For Sale: Affordable Lathe for Cue Shaft Tipping and Maintenance

[Axis_of_Evil]

I am making and selling a simple lathe driven by a (0 - 850 rpm) variable speed drill. This lathe is very sturdy and is made from 3/16" flat steel. The drill platform is adjustable and slides along dual rails, and has a lock down nut behind the drill. Included is a simple tool rest for rounding the tip's radius. A basic utility knife blade is used for shaving the sides of the tip and its radius. The following video (not mine, just one of many examples on YouTube) shows how to install and radius the tip using a lathe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl3rQ_hD5Q4

This lathe uses the same arbors and collets that are used on the larger professional lathes. Included with this unit is a universal rubber arbor that can be used instead of a collection of more expensive metal arbors. The picture shows a metal arbor in use and the rubber arbor on a shaft next to the lathe. Also included is a 13mm delrin collet for setup purposes. Additional delrin collets can be purchased separately for $4.95/ea from a source such as Atlas Billiard Supply in increments of .25mm from 10mm through 14mm.

Purchaser supplies a variable speed electric drill, additional collets and metal arbors as needed. A variable speed foot control (~$15 on eBay) or a variable speed router control box (~$25 on eBay) can be purchased to make lathe operation more convenient. Or, just a simple clamp can be used to adjust the drill's speed.

This lathe is easy to use and does an excellent job in tipping and cleaning shafts.

The price is $165.00 + $25.00 S/H flat fee via UPS (continental USA only).

Please send me a PM if you are interested in one of these.

Regards

 

[mmedford]

I like the concept; but it can use a few changes. I would personally like to see a motor and foot pedal setup added. Also some additional height between the shaft and baseboard.

Overall great concept.

 

[Axis_of_Evil]

I like the concept; but it can use a few changes. I would personally like to see a motor and foot pedal setup added. Also some additional height between the shaft and baseboard.

Overall great concept.

mmedford,

Thanks for the feedback. I looked for an appropriate DC motor and couldn't find any that I liked that were reasonably priced. A chuck would have to be added to a motor as well. The variable slow speed electric DC motor drill is a good fit for this class of lathe IMHO. Additionally, some folks may already have a workable drill.

I personally like the variable speed control box mentioned in the OP (I have both a foot control and a box). The box is rated at 15 amps... not sure about the foot control. I felt the purchaser could decide/customize this unit to his liking. I wanted to minimize the initial price as much as possible.

As for the height. The first one I made the cue shaft was 2" higher (more metal, more weight, more cost, etc). I've used both and like the lower profile better, you have a place to rest your hands while using a blade on the tip, and there's plenty of space under the shaft for cleaning. Additionally, you can always mount this unit on a 2" x 6" or 2" x 8" board to raise the end of the shaft that sticks out for tip maintenance.

Thanks again for the comments.

Regards

 

[takeitdown]

You can get what is called a "tattoo power source" off ebay for about 20 bucks that is smooth knob control from 0-16 volts with no clicks. Can get digital display on them to show voltage (speed). Hundreds of models in ebay.

 

[Axis_of_Evil]

You can get what is called a "tattoo power source" off ebay for about 20 bucks that is smooth knob control from 0-16 volts with no clicks. Can get digital display on them to show voltage (speed). Hundreds of models in ebay.

takeitdown,

It looks like these have output voltage in the 1.5-18V range ... this won't work, the drill needs 110V.

The ~$25 variable router control unit mention in the OP is an excellent solution.

Regards

 

[darmoose]

alternative

I like the concept; but it can use a few changes. I would personally like to see a motor and foot pedal setup added. Also some additional height between the shaft and baseboard.

Overall great concept.

I did something similar by mounting a vice on my workbench, then put the drill in the vice, and build a wood block with a hole in it to hold the tip end of the shaft. The wood block is held in place by a C clamp or wood clamp. The whole thing is completely portable and can be put in place in about 2 minutes.

 

[Axis_of_Evil]

to the top

 

[DeadStick]

I just received my lathe from Rob yesterday, and I'm a happy camper.

Set it up last night with a new Hitachi D13VF Drill ($99 at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005LEY6), a footswitch ($23 at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LJNJOE), and a router variable speed control ($29 at http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Variabl...er-for-AC-DC-Motor-up-to-15-Amp-/161288098624), and it's a pretty sweet rig. Finally, got a variety of plastic collets from Atlas (~$30 at https://www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?ITEM_ID=6196&DEPARTMENT_ID=291) - a 13mm collet is included.

The lathe is made of welded heavy-gauge steel and is very sturdy and heavy... no need to clamp it to the workbench or table even. The drill is mounted on a sliding track to easily adjust the length; a lot of thought went into the design. The tip-end bearing is industrial quality, not like the cheapo DIY lathes you can find on eBay, and the shaft turns arrow-straight (especially at the business end). Despite its weight, I like how compact it is – you can easily stand it up against the wall or in a corner when not in use.

Finally, an unexpected plus: included was a several-page long instructional document with pictures and very detailed tips. Rob did this first-class.

So, all in for around $371, and of course $100 of that is a bad-ass drill that can be used for other stuff by loosening two hose clamps.

I can see a lot of tip-testing in my future now. Thanks Rob! Hope you sell a ton of these.

-Ron <----------- not a professional cue repair guy, but now I can play one on tv

 

[gymratt37]

I would like one....gymratt37@gmail.com
803 225 3000

 

[TomHay]

Who makes the blade holder?????

 

[Axis_of_Evil]

Who makes the blade holder?????

That's not really a blade holder, it's a simple removable "tool rest" (lathe terminology). I've since updated the original post to make this more clear.

The Irwin utility blade is just sitting on the tool rest in the picture above.

After the sides of the tip are shaved down, this tool rest is attached to the lathe and used to provide a platform to round the tip radius with the blade.

The following video (not mine) shows how a tool rest and blade are used (see at 2:15); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl3rQ_hD5Q4

I make the tool rest and it comes as part of the lathe I sell.

Regards

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

lsthes

I just received my lathe from Rob yesterday, and I'm a happy camper.

Set it up last night with a new Hitachi D13VF Drill ($99 at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005LEY6), a footswitch ($23 at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LJNJOE), and a router variable speed control ($29 at http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Variabl...er-for-AC-DC-Motor-up-to-15-Amp-/161288098624), and it's a pretty sweet rig. Finally, got a variety of plastic collets from Atlas (~$30 at https://www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?ITEM_ID=6196&DEPARTMENT_ID=291) - a 13mm collet is included.

The lathe is made of welded heavy-gauge steel and is very sturdy and heavy... no need to clamp it to the workbench or table even. The drill is mounted on a sliding track to easily adjust the length; a lot of thought went into the design. The tip-end bearing is industrial quality, not like the cheapo DIY lathes you can find on eBay, and the shaft turns arrow-straight (especially at the business end). Despite its weight, I like how compact it is – you can easily stand it up against the wall or in a corner when not in use.

Finally, an unexpected plus: included was a several-page long instructional document with pictures and very detailed tips. Rob did this first-class.

So, all in for around $371, and of course $100 of that is a bad-ass drill that can be used for other stuff by loosening two hose clamps.

I can see a lot of tip-testing in my future now. Thanks Rob! Hope you sell a ton of these.

-Ron <----------- not a professional cue repair guy, but now I can play one on tv

I paid 500,00 for my first cue repair lathe and it came with all of the tooling need for different shafts.
And I can make shafts cut ferrule and do joint work re wrap cues.....

 

[SilverCue]

I paid 500,00 for my first cue repair lathe and it came with all of the tooling need for different shafts.
And I can make shafts cut ferrule and do joint work re wrap cues.....

Details?
New or used?
Can they still be had for a similar price?
Pictures?

Thanks
Al