Forearm square size

Double-Dave

Double-Dave

Developing cue-addict
Silver Member
Hi,

Quick question, would a 1 1/8 square work as a foream piece?
I have a lead on some very rare wood that I can only find in this thickness.
Obviously it's enough for point stock, but I want it as a forearm.

gr. Dave
 
I use a .840" diameter joint and with my taper profile the "A" joint diameter is around 1.01" so a 1.15" square could work for me as a forearm but I would prefer a 1.25" square.

As to your question ... YES ... cutting carefully it would work.
But be advised advertised wood measurements are not exact and will vary a bit.
If it is a tad larger ... no problem.
But if it is a bit smaller ... you might not get what you want.
 
Last edited:
Depends on how long you want the forearm. and what the butt major diameter youwant. 1.125 is cutting it close but it could be done.
Edit: 1-1/8 in the rough no it won't work if that 1-1/8 is sanded 2 sides it will be close.


John
 
If you build the cue properly and pay special attention to maintaining the concentricity of the 'A' jnt during the true-up pass and the tapering process, you should be fine.

A lot of builders like to start with 6/4 (1 1/2") stock even for the forearm, which to me, is a waste of good wood. We weren't given this wonderful mtrl to waste it. I seek 5/4 boards when they are available but if I have to buy 6/4, I re-saw the excess off and use it for inlays and windows and such.
Waste not, want not. :wink:
 
KJ Cues said:
If you build the cue properly and pay special attention to maintaining the concentricity of the 'A' jnt during the true-up pass and the tapering process, you should be fine.

A lot of builders like to start with 6/4 (1 1/2") stock even for the forearm, which to me, is a waste of good wood. We weren't given this wonderful mtrl to waste it. I seek 5/4 boards when they are available but if I have to buy 6/4, I re-saw the excess off and use it for inlays and windows and such.
Waste not, want not. :wink:
Click to expand...

What if the grain has some horrible runout and even though you're gonna core it, you'd like some consistent vertical pattern?
Also for dual/compound taper butts, the bottom of the forearm can be as large as 1.060-1.065, 1 1/8 doesn't leave much.
 
OK, let me think for a minute about what you're asking.
.....
OK, minute's up.
Your 1st question is pretty much of a loaded question in that there's a lot to it.

If I've selected a particular piece for a forearm, I've already determined that it has the grain structure that I'm looking for and it's all pointed in the right direction. A quick tap-test can make or break that decision in a heart beat. Say I've got a gnarly piece of whatever, no matter how it looks, if it has no tone, it won't make the first cut. Why bother? Sometimes pretty is just for pretty's sake. I know that I wouldn't be happy with the hit so why would I expect anyone else to be. Would coring this piece improve the hit? That's debatable. It's not a loss for me, I'd just use it elsewhere.

I'm a little confused with your question about coring & maintaining 'consistent vertical pattern'. Coring has no effect on the exterior patterns of the wood.

The dimensions at the 'A' joint are up to the builder and his particular taper(s). I happen to use a slight compound taper and depending on the cue I'm cutting, the 'A' jnt. dia. can vary btwn. 1.010 to 1.050". That still leaves .025 to .0575" per side to be removed. So yes, you need to be really focused on maintaining 'A' jnt. tenon concentricity, which you should be doing anyway but it most certainly can be done.

Have a GREAT evening.
 
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