Full cue jumps

ChopStick

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I did a search for this term and I did not find much discussion of this. Years ago it used to be common. Jump with draw or follow. Even Bob Meucci could do it. I never worked on it. The way it has been explained to me is that it was easier to do it back then because of the cloth. Cloth like Simonis was more difficult to jump on. I don't know.

I became proficient with the short jump cue and shaft jumping. I was playing with a Predator cue then and could not get that thing to jump at all. I could jump half a ball with my break cue. When I changed to a Predator3 cue it has a stiffer shaft and can jump some. Lately I have been thinking that a hard tip and a stiffer shaft make it easier to do full cue jumping.
 
Heavy cloth for sure is easier to jump on.
On British snooker cloth, the balls are more air-born on any hard hit.
Any cue that hits 'sweet' is harder to jump with also.
Tight cloth makes it harder to jump....some of that old Mali 821 with directional nap
that was loosening with age and humidity could send whitey into the light-shades.
 
I never knew what brand it was. It had a nap to it that you always installed and brushed head to foot. It had a white backing cloth layer to it. When it was new it would fuzz up for a couple of weeks. After that got brushed out it would play normal.

Since there is a call to ban jump cues every other week, I was wondering if anyone had accumulated some information about how to do full cue jumps. I saw SVB do it in a match, I forget against whom, that brought back some memories. It was a full ball jump and he drew the cue ball back to where he was.
 
I never knew what brand it was. It had a nap to it that you always installed and brushed head to foot. It had a white backing cloth layer to it. When it was new it would fuzz up for a couple of weeks. After that got brushed out it would play normal.

Since there is a call to ban jump cues every other week, I was wondering if anyone had accumulated some information about how to do full cue jumps. I saw SVB do it in a match, I forget against whom, that brought back some memories. It was a full ball jump and he drew the cue ball back to where he was.

The backed cloth was mostly Stephens, I think.....
..Mali was single-layered.
 
I never knew what brand it was. It had a nap to it that you always installed and brushed head to foot. It had a white backing cloth layer to it. When it was new it would fuzz up for a couple of weeks. After that got brushed out it would play normal.

Since there is a call to ban jump cues every other week, I was wondering if anyone had accumulated some information about how to do full cue jumps. I saw SVB do it in a match, I forget against whom, that brought back some memories. It was a full ball jump and he drew the cue ball back to where he was.

I think that was the finals against Alex P. he was on the 4 ball getting shapes on the 5, at the DCC.
 
I assume you are discussing full cue jumps with a playing cue.
I don't have the stroke to do that but see it occasionally. I do, however, jump full cue with my Brick dymondwood jump/break cue. I seldom break it down and don't jump as well when I do. I clear a full ball easily and have decent control with the full cue.
 
A stiff cue definitely helps but it will never jump like a jumper. When the cloth changed jump cues' popularity took off.
 
Plus a lot of people are using LD shafts now for their playing cue and that makes it exponentially more difficult to jump full cue. I think jumping full cue is something that you practice, I remember just spending like a week working on jumping full cue, now I have no problem, however unless its half ball jump i rarely try to jump with my Z2 shaft. I usually use my break cue to jump full cue. The harder the tip, stiffer the shaft and lighter the cue the easier it is to jump full cue.
 
Yes i was talking about jumping with my playing cue. Way back when I used to play APA, they banned jumps for everything but your playing cue. You could not use your break cue.

It sounds like you guys have had experiences similar to mine. It's good to know it wasn't just me. Whenever I get back to playing again, I will make an effort to work on jumping. I have pretty much decided to move to a hard tip. I have been playing medium forever.

If anyone has any information about doing it, I would love to hear it.
 
I jump with my playing cue for longer jumps. Anything closer than 2 ft and I'm using my jump cue or kicking at it.
 
A couple of observations about jumping with your playing cue with draw:

1. Proper form dictates that you keep your feet flat on the ground and maintain your normal upper-body/grip-arm stance. For jumps, this means you have to choke up on the grip, bend your bridge elbow, and get your face closer to the CB. If your cue is bottom heavy, it becomes hard to keep it from wanting to "fall" backwards, in other words, the part of the butt behind your grip starts to weigh more than the rest of the cue in front of your grip. This can limit the effective vertical angle that your cue can tilt before the overall balance point moves behind your grip, causing the cue to tilt up.

2. Because of friction between the bottom of the CB and the cloth, a center hit on the CB (on the equator as seen from the cue angle) will cause it to actually pick up some follow as it contacts/leaves the table surface. So you'd need about a half tip of "low" to accomplish a normal stop/stun jump shot. To get draw on a jumped CB, you need to hit way below the "equator" (again, as seen by the cue's vertical angle).

3. Just like with the break, the energy you transfer to the CB can only be converted I to two things, spin energy and translational energy (barring friction-related heat, etc). If you spin the ball, it will not jump as high, regardless of the type of spin. So if we're drawing, we need to hit the jump shot much harder than normal to achieve the same amount of resultant spin.

4. Low deflection shafts CAN jump, but when you're hitting low on the CB, LD's tend to miscue slightly. This is not the same as the classic bar banger miscue jump. It's just that the shaft is "willing" to get out of the way, so there is less force available to keep the cue tip engaged with the CB surface. A CB jumped in this manner will still have some Backspin, but not as much as a regular draw shot with the same below-center hit.

5. As the CB bounces on the cloth, it tends to pick up forward spin (or reduce backspin) more than a normal shot. This means you have to put a lot more backspin on the ball than a level shot for a given amount of draw, especially if the OB is a little far away.

Overall, I would say IT CAN BE DONE, but you have to really exaggerate the speed and tip placement to effectively jump-draw a CB with a LD shaft.

Just my observations.

Good luck!

-Blake
 
The full cue jump draw three rails was shane van boening against niels feijen in the derby city 9ball
 
It's not all that hard, but it's usually a lower trajectory with a little less elevation than you'd use with a jump cue, so you need some room...getting a nice high hop when you're close to the interfering ball requires one heck of a stroke, thus the jump cue is pretty much required...unless you're Earl Strickland. It works a lot better on dirty cloth/old balls; I wouldn't try it on new cloth/clean cueball, not enough friction, it's really hard to get air with a full cue.
 
As people have mentioned already, there are a number of factors that make jumping with a playing cue harder: softer tip, low deflection or whippy shafts, thinner cloth, etc. In my experience, there are just some cues and conditions that make jumping nearly impossible.

For example, I can jump a full ball with my jump cue from a ball away pretty easily. With my break cue, I can jump a full ball from from about 2 balls away with a high degree of confidence. With my playing cue, I am not likely to jump a full ball from any distance and will only attempt to jump over about half a ball.

I've actually tried a jump/break cue that just wouldn't jump, even broken down. It was like the cue and tip just gave way and you ended up with the CB sliding across the table every time. I let a few other players that I know jump well try it out and the same thing happened to them.

Anyhow, my point is that you shouldn't be disappointed if you have trouble jumping with your playing cue. If you think it's important enough, I suppose you could find a cue that jumps well and learn to play with it...
 
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