help me get rid of these. Before I started I saw no bubbles or any imperfections. I started with epoxy base and then DC2000 auto clear. Then smoothed out with 320 wet, 600 wet, up to 2000 wet. Then buff with rough compound and finish buff. I just don't get what is causing these spots to come forward.

Thanks,

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If you're certain that they are not in your epoxy,
they could be urethane solids from your clear-coat.
That is sometimes the result of laying down too thick of a coat.
Wet-sand to open the surface sufficiently then wipe with Zylene.
Re-shoot and hope you get lucky.

HTHs, KJ
 
First thing get a water filter for your air line. If you already have a good water filter then you are putting it on too heavy and trapping air or solvent bubbles. It is either air, water or solvent bubbles that were trapped. I once took a break from finishing cues for a few months as that exact problem was putting me in such a bad mood.
 
One thought I had was the cue was too fast and it smeared the finish instead of cutting it???
 
I tend to think that Chris is correct. Try sanding this down really slow and see what
happens when you hit the spots. If it's trapped air you will be able to see the pits that the bubbles leave. I've trapped air before, but the bubbles were smaller.
 
Solvent pop caused by too thick a finish and the top finish dries and the finish underneath as it dries the solvent evaporates and has no where to go and causes tiny bubbles. I have had this problem when I find a spot that wants to fisheye and I spray more finish in that spot to get it to flow out. If I am not careful I get solvent pop. The real tiny bubbles you might see if you look real close but they really show up when they are sanded open and fill with finish residue that fills the holes.

I prefer several light coats and allow time to flash between coats. I check the cue for any problems or places where the finish is not filling in and spray some extra finish in these areas to fill in but I also do this slowly with light coats and let it flash. I also spray these areas while the cue is not spinning. When I am satisfied that there I have taken care of the problem areas I then flow out a medium coat and let it flash and then do another and stop.

When I wet sand I start with 1500 and then go to 2000 and last 2500.

Hope this helps.
 
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That could easily be solvent pop. Essentially, the second coat cures too fast and the solvents in the first gas and can't escape...causing spots.

What is your time between coats?
 
Dc 2000

Hey I just wanted to chime in alil first I don't work on cues but I am a painter and spray dc 2000 and 3000 everyday and they are both touchy clears you have to have clean air and flash times and mil thickness is very important or it will easily pop, don't get me wrong both very good clear but maybe you should try deltron dc 2021 with Dcx 61 hardner it's a very good clear a lot more user friendly and can withstand heavy coats sands and buff nicely and has more clarity and depth than dc 2000
If you have any questions involving clear coats or spraying feel free to pm me
 
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