Full-, Half-, Shorsplice - PLEASE HELP !

I'm going to answer this in reverse...



The spiced forearm is stronger than a solid piece of wood. It's the same as plywood. You laminate a bunch of sheets together and though it's still just a chunk of wood, now it stronger because the lamination.

In Spain's book, he talks about putting blanks across and old car rim and standing on them. Try that with a straight piece of wood. *POP*



I'm about to stir the stuff, sorry. As a note, I like full splices. I have much respect for those guys building them today. My current playing cue is a full splice. With that said....

I hear a few people talk very highly of full splices. Honestly, to the point they are almost saying half splices are worthless. Which is complete nonsense. I have yet to see one single scientific test showing that full splices do in fact play better. I'm not saying there is no difference. The buzz issue is one case where the full splice is better. You still don't see the pro's beating down custom cuemaker doors demanding their full splices. Plenty of people are playing top level pool without a full splice.

Here is the test I propose. You build two butts EXACTLY the same. Same veneer colors, same woods, same joint style. The only difference is one is half spliced and one is full spliced. You then put wraps on the cues covering the base of splice so now both cues are look EXACTLY alike. Finally build ONE shaft that can be swapped between the two butts.

Now you have isolated EVERYTHING in the cue except for the splice construction.

Finally, pass them out to good players. Tons of good players. Also, pass it out to these full splice gurus. Let them use the cues and guess as to which is which.

Tabulate the numbers and see if in fact that full splice are better.

I've got $100 that says no one will be able to tell the difference.

matta

I agree with you 100%.

Most of the pro's play with short splice cues and have for many years.

I am not sure the truth matters because there are so many un-cuemakers expressing their lack of knowledge that it would take all of my time and yours to try to overcome the incorrect information that is spread so thick these days.
 
Wow !!

Hey Guys !

I am realy happy that a stupid Austrian guy with bad english brought so many people together to speak about that. :thumbup:
It´s realy great for me to read all your post and thinkings about that, and one thing i have to say would be.
If cuemakers in the old days have done the full splice for stability, i think a completely cored cue (new days) will bring the same stability, or not ?

But the one thing i would realy be intersted in, would be Burton Spains Book !
Where can i get that ? Would anybody of you sell me one ?

And last but not least i am realy happy that our discussion about that helped somebody on the decision which cue he will order :thumbup:
That is one of the reasons why i realy love to talk about all these things !

Thank you all again and
best regards,
Erich
 
Hey Guys !

I am realy happy that a stupid Austrian guy with bad english brought so many people together to speak about that. :thumbup:
It´s realy great for me to read all your post and thinkings about that, and one thing i have to say would be.
If cuemakers in the old days have done the full splice for stability, i think a completely cored cue (new days) will bring the same stability, or not ?

But the one thing i would realy be intersted in, would be Burton Spains Book !
Where can i get that ? Would anybody of you sell me one ?

And last but not least i am realy happy that our discussion about that helped somebody on the decision which cue he will order :thumbup:
That is one of the reasons why i realy love to talk about all these things !

Thank you all again and
best regards,
Erich

Send your address to my email.
 
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Edit:
Density of G10: 0.065
Density of Maple: 0.62–0.75

Isn't that correct, using a G10 pin would be like not using one at all as far as weight is concerned?

matta

WOW! Is that info right? G10 is 1/10th the density of maple? Seems very light to me. I had no idea they were that light!

I have these 'average' specific gravities to throw in the mix:
(woods)
Maple, dry 0.71 (in line with what you have)
White ash, dry 0.67
Black ash, dry 0.54
black walnut, dry 0.61
hickory, dry 0.85
cherry, dry 0.56
Apple, dry: 0.71

(Other cue materials)
ivory 1.84
Brass 8.56
Aluminum 2.64
nickel 8.67 (Close to most stainless varieties)
leather 0.95
nickel silver 8.45
silver 10.46

(Adhesives- note epoxies are all over the map now)
hide glue 0.56
epoxy 1.26

(other woods not typical in cues)
cypress 0.51
elm 0.56
douglas fir 0.53
hemlock, dry 0.40
Yellow Birch 0.71
white pine, dry 0.42
northern yellow pine, dry 0.54
california redwood, dry 0.45
california spruce, dry 0.45
 
WOW! Is that info right? G10 is 1/10th the density of maple? Seems very light to me. I had no idea they were that light!

Check out how slick I am! I misread my own numbers. Haha.

I didn't realize G10 was that light either.

Thanks,
matta
 
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