Finishing is a PAIN

R

Run the Century

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Anybody else had this same experience. I have been going the Epoxy then Super Glue method and done LOTS of research but I cant come close to getting the Auto Clear results some cuemakers get. Mine always comes out dull with what appears to be circular scrathes. And I do sand all the way up to 12,000 grit and buff. Given I do it as a hobby I was hoping to avoid building the spray booth and the expensive Dupont Chroma Clear clear coat but it appears there really isnt any way around it.

I would kill to see some of you guys finish cues. Anybody in the Fort Worth area?? Dinner is on me :-).
 
Run the Century said:
Anybody else had this same experience. I have been going the Epoxy then Super Glue method and done LOTS of research but I cant come close to getting the Auto Clear results some cuemakers get. Mine always comes out dull with what appears to be circular scrathes. And I do sand all the way up to 12,000 grit and buff. Given I do it as a hobby I was hoping to avoid building the spray booth and the expensive Dupont Chroma Clear clear coat but it appears there really isnt any way around it.

I would kill to see some of you guys finish cues. Anybody in the Fort Worth area?? Dinner is on me :-).
Click to expand...

I don't think there are really any substitutes for doing a nice sprayed finish. With the right equipment it is very easy and the results are rewarding. A spray outfit is an investment and worth getting. I am also a hobbyist but even as a hobbyist you need the right equipment to really have any fun or get anything out of it, otherwise it is just frustrating.
 
Hey Mac guy - I think your right on the money - my cues look great but in the end all is for not if you dont have a nice finish on it. Any recommendations as to spray systems. I have a compressor and a HUGE HVLP gun which I think I will have to replace and get something smaller. I am a hobbyist like you so any advice you have is appreciated friend.
 
I'm in the same boat as you....trying to get a good finish on a cue. I've built a few cues, but am still trying to get a good finish. I've got a Sata brand jam/touch-up gun, which is the one that several experienced cuemakers suggested. I'm using the PPG Omni automotive clear. I had a decent finish on a sneaky pete, but I ended up with solvent pop or small pinhole pits several places. It has long been sanded down and re-sealed with epoxy.

I've read a few places where guys say they spray 3 thicker coats, wait, spray 3 lighter coats, wait, then a few more light coats. Then after drying for several hours or overnight, they start their sanding processes. Thoughts?

My problem is that I've never used a spray gun before, so the technical side of the spray pattern, material volume vs. air volume, etc., is all new to me.

I realize much of spraying with a gun is subjective to the type of gun used, materials used, enviornmental conditions at the time of spraying, etc. If anyone could offer any information to the following questions, it would be greatly appreciated:

1. When you spray a cue, how many passes do you make to spray the entire cue? I've heard guys say they spray along the points, then in between them or other guys say they make a pass, turn the cue, make a pass, turn the cue, etc., until they make 6 passes to get all the way around the cue.

2. When you say "one coat", is this one pass with the gun or several lighter layers built up?

3. How much material do you use on a single cue? Say for example a sneaky pete where the entire forearm, handle area, and buttsleve are all finished. If you were going to apply the first 3 heavy to medium coats of a finish, how much material will you mix up/use?

4. How far away from the cue surface do you position the spray nozzle? I've heard some guys say 10-12 inches, others say 6 inches.

As was mentioned above, you can build the nicest cue in the world, but the finish will make or break it. I saw a cuebuilder at a state tournament last year that had several cues for sale, but the finish was totally awful. It looked as if he had sprayed them, then wrapped them in plastic as the surface of the finish was all wrinkled and uneven. Believe me, I'll go through gallons and gallons of finish to perfect my work before any cues leave my shop.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Mark
 
Run the Century said:
Anybody else had this same experience. I have been going the Epoxy then Super Glue method and done LOTS of research but I cant come close to getting the Auto Clear results some cuemakers get. Mine always comes out dull with what appears to be circular scrathes. And I do sand all the way up to 12,000 grit and buff. Given I do it as a hobby I was hoping to avoid building the spray booth and the expensive Dupont Chroma Clear clear coat but it appears there really isnt any way around it.

I would kill to see some of you guys finish cues. Anybody in the Fort Worth area?? Dinner is on me :-).
Click to expand...




Have you tried a rubbing compound yet? that usually brings it out alittle for me. I aggree it is a pain, and hardly worth the effort it seems. there are alot of variables between different ca brands also.
 
finishing is a pain

ragbug74 said:
I'm in the same boat as you....trying to get a good finish on a cue. I've built a few cues, but am still trying to get a good finish. I've got a Sata brand jam/touch-up gun, which is the one that several experienced cuemakers suggested. I'm using the PPG Omni automotive clear. I had a decent finish on a sneaky pete, but I ended up with solvent pop or small pinhole pits several places. It has long been sanded down and re-sealed with epoxy.

I've read a few places where guys say they spray 3 thicker coats, wait, spray 3 lighter coats, wait, then a few more light coats. Then after drying for several hours or overnight, they start their sanding processes. Thoughts?

My problem is that I've never used a spray gun before, so the technical side of the spray pattern, material volume vs. air volume, etc., is all new to me.

I realize much of spraying with a gun is subjective to the type of gun used, materials used, enviornmental conditions at the time of spraying, etc. If anyone could offer any information to the following questions, it would be greatly appreciated:

1. When you spray a cue, how many passes do you make to spray the entire cue? I've heard guys say they spray along the points, then in between them or other guys say they make a pass, turn the cue, make a pass, turn the cue, etc., until they make 6 passes to get all the way around the cue.

2. When you say "one coat", is this one pass with the gun or several lighter layers built up?

3. How much material do you use on a single cue? Say for example a sneaky pete where the entire forearm, handle area, and buttsleve are all finished. If you were going to apply the first 3 heavy to medium coats of a finish, how much material will you mix up/use?

4. How far away from the cue surface do you position the spray nozzle? I've heard some guys say 10-12 inches, others say 6 inches.

As was mentioned above, you can build the nicest cue in the world, but the finish will make or break it. I saw a cuebuilder at a state tournament last year that had several cues for sale, but the finish was totally awful. It looked as if he had sprayed them, then wrapped them in plastic as the surface of the finish was all wrinkled and uneven. Believe me, I'll go through gallons and gallons of finish to perfect my work before any cues leave my shop.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Mark
Click to expand...


I use a small touch up gun with 30 # of pressure. I use the DuPont Chromaclear HC-7600S. I spray my cues hanging & assembled. That way I know I'm getting the same coverage on both the shaft & butt. If I spray down,then up, I count that as 2 coats. I put a piece of masking tape 4" above the joint crack(just barely opened). That gives me a definite ending place on the shaft, where the clear stops. This is also where I hang my assembled cue from, using string & masking tape. I start with the joint area & spray from the tape down to a few inches past the joint. I spray everything in 3s. DOWN,UP,DOWN, that's 3 coats. I have my trademark "BLACK HEART" facing me at the begining of each spraying. That way I always know where to stop. After the joint area, I spray 3 coats from the joint to the begining of the handle. Think of the cue as having 4 points. Spray one point, then rotate the cue & spray in between the points, then the next point & so on. Then I spray the butt cap using the same system(don't forget the bottom). Finally I spray the handle area. This paint sets up, ready for the next spraying, in 2-5 minutes. Then I repeat the painting just as I did the 1st time. Wait 2-5 minutes & spray again. THAT'S 9 COATS. During the LAST 3 coats, you should look for areas that need a little extra paint, to FILL IN the grain lines. If your paint goes on too thick, you will get runs(which dry full of pin holes), or you will get thermal pops, that end up like small pin holes. With this paint you can sand in as little as 2-3 hours. I usually let it stand over night, but have put the finish coats on, sanded & rubbed it out to a mirror finish, after 3 hours. The next day I sand lightly with 400 grit, across the grain, with the lathe turning. Then I use 600, always ending up sanding ALL grades of paper AND each courseness of rubbing compound, WITH THE GRAIN. At this sanding I take off all, but about 3 coats. If you use a STAIN on your cue & sand through to bare wood, you can really run into trouble, because the wood is now SEALED & will not take any stain. I wipe the cue down JUST BEFORE each FIRST COAT, using mineral spirits. If you have the small WHITE pin holes, put your 1st coat OVER A WET COAT OF THINNEER. This will get rid of all of those WHITE pin holes. Use the same 9 coat system, being sure that all of the voids are filled. I sand with 600 till smooth. ONLY NOW CAN YOU WET SAND. Otherwise all of the little grain depressions will fill up with SANDING MUD. I usually have all voids filled (if not spray one more time) & finish wet sand with 1000 grit, then 1200 or 1500(make sure you have ALL of the sanding scratches smoothed out). Then I polish with Meguire's #1 then #5 & finally #9. I'll put my finish up against anybodys. I don't use wax on my cues. Instead I just wipe them down occationally, with "PLEDGE on a soft paper towel. HOPE I HELPED, A LITTLE...JER
 
finishing is a pain

BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I use a small touch up gun with 30 # of pressure. I use the DuPont Chromaclear HC-7600S. I spray my cues hanging & assembled. That way I know I'm getting the same coverage on both the shaft & butt. If I spray down,then up, I count that as 2 coats. I put a piece of masking tape 4" above the joint crack(just barely opened). That gives me a definite ending place on the shaft, where the clear stops. This is also where I hang my assembled cue from, using string & masking tape. I start with the joint area & spray from the tape down to a few inches past the joint. I spray everything in 3s. DOWN,UP,DOWN, that's 3 coats. I have my trademark "BLACK HEART" facing me at the begining of each spraying. That way I always know where to stop. After the joint area, I spray 3 coats from the joint to the begining of the handle. Think of the cue as having 4 points. Spray one point, then rotate the cue & spray in between the points, then the next point & so on. Then I spray the butt cap using the same system(don't forget the bottom). Finally I spray the handle area. This paint sets up, ready for the next spraying, in 2-5 minutes. Then I repeat the painting just as I did the 1st time. Wait 2-5 minutes & spray again. THAT'S 9 COATS. During the LAST 3 coats, you should look for areas that need a little extra paint, to FILL IN the grain lines. If your paint goes on too thick, you will get runs(which dry full of pin holes), or you will get thermal pops, that end up like small pin holes. With this paint you can sand in as little as 2-3 hours. I usually let it stand over night, but have put the finish coats on, sanded & rubbed it out to a mirror finish, after 3 hours. The next day I sand lightly with 400 grit, across the grain, with the lathe turning. Then I use 600, always ending up sanding ALL grades of paper AND each courseness of rubbing compound, WITH THE GRAIN. At this sanding I take off all, but about 3 coats. If you use a STAIN on your cue & sand through to bare wood, you can really run into trouble, because the wood is now SEALED & will not take any stain. I wipe the cue down JUST BEFORE each FIRST COAT, using mineral spirits. If you have the small WHITE pin holes, put your 1st coat OVER A WET COAT OF THINNEER. This will get rid of all of those WHITE pin holes. Use the same 9 coat system, being sure that all of the voids are filled. I sand with 600 till smooth. ONLY NOW CAN YOU WET SAND. Otherwise all of the little grain depressions will fill up with SANDING MUD. I usually have all voids filled (if not spray one more time) & finish wet sand with 1000 grit, then 1200 or 1500(make sure you have ALL of the sanding scratches smoothed out). Then I polish with Meguire's #1 then #5 & finally #9. I'll put my finish up against anybodys. I don't use wax on my cues. Instead I just wipe them down occationally, with "PLEDGE on a soft paper towel. HOPE I HELPED, A LITTLE...JER
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention that this clearcoat is 4 parts of paint & one part of actvator. For one cue I use 4 TABLESPOONS & 4 teaspoons of paint & then One TABLESPOON & one TEASPOON of activator. That useually is enough for 9 coats over the whole cue. I also transfer the paint from the gallon can, to a small sport drink bottle, that I can pore from. Buy the Activator in the smallest containers you can get, or seal the top or the screw top, of the can ,with a piece of masking tape,before putting on the screw lid...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I use a small touch up gun with 30 # of pressure. I use the DuPont Chromaclear HC-7600S. I spray my cues hanging & assembled. That way I know I'm getting the same coverage on both the shaft & butt. If I spray down,then up, I count that as 2 coats. I put a piece of masking tape 4" above the joint crack(just barely opened). That gives me a definite ending place on the shaft, where the clear stops. This is also where I hang my assembled cue from, using string & masking tape. I start with the joint area & spray from the tape down to a few inches past the joint. I spray everything in 3s. DOWN,UP,DOWN, that's 3 coats. I have my trademark "BLACK HEART" facing me at the begining of each spraying. That way I always know where to stop. After the joint area, I spray 3 coats from the joint to the begining of the handle. Think of the cue as having 4 points. Spray one point, then rotate the cue & spray in between the points, then the next point & so on. Then I spray the butt cap using the same system(don't forget the bottom). Finally I spray the handle area. This paint sets up, ready for the next spraying, in 2-5 minutes. Then I repeat the painting just as I did the 1st time. Wait 2-5 minutes & spray again. THAT'S 9 COATS. During the LAST 3 coats, you should look for areas that need a little extra paint, to FILL IN the grain lines. If your paint goes on too thick, you will get runs(which dry full of pin holes), or you will get thermal pops, that end up like small pin holes. With this paint you can sand in as little as 2-3 hours. I usually let it stand over night, but have put the finish coats on, sanded & rubbed it out to a mirror finish, after 3 hours. The next day I sand lightly with 400 grit, across the grain, with the lathe turning. Then I use 600, always ending up sanding ALL grades of paper AND each courseness of rubbing compound, WITH THE GRAIN. At this sanding I take off all, but about 3 coats. If you use a STAIN on your cue & sand through to bare wood, you can really run into trouble, because the wood is now SEALED & will not take any stain. I wipe the cue down JUST BEFORE each FIRST COAT, using mineral spirits. If you have the small WHITE pin holes, put your 1st coat OVER A WET COAT OF THINNEER. This will get rid of all of those WHITE pin holes. Use the same 9 coat system, being sure that all of the voids are filled. I sand with 600 till smooth. ONLY NOW CAN YOU WET SAND. Otherwise all of the little grain depressions will fill up with SANDING MUD. I usually have all voids filled (if not spray one more time) & finish wet sand with 1000 grit, then 1200 or 1500(make sure you have ALL of the sanding scratches smoothed out). Then I polish with Meguire's #1 then #5 & finally #9. I'll put my finish up against anybodys. I don't use wax on my cues. Instead I just wipe them down occationally, with "PLEDGE on a soft paper towel. HOPE I HELPED, A LITTLE...JER
Click to expand...

i think your gonna confuse alot of people with how your explaining what acoat is.

1 coat should = 1 wet spraying in between flash times.
 
Madison Bob

BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I use a small touch up gun with 30 # of pressure. I use the DuPont Chromaclear HC-7600S. I spray my cues hanging & assembled. That way I know I'm getting the same coverage on both the shaft & butt. If I spray down,then up, I count that as 2 coats. I put a piece of masking tape 4" above the joint crack(just barely opened). That gives me a definite ending place on the shaft, where the clear stops. This is also where I hang my assembled cue from, using string & masking tape. I start with the joint area & spray from the tape down to a few inches past the joint. I spray everything in 3s. DOWN,UP,DOWN, that's 3 coats. I have my trademark "BLACK HEART" facing me at the begining of each spraying. That way I always know where to stop. After the joint area, I spray 3 coats from the joint to the begining of the handle. Think of the cue as having 4 points. Spray one point, then rotate the cue & spray in between the points, then the next point & so on. Then I spray the butt cap using the same system(don't forget the bottom). Finally I spray the handle area. This paint sets up, ready for the next spraying, in 2-5 minutes. Then I repeat the painting just as I did the 1st time. Wait 2-5 minutes & spray again. THAT'S 9 COATS. During the LAST 3 coats, you should look for areas that need a little extra paint, to FILL IN the grain lines. If your paint goes on too thick, you will get runs(which dry full of pin holes), or you will get thermal pops, that end up like small pin holes. With this paint you can sand in as little as 2-3 hours. I usually let it stand over night, but have put the finish coats on, sanded & rubbed it out to a mirror finish, after 3 hours. The next day I sand lightly with 400 grit, across the grain, with the lathe turning. Then I use 600, always ending up sanding ALL grades of paper AND each courseness of rubbing compound, WITH THE GRAIN. At this sanding I take off all, but about 3 coats. If you use a STAIN on your cue & sand through to bare wood, you can really run into trouble, because the wood is now SEALED & will not take any stain. I wipe the cue down JUST BEFORE each FIRST COAT, using mineral spirits. If you have the small WHITE pin holes, put your 1st coat OVER A WET COAT OF THINNEER. This will get rid of all of those WHITE pin holes. Use the same 9 coat system, being sure that all of the voids are filled. I sand with 600 till smooth. ONLY NOW CAN YOU WET SAND. Otherwise all of the little grain depressions will fill up with SANDING MUD. I usually have all voids filled (if not spray one more time) & finish wet sand with 1000 grit, then 1200 or 1500(make sure you have ALL of the sanding scratches smoothed out). Then I polish with Meguire's #1 then #5 & finally #9. I'll put my finish up against anybodys. I don't use wax on my cues. Instead I just wipe them down occationally, with "PLEDGE on a soft paper towel. HOPE I HELPED, A LITTLE...JER
Click to expand...

JERRY I REMEMBER GOING THRU ALL THAT . but now 2 coats of a great sealer and 3 to 4 coats sanding between coats of uv curable finish no matter how pourse the wood is even wenge wood and i,am ready to wet sand and buff. it,s not my finish but the sealer that takes the work out of it.one thing with the finish thou is no pin holes and all that stuff that makes you have to spray 9 are 10 coats. THANK GOD FOR NEW PRODUCTS THAT WORK. MADISON BOB
 
I would get rid of that super glue, if you do the right homework, you don't need it, I wack all of my cues after first coats with a 2 inch rubber mallet to make sure the finish is bonded, Go help out in a auto shop for a week, free of course, You'll be amazed at what you learn about finish, I did!
 
finishing is a pain

bob griffin said:
JERRY I REMEMBER GOING THRU ALL THAT . but now 2 coats of a great sealer and 3 to 4 coats sanding between coats of uv curable finish no matter how pourse the wood is even wenge wood and i,am ready to wet sand and buff. it,s not my finish but the sealer that takes the work out of it.one thing with the finish thou is no pin holes and all that stuff that makes you have to spray 9 are 10 coats. THANK GOD FOR NEW PRODUCTS THAT WORK. MADISON BOB
Click to expand...


Hi Bob; I am trying to explain HOW I DO IT, for someone who has no idea of how to get started. I took a lot of time to go through each step that I DO. I spend about 15 - 20 minutes to spray 9 medium wet coats. I've talked to cuemakers who spend as much as a week finishing a cue. Your method seems good for you. How about going through each step to help these new cuemakers out...JER

P.S. In the body shop I worked in, we would say that I am spraying 3 MEDIUM WET COATS.
 
finishing is a pain

merylane said:
i think your gonna confuse alot of people with how your explaining what acoat is.

1 coat should = 1 wet spraying in between flash times.
Click to expand...

In the BODY SHOP that I worked in, they would say that DOWN, UP, & DOWN would be 3 MEDIUM WET COATS. I'm trying to help
someone here. I think that no mater what you might call it, if I tell you that I spray DOWN, UP & DOWN, then repeat this 3 times , it's pretty clear of what I'm doing. I'm only trying to help...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
In the BODY SHOP that I worked in, they would say that DOWN, UP, & DOWN would be 3 MEDIUM WET COATS. I'm trying to help
someone here. I think that no mater what you might call it, if I tell you that I spray DOWN, UP & DOWN, then repeat this 3 times , it's pretty clear of what I'm doing. I'm only trying to help...JER
Click to expand...


sorry just trying to help it be less confusing.

it sounds like in the BODY SHOP you worked in it would take several hundred "coats" ????
 
madison bob

BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Hi Bob; I am trying to explain HOW I DO IT, for someone who has no idea of how to get started. I took a lot of time to go through each step that I DO. I spend about 15 - 20 minutes to spray 9 medium wet coats. I've talked to cuemakers who spend as much as a week finishing a cue. Your method seems good for you. How about going through each step to help these new cuemakers out...JER

P.S. In the body shop I worked in, we would say that I am spraying 3 MEDIUM WET COATS.
Click to expand...

hi jerry: i now see what your saying thats my bad for not reading all of the post before i open my big mouth . (SORRY JERRY) this is my method. i sand the cue with 320 on the lathe with a block then slightly long ways canceling out any scratchs and blow off the cue with air.then i spray 2 light coats of sealer (axon insulatater A AND B) its 2 part mix. i let that set over night . the next morning take a green 3m pad scuff it up long ways and again clean and blow off the cue. then i spray 2 small coats of finish 1 up 1 back dry under uv light it takes 5 to 10 seconds to dry then i take it back to the lathe and sand with 320 on the lathe stop it and again sand long ways clean and blow off.i do this the same way again 2 more times only useing 320 paper. now the finish is applyed with no holes are nothing my finish covers so well its unbelievable. now i face off my joints to get rid of any roll over which is very little almost none at all and wet sand the cue with oderless mineral sprits because unlike water it does not have little particle in it that can scratch the finish also it as a lubricant in it so the cue does,nt get warm while sanding.i start with 1000 grit paper our finish is sprayed so smooth we we can get by with it . after each grit of paper we sand long ways of the cue to cancel machine scratchs and we go up to 2000 most of the time .we only use a block when first sanding with 1000 to level the finish out. now its off to the 10 inch flannel domet buffing wheels spinning at 2500 rpms we fill the wheels with merenza hard block med. buffing compond and move the cue back and forth long ways with the shaft installed on the cue untill it is shines like a babys but.when buffing we apply no force downwards we just let the cue ride on the wheels by its on wieght and it takes about 10 minute to bring the cue to a perfect shine with no scratchs at all.please remember the finish i use is 1 part so theres no flash time at all just spray up and back not having to wait for it to flash at all. (AGAIN SORRY JERRY) your method works great with car clear i done it the same way for years to but i sure love this uv curable stuff its great. i can finish serval cues in a day with it and never have to worry about shrinkage are solvent pop. but we don,t build that many cues.

MADISON BOB
 
Idea for saving Activator

If the activator goes bad when exposed to air - why not seal in a mason jar with a food vacuum sealer. Besides making cues I also like to cook - with the foodsavor vacuum made by Tilia - there is an attachment for sealing mason jars airtight - wouldnt this extend the life of activator?
 
Gentlemen,

Thanks so much for all your responses and information. Regarding the "freshness" of the activator, the PPG Omni product that I use says right on the label that you should use it within 14 days of opening. Does anyone know if this is a "hard" guideline, or can it be extended by sealing up the can? The plastic cap on mine seems to seal pretty tight, so I'm guessing it's keeping air out once it's sealed. It may be the fact that there is air in the container once it's opened that causes the clock to start ticking. I'm new to this stuff, so I'm just guessing.

Thanks!

Mark
 
bob griffin said:
hi jerry: i now see what your saying thats my bad for not reading all of the post before i open my big mouth . (SORRY JERRY) this is my method. i sand the cue with 320 on the lathe with a block then slightly long ways canceling out any scratchs and blow off the cue with air.then i spray 2 light coats of sealer (axon insulatater A AND B) its 2 part mix. i let that set over night . the next morning take a green 3m pad scuff it up long ways and again clean and blow off the cue. then i spray 2 small coats of finish 1 up 1 back dry under uv light it takes 5 to 10 seconds to dry then i take it back to the lathe and sand with 320 on the lathe stop it and again sand long ways clean and blow off.i do this the same way again 2 more times only useing 320 paper. now the finish is applyed with no holes are nothing my finish covers so well its unbelievable. now i face off my joints to get rid of any roll over which is very little almost none at all and wet sand the cue with oderless mineral sprits because unlike water it does not have little particle in it that can scratch the finish also it as a lubricant in it so the cue does,nt get warm while sanding.i start with 1000 grit paper our finish is sprayed so smooth we we can get by with it . after each grit of paper we sand long ways of the cue to cancel machine scratchs and we go up to 2000 most of the time .we only use a block when first sanding with 1000 to level the finish out. now its off to the 10 inch flannel domet buffing wheels spinning at 2500 rpms we fill the wheels with merenza hard block med. buffing compond and move the cue back and forth long ways with the shaft installed on the cue untill it is shines like a babys but.when buffing we apply no force downwards we just let the cue ride on the wheels by its on wieght and it takes about 10 minute to bring the cue to a perfect shine with no scratchs at all.please remember the finish i use is 1 part so theres no flash time at all just spray up and back not having to wait for it to flash at all. (AGAIN SORRY JERRY) your method works great with car clear i done it the same way for years to but i sure love this uv curable stuff its great. i can finish serval cues in a day with it and never have to worry about shrinkage are solvent pop. but we don,t build that many cues.

MADISON BOB
Click to expand...
Bob what size of nozzle do you guys use or does it matter a whole lot,im assuming if its bigger or smaller you can adjust the spray pattern.
 
ragbug74 said:
Gentlemen,

Thanks so much for all your responses and information. Regarding the "freshness" of the activator, the PPG Omni product that I use says right on the label that you should use it within 14 days of opening. Does anyone know if this is a "hard" guideline, or can it be extended by sealing up the can? The plastic cap on mine seems to seal pretty tight, so I'm guessing it's keeping air out once it's sealed. It may be the fact that there is air in the container once it's opened that causes the clock to start ticking. I'm new to this stuff, so I'm just guessing.

Thanks!

Mark
Click to expand...

Once you break the factory seal, that timeframe is a good guide line, the solid doesn't go bad just the hardner, Only buy 1/2 pints if it's available.
 
Madison Bob

almer said:
Bob what size of nozzle do you guys use or does it matter a whole lot,im assuming if its bigger or smaller you can adjust the spray pattern.
Click to expand...

i have never measured it but i use a small door jam gun that has fluid and air ajustsments on it you can get it down to nothing . a cup full will spray alot of coats . but please remember i use a uv curable clear that you have to have a uv light to dry it and as said it will dry in 5 to 10 seconds .but the sealer i use is the ticket and drys on it,s on no light needed and it works with car clear as well. MADISON BOB CUSTOM CUES
 
CA finish

Run the Century said:
Mine always comes out dull
Click to expand...
Mine used to be like this too, and I was becoming frustrated. I went out and got a tub of Mother's Buffing compound and it was the missing link. I went back and buffed all of my cues - added a coat of polish - and they all look great now. It's not a spray on clear coat finish, but it is a very nice CA finish.

My system: around 20 coats of CA (after the epoxy) and then wet sand 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 - this ends up with a semi-glossy finish. Then I buff with mother's. Polish, and you should be good to go.

Hope this helps...

-td
 
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