flush mount brass insert?

jkan101

jkan101

jkan101
Silver Member
A question...Has anyone ever flush mounted a Uni-Loc Brass insert in a shaft instead of counterboreing a hole for it? I was thinking of doing it and just wonder who has done it before and what the positives and the negatives where?

Thanks

Joe
 
I've seen it before. IIRC, it was a j/b joint made by a production cue maker. I don't see it having any kind of problems down the road.
 
uniloc

you will have to be cautious of how the pin is set,to allow the treads to grab.most unilocs have the treads of the pin sunk below the face of the joint.
 
Used to do it on my jump/breaks but found out that the insert has 7/16 x 20 tpi. With this kind of thread count they pull out as 20 TPI in wood for 6 threads just will not hold as the threads pull out. When you tap the tap eats half the threads out of wood being so fine. Uni-loc needs to change to 14 TPI to hold better. Bad engineering on their part.

I have replaced a bunch of Uni-loc inserts in all kinds of cues just for this reason. When you look at the old insert there is nothing but glue in the threads and no wood.

As far as mounting it flush it is not a problem, just be careful when you tap for insert.
 
Live tool the internal threads and you won't have this problem. I routinely attach my phenolic joint collars, butt sleeves, etc using a 36 tpi thread (!) and have never stripped a single one. Live tooling produces ultra-clean threads and the leverage you get when tightening down is incredible.

TW
 
Thomas Wayne said:
Live tool the internal threads and you won't have this problem. I routinely attach my phenolic joint collars, butt sleeves, etc using a 36 tpi thread (!) and have never stripped a single one. Live tooling produces ultra-clean threads and the leverage you get when tightening down is incredible.

TW
Click to expand...

Yes, if you are cutting threads, it is no problem. Now if you could only get the production cue people that are using the Uni-Loc system to do that I would not have to repair so many. Oh well gives me something to do.

Where can I get one of those cutters for my router to cut threads with? I have always thought about cutting my own threads but have never gotten around to it.
 
I have a bunch (carbide) so I haven't needed to buy them in over a decade. However, I bet you can find them by googling "thread milling tool", or doing the same search on eBay.

TW
 
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insert

Those who answered my question--Thank you......for those who went off on there own little thread within a thread no problem hope you got some info out of it..


Joe
 
Joe,

Please don't take offense but once you start a thread on a public forum,
it generally does take-on a life of it's own. It's not considered 'hi-jacking'.
It's basically about sharing more info than what your question/answer alone would provide.
If I were to state that I have access to about 4,000 Uni-QR inserts designed specifically
for flush mounting, now that would be hi-jacking. You see the difference?
When a thread takes a side-track it can yield much more than the answer to a single question.
You gain from the additional info and so do all the readers that come after you.
It's an opportunity for more to learn more. Let's not stifle the flow.
BTW, I do have access.

KJ
 
Wood taps work best with a negative cutting face , compared to engineering taps that work best with a positive cutting face.
Just make the cutting face negative and most of the tearing issues disappear.
Works for me.
 
Here's what I do; I bore the minor diameter and let the insert thread itself as opposed to using a tap. It compresses the wood fibers and I haven't had any issues. Just get the insert started and it will pull itself in. Now, this will not work if you are anchoring the insert into phenolic or the like.

I've been doing this for years.
 
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