Fraternal Twins

Those are sweet:) . Mike for those of us who are not cuemakers.....what's a recut?
Are there any problems that you know of (play,drying out,etc) with using exotic woods for joint collars? I really like that wood joint look.

Terry
 
Tbeaux said:
Those are sweet:) . Mike for those of us who are not cuemakers.....what's a recut?
Are there any problems that you know of (play,drying out,etc) with using exotic woods for joint collars? I really like that wood joint look.

Terry
Click to expand...

All of my joints are sleeved over phenolic. Very stable
A recut is when the first set of points are installed, The forearm is turned, reindexed and the next set are done, and so on. There are different ways of doing them but this is my way.
 
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Michael Webb said:
All of my joints are sleeved over phenolic. Very stable
A recut is when the first set of points are installed, The forearm is turned, reindexed and the next set are done, and so on. There are different ways of doing them but this is my way.
Click to expand...

I would like to add a few observations I've had, Mike, please correct me if this is not right.

The advantage of a re-cut is that conventional veneers are thin and weak. I am sure you've all seen veneers splinter away from cues. On a re-cut there are no miters and no thin veneers to break. You also cannot see any miter lines in the veneers, and Mike can get the points as perfect as his equipment and set-up allow while still getting the look of veneered points.

The disadvantage is it's more work and dust for the cue maker and it's technically difficult to execute - the re-cut pocket has to be perfectly aligned or the appearance of the border will not be consistent.

Chris
 
TATE said:
I would like to add a few observations I've had, Mike, please correct me if this is not right.

The advantage of a re-cut is that conventional veneers are thin and weak. I am sure you've all seen veneers splinter away from cues. On a re-cut there are no miters and no thin veneers to break. You also cannot see any miter lines in the veneers, and Mike can get the points as perfect as his equipment and set-up allow while still getting the look of veneered points.

The disadvantage is it's more work and dust for the cue maker and it's technically difficult to execute - the re-cut pocket has to be perfectly aligned or the appearance of the border will not be consistent.

Chris
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All true except the thin and weak part, If the right method is used all are strong, I do the recuts because their are so many new cue makers and everyone is doing veneers, I just want to offer something different to my customers.
 
TATE said:
The disadvantage is it's more work and dust for the cue maker and it's technically difficult to execute - the re-cut pocket has to be perfectly aligned or the appearance of the border will not be consistent.

Chris
Click to expand...
Also,
sounds wasteful which means more expensive. Yes?
Does the one on the right have an owner?
I Love Snakewood.
 
misterpoole said:
Also,
sounds wasteful which means more expensive. Yes?
Does the one on the right have an owner?
I Love Snakewood.
Click to expand...

Not at all, Neither I nor my dealers have done anything to the prices, There is a bigger picture to look at.
CREDIBILITY, PLAYABILITY, TRUST, FUTURE.
I love building cues and I hope it shows in the way they play.
The cue on the right is going to Troy at
http://www.onthehill.com
Troy is a great guy who takes very good care of people.
 
TATE said:
conventional veneers are thin and weak
Click to expand...
I don't think this is true. Because the veneers are separate in making the v connection, there is no stress induced at that point. By paying attention to cross graining, the veneers should provide tremendous strength.

Fred <~~~ strictly from an engineering pov (plus I peaked into Burton's brain)
 
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Nice

Mike,
Very nice points. You must have very precise machinery. if you don't mind me asking what do you use to cut your points? I just started making cues this year and i bought a deluxe cue smith lathe to start out with. when cutting points i use a spur driver and off set the tail stock. When the spur is on the back side of the lathe it digs in deep creating a deep hole, then when i cut the opposite point the spur is floppin around in the hole i just created. Is there a better way to do it with the lathe i have.
Thanks,
Owen
 
newo9277 said:
Mike,
Very nice points. You must have very precise machinery. if you don't mind me asking what do you use to cut your points? I just started making cues this year and i bought a deluxe cue smith lathe to start out with. when cutting points i use a spur driver and off set the tail stock. When the spur is on the back side of the lathe it digs in deep creating a deep hole, then when i cut the opposite point the spur is floppin around in the hole i just created. Is there a better way to do it with the lathe i have.
Thanks,
Owen
Click to expand...

Hi Owen
I use a router and a lathe,

Cornerman
hmmmmmmm!
 
Mike,
Do you use a spur driver to hold the forearm and off set the tail stock, or is there a better way?
Thanks,
Owen
 
Some people use a taper bar set for the point angle.
And either have an indexing head that sits on the bed, or some way of indexing the chuck accurately.
 
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