Forward balance?

jed1894

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just curious about forward balance....would it be safe to say that cues like Joss, Schon and other cues that have a steel joint are forward balance cues?

I've been experimenting again and seem to like the steel joints over the 3/8 - 10 cues, which feel a little butt heavy to me.

JED
 
Balance

The type of joint should have little or nothing to do with the balance of the cue. The balance can be modified in a number of ways (wood choices, coring, internal weighting, etc.). The cues balance point is just the choice of the builder or customer before it's made.

Almost forgot.....IMHO.
 
Cues with steel joint collar have an advantage with regards to forward-weighting. That joint collar adds 1 1/4 oz that the phenolic jointed cues can't claim.

However, phenolic jnted. cues can very much be considered forward-weighted if they are built correctly with that end result in mind.

Not everyone likes a stl. jnted. cue but they want forward-weighting. This is very easily accomplished by a competent builder.
 
jed1894 said:
Just curious about forward balance....would it be safe to say that cues like Joss, Schon and other cues that have a steel joint are forward balance cues?

I've been experimenting again and seem to like the steel joints over the 3/8 - 10 cues, which feel a little butt heavy to me.

JED
Click to expand...

Joss and Schon usually have weight bolt in the rear. The heavier the butt heavy it gets.

Don't forget Meucci - non s/s joint too are butt heavy.

Even though butt heavy if the shafts are heavy, it will still play good, IMO.
 
Let me further explain......I'm comparing a Joss to a McDermott and Jacoby both of which have 3/8 - 10 pins. The Joss feels more evenly balance (for my taste at least) which feels better in my hands. The 3 cues are the same wgt (19 oz) and same tips, but the McDermott and Jacoby feel more butt heavy (or shaft light). This may all be in my head, but the Joss handles (without hitting anything) differently.

JED
 
i think mcdermott's are very shaft light. well at least the newer mcdermotts. i prefer the wood to wood and have 4 customs with flat faced wood to wood with either a 3/8's 10 or a radial pin and they do not feel butt heavy to me. just my 2 cents....
 
JoeyInCali said:
Joss shafts come with 13.25MM tip. They are thicker and heavier.
Click to expand...

The Joss I play with is 13mm. I forgot to mention that....all 3 cues mentioned above have 13mm shafts. You're right about the McDermott...the shaft does feel very light. The Jacoby is kind of in the middle...not as light as the McDermott, but more butt heavier than the Joss.

JED
 
jacoby generally has shafts that weigh about 4 oz.....i just bought a frey ebony sneaky pete and it is butt heavy....15.3 oz with no weight bolt, and not cored out either.....and the shaft weighed 4 oz......i am having a shaft made for it out of some old growth maple...should add half an ounce to even it out i hope....
 
jed1894 said:
Let me further explain......I'm comparing a Joss to a McDermott and Jacoby both of which have 3/8 - 10 pins. The Joss feels more evenly balance (for my taste at least) which feels better in my hands. The 3 cues are the same wgt (19 oz) and same tips, but the McDermott and Jacoby feel more butt heavy (or shaft light). This may all be in my head, but the Joss handles (without hitting anything) differently.

JED
Click to expand...

FOR 19oz cue:

Mc dermott
Butt : 15.4oz or more (maybe)

Joss
Butt : 14.8oz and maybe lighter.
(Don't forget Joss shaft have metal insert)
 
icem3n said:
FOR 19oz cue:

Mc dermott
Butt : 15.4oz or more (maybe)

Joss
Butt : 14.8oz and maybe lighter.
(Don't forget Joss shaft have metal insert)
Click to expand...

Got it. The metal insert you speaking of is the piloted pin, correct?

JED
 
morinj29 said:
that half an oz makes a big difference in the balance especially since joss uses 4oz shafts generally......
Click to expand...

You wouldn't think it would, but you are correct.

Thanks guys for all the replies on this issue.

JED
 
to further expand on your question, you really cannt and shouldnt make generalisations, because even from cue to cue from one maker or brand, you can and will encounter many different balances.

you should first start out with comparing what you have.

set a piece of chalk on a table or something and lay the cue fully assemled on it until it is perfectly balanced (neither tip or butt touching the table top). now measure from teh end of the but cap up to the middle of the chalk. that is going to roughly be your balance point.

i actually use 2 lengths of staples as they come packaged in the box that i wrapped a piece of scotch tape around to not damage the finish. it provides for a more acurate measurment as its thinner than chalk, some people use thier index finger, but its hard to mearure while holding a cue, but whatever works.

typically, for a 58" cue (29" shaft and 29" butt): 19" and up is considered forward balance, 18"-19" is nuetral and less than 18" is rear balanced.

for every 1oz added/removed to a side of the cue, it will move the balance point roughly 1". so if you have a 19oz cue with a balance of 19", and you add a 1 oz bolt in the butt, it should move the balance to 18" while increasing the weight to 20oz
 
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socks said:
typically, for a 58" cue (29" shaft and 29" butt): 19" and up is considered forward balance, 18"-19" is nuetral and less than 18" is rear balanced.

for every 1oz added/removed to a side of the cue, it will move the balance point roughly 1". so if you have a 19oz cue with a balance of 19", and you add a 1 oz bolt in the butt, it should move the balance to 18" while increasing the weight to 20oz
Click to expand...

Exactly. good post.
 
socks said:
to further expand on your question, you really cannt and shouldnt make generalisations, because even from cue to cue from one maker or brand, you can and will encounter many different balances.

you should first start out with comparing what you have.

set a piece of chalk on a table or something and lay the cue fully assemled on it until it is perfectly balanced (neither tip or butt touching the table top). now measure from teh end of the but cap up to the middle of the chalk. that is going to roughly be your balance point.

i actually use 2 lengths of staples as they come packaged in the box that i wrapped a piece of scotch tape around to not damage the finish. it provides for a more acurate measurment as its thinner than chalk, some people use thier index finger, but its hard to mearure while holding a cue, but whatever works.

typically, for a 58" cue (29" shaft and 29" butt): 19" and up is considered forward balance, 18"-19" is nuetral and less than 18" is rear balanced.

for every 1oz added/removed to a side of the cue, it will move the balance point roughly 1". so if you have a 19oz cue with a balance of 19", and you add a 1 oz bolt in the butt, it should move the balance to 18" while increasing the weight to 20oz
Click to expand...

I measured and found that the McDermott was 16 3/4 inches from the butt and the Joss was 19 3/4. Three inches...that's a big difference. No wonder they feel so much different. The Schon was about 19 1/4.

thanks, JED
 
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