There are far better compounds available, but here are 2 that I get acceptable results from when rubbing out Ca, and They are readily available at most auto parts stores. I use them after going all the way down through My various grit papers to bring the shine out.
The other Pictures of the cue are a little fuzzy, and the lighting is bad, so they look much better in person, but It gives the basic Idea of how well It polishes the stuff. This Player cue (not high dollar collectible cue) was done using a epoxy base, and a CA top cote.
The other pictures are of a make shift sanding block that I made from some aluminum angle for leveling out the bed of the finish. I lined up and stuck some adhesive backed lengths of thin weatherstripping that I had lying around from another project to the inside angle. It is wide enough that I can use the edges of It to get a grip on without getting My fingers into the cue, it also allows me to easily hold the paper in place while sanding.
I used 2 types, I started with a thin viscosity, then used a gel to build up several cotes of thickness, then follow with the thin over the top to help fill any low spots. I sand making sure that I don't sand through, If I still have valleys that's ok, I just clean well with acetone, let dry, then do some more cotes of Ca. After the second session I usually have enough to level the bed of the finish out, and have no valleys left. CA can be tricky to work with until You get the hang of it, but what I can tell You is that all CA is not the same, some work better then others for this, and are more durable then others as well. You just got to find what works best for ya. With that said, regardless of which side of the fence someone is on when it comes to using this stuff, The types that I use are not cost effective, and in the long haul, It is much cheaper per cue to use auto clear. For small projects Like JP's or pens maybe not as expensive to use.
