Fixed up another Gold Crown 2

realkingcobra said:
No problem:D and thank you for the complements, I do take pride in all my work, as I know others do as well. And trust me, most of the tables I come across today, are no different than the ones I started working on 25 years ago;)

Glen
Great details in the pictures and the narrative was exceptional
Awesome work - thanks for posting this thread.

Myron
 
Please pardon the idiot question...
How do you stretch the cloth using glue instead of staples?

Nice work, RKC. I really enjoy these threads.
 
longhair said:
Please pardon the idiot question...
How do you stretch the cloth using glue instead of staples?

Nice work, RKC. I really enjoy these threads.
I have a method of installing the cloth tight as hell because I premark the cloth as to how much I'm going to stretch it. I know how much Simonis and Championship will stretch on a 9 foot table already from experience, and I always stretch it to the max...LOL Greg Sullivan once accused me of turning Simonis 860 into 760 because I stretched it so tight:D ...I said, "what do you mean, it says 860 right there on the cloth...it didn't change;) "

Glen
 
How long does that glue take to set? I still don't get it. If this is a trade secret, feel free to not answer.
 
longhair said:
Please pardon the idiot question...
How do you stretch the cloth using glue instead of staples?

Nice work, RKC. I really enjoy these threads.
When Donny "SDBilliards" was helping me install the cloth on Brian's GC3, I had already stuck one side of the cloth and was working on the opposite side of the slates when I told him to go ahead and try stretching the cloth to the 5 1/2" stretch marks. I almost died laughing as I watched him stretching the cloth...his feet were sliding on the garage floor as he was trying to get traction enough to stretch the cloth:D

Glen
 
longhair said:
How long does that glue take to set? I still don't get it. If this is a trade secret, feel free to not answer.
It's not a trade secret, but it is a method unknown by most technicians around the world. That is one of the reasons for the DVDs when I finally get a chance to make them, shortly I hope. As far as set up time, lets put it this way, Pat...with Accu Stats has a video of me installing a bed cloth on a Diamond 9ft from the 2001 DCC. In that video from the time I had the cloth laid out and ready to start the gluing process, I was done installing the cloth 8 minutes 15 seconds:D but keep in mind, that was 7 years ago, I don't move that fast anymore:D

Glen
 
realkingcobra said:
It's not a trade secret, but it is a method unknown by most technicians around the world. That is one of the reasons for the DVDs when I finally get a chance to make them, shortly I hope. As far as set up time, lets put it this way, Pat...with Accu Stats has a video of me installing a bed cloth on a Diamond 9ft from the 2001 DCC. In that video from the time I had the cloth laid out and ready to start the gluing process, I was done installing the cloth 8 minutes 15 seconds:D but keep in mind, that was 7 years ago, I don't move that fast anymore:D

Glen
Wow, I get it now. Not much wiggle room though. Did you scrap much cloth learning to do this?

Also, do you only stretch side to side, or do you stretch lengthwise also? I wish I could apprentice as a mechanic with someone like you.
 
longhair said:
Wow, I get it now. Not much wiggle room though. Did you scrap much cloth learning to do this?

Also, do you only stretch side to side, or do you stretch lengthwise also? I wish I could apprentice as a mechanic with someone like you.
After I've installed the cloth with the max stretch from side to side, then I stretch it end to end as well. On the first end, I stretch it about 60% then on the opposite end, I stretch it the max. The cloth over all the bolt holes sounds like playing a drum it's so tight:D And no, I've never lost any cloth before from making a mistake installing it. You can always turn a 9ft bed cloth into a 7ft bed cloth:D :D :D

Glen
 
This is what I mean about the pocket miter cuts. In the picture you can see where the 53 degree miter cuts are vs the 51 degree miter cuts. When a ball is shot into the facing and cushion with medium speed, the facing and cushion compress, changing the deflection of the ball from going into the pocket, to crossing over to the other side pocket facing, which then spits out the ball. With the 51 degree miter cut pockets, they deflect further back into the pockets closer to the ledge of the pocket shelf having higher possiblity of pocketing the balls with the same shot being made.
 

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53 miter vs. 51 miter... It's a HUGE difference. My table before would spit balls out alot on well made shots. With Glens pocket change to a 51 miter, the pocket will take the ball at any speed. Much, much better...


Brian
 
realkingcobra said:
After I've installed the cloth with the max stretch from side to side, then I stretch it end to end as well. On the first end, I stretch it about 60% then on the opposite end, I stretch it the max. The cloth over all the bolt holes sounds like playing a drum it's so tight:D And no, I've never lost any cloth before from making a mistake installing it. You can always turn a 9ft bed cloth into a 7ft bed cloth:D :D :D

Glen

In our club we changed cloth on 6 tables. We started in the corner, stapling and then over to the other corner (on the same short side) stretching cross wise. Then we moved to the other end and stretched both length and side vise in that corner.
The rest was done by stretching the last corner and around the side pockets rails.

Doing so, we stretched pretty much as much as we managed to do... We where 2 persons stretching by pulling with a lot of force, the 3rd stapled.

The outcome of this was really tight cloth, but we noticed a that the amount of english (specially draw) was a lot less than the tables in another club.

The point I'm wondering about is that even if you get a fast table, we experienced less effect on english when we most like "overstretched" the cloth.

Any experience on this ?

N
 
Newton said:
In our club we changed cloth on 6 tables. We started in the corner, stapling and then over to the other corner (on the same short side) stretching cross wise. Then we moved to the other end and stretched both length and side vise in that corner.
The rest was done by stretching the last corner and around the side pockets rails.

Doing so, we stretched pretty much as much as we managed to do... We where 2 persons stretching by pulling with a lot of force, the 3rd stapled.

The outcome of this was really tight cloth, but we noticed a that the amount of english (specially draw) was a lot less than the tables in another club.

The point I'm wondering about is that even if you get a fast table, we experienced less effect on english when we most like "overstretched" the cloth.

Any experience on this ?

N
No, in all my years as a technician, I've never heard of getting "less" english on tightly stretched cloth:confused: But I have seen a difference in english from one pool room to another, because if different types of cloth used, different balls, dirty tables, worn out cloth...in other words, look for the differences between the rooms to make the determination of different effects of "english". As far as "over stretching" cloth, I've never see it:D

Glen
 
Very nice work, sorta reminds me of when you see before and after pics of rebuilt cars from the junkyard to the showroom.

I wish you operated out of South Florida. You would have definitely gotten work from me in the past 10 years.
 
uwate said:
Very nice work, sorta reminds me of when you see before and after pics of rebuilt cars from the junkyard to the showroom.

I wish you operated out of South Florida. You would have definitely gotten work from me in the past 10 years.
There's a reason why I post pictures of my work, and it's not for bragging rights as to how good I am, as quite a few people on here would assume;) I do it because if you, the end consumer has no idea as to the right way of tightening up the pockets on your table at home, then you're at the mercy of whom ever you call to do the work. Triple shimming pockets has been the accepted way of tightening pockets for so long it's a joke, as it's been the incorrect way of doing this kind of work since day one, but if no one points out the correct way of doing this kind of work...then how is anyone suppose to know the right way of doing it? So, my posts are more for information purposes as opposed to promoting work for myself, as I have all the work I can handle as it is, though I do try and help those in which I can, as long as it's in conjunction with delivering Diamond tables around the country:D

Glen
 
sdbilliards said:
Nice Work, Glen
Thank you Donny, as you've seen it first hand:D You're not to bad yourself there buddy, people all over Las Angeles should be calling on you to work on their tables all day long:D I know I'm refering any work I get requests for in your area to you that's for sure:D

Glen
 
realkingcobra said:
Naaa, I didn't do anything with the corners on Brian's table, that was something he had done already. I don't get into refinishing tables, just making them play better:D Both owners were kind of unsure of how tight the pockets were at first, but after pocketing balls...I think they both found out that they actually had less rejected balls, even though the pockets were tighter;) The angles of the corner pockets are very important when it comes to how a table plays. I guess if someone wanted compare these pockets to being shimmed...they could call them triple shimmed, even though I only use one thickness of shim per side in the pockets. When someone starts stacking up shims to tighten pockets up, all they're doing is causing the pockets to play dead. Triple shims absorb to much of the balls impact when they come into contact with the facings, causing the action of the balls to drop off into the pockets, instead of reacting like they're suppose to.

Glen

This is an issue where I play, several tables have pockets that rattle balls with a hardt sound (like it hit wood instead of rubber) if you hit the ball hard. Bit of a pain as you can't play shots normally, you always need to account for the rattle on hard hits.
 
hang-the-9 said:
This is an issue where I play, several tables have pockets that rattle balls with a hardt sound (like it hit wood instead of rubber) if you hit the ball hard. Bit of a pain as you can't play shots normally, you always need to account for the rattle on hard hits.
That's because the facing material used had dried out and turned cookie hard. Pinch the point of the cushions and you'll see what I mean. When pinching the point of the cushions, the facing shouldn't feel to much harder than the cushion rubber, if it is, it's way to hard and should be replaced with neoprene facings, as they won't turn hard as wood and crumble. If neoprene facing 3/16" thick are used, the cloth won't cut through in the corner pockets as well:D

Glen
 
You the man! For sure. How do you get the facings that smooth? Razor by hand after glue?

Really nice work, as always.
 
Fixer said:
You the man! For sure. How do you get the facings that smooth? Razor by hand after glue?

Really nice work, as always.
I use a Makita 1 1/8" belt-sander, if any Billiards Technician don't have one of these in their inventory of tools...then I don't consider them a real Professional at this trade:D

Glen
 
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