Full-Size Light vs. skinny light

[Cuebacca]

I was in Reno last week and experienced the awesome Diamond Smart-Tables. I really enjoyed the playing conditions.

I noticed that they used the Diamond 9' Tournament Style Light (26" X 102" X 8") as apposed to the 9' Full Size Light (51" X 102" X 8").

I didn't notice any problems with illumination from the skinny light, but it got me to thinking. Why make a full-sized light if the tournament style light does the trick? Will there be some subtle shadowing near the long rails that I just didn't notice?

I'm working on getting my home table ready, and I'm in the process of trying to figure out what type of lighting to go with. Does anyone have an opinion to share on skinny lights vs. full size?

Thanks,
Cuebacca

 

[Black Cat 5791]

I have the Tournament Model, I haven't had any issues what so ever. When I was getting the table I asked about the difference and I was told that illumination wise the differences were minimal though some, but primarily if I tend to shoot more masse's and jump shots I would appreciate the T- model because there's no inteterference from the light on the long rail as the Full size model is the full width of the table.

Hope this helps your decision.

Black Cat

 

[Chris]

Full size light vs. skinny light?

I think it all depends on whether you prefer an oxymoron or a redundancy.

 

[AuntyDan]

Full size light vs. skinny light?

I think it all depends on whether you prefer an oxymoron or a redundancy.

Perhaps it depends on the amount of ambient light in the room which will work best? It may also depend on how high above the table you can mount the light based on the room/ceiling layout.

 

[bells]

hey aunty dan lets see a pic of that capone cue you have.............................................please

 

[Cuebacca]

Hmm, I hate tradeoffs

I have the Tournament Model, I haven't had any issues what so ever. When I was getting the table I asked about the difference and I was told that illumination wise the differences were minimal though some, but primarily if I tend to shoot more masse's and jump shots I would appreciate the T- model because there's no inteterference from the light on the long rail as the Full size model is the full width of the table.

Hope this helps your decision.

Black Cat

Thanks, Black Cat. I figured there had to be some sort of illumination difference, but minimal was the word I was hoping for. I don't shoot masse's often, but with a table at home, I'm bound to want to practice them at some point.

So I was leaning towards a fatty light, but now I'm thinking the lite light might be the way to go...

Perhaps it depends on the amount of ambient light in the room which will work best? It may also depend on how high above the table you can mount the light based on the room/ceiling layout.

It will be in a garage, so I can mount it pretty high if necessary. It looks like Diamond recommends a height of 78" above the floor, which amounts to about 4' above the playing surface. I would expect the smaller light to be more sensitive to deviations from the optimal height. Maybe if I end up with a larger light I can afford to hoist it up out of the way of my fancy new masse skills.

 

[Tablemechanic]

Lights

I really like the narrower lights. I have been working on designing a light for awhile. Diamond has a great light and when they made the narrower one they just made it better. It has the same light fixtures in it as the big one, two double 8' fixtures.

For most of the people that I set up tables for in garages I suggest a fixture that Home Depot sales. It is an 8' fluorescent fixture with a deflector on top. It is all white and runs about $50.00. I like to hang the light about 4' above the table. Also make sure that yhou get the natural light bulbs, the soft white bulbs was out all the color and make everything look yellow.

Steve

 

[Black Cat 5791]

When I hung my light I just Put it at the height that looked and felt right. My table is in my unfinished basement so there isn't any ambient light around, which if it were it would only help if there were any shadow issues.

The Tournament Model will serve you fine, I can't imagine how much more light would be needed. I've had friends comment that they think it's too bright, figure that.

I'll post some pictures.

Black Cat

 

[Cuebacca]

Thanks for the input guys. Its good to know that the T-style light works well without other ambient light. I'll definitely want to use my table that way sometimes.

So both Diamond lights have the same fixtures.. four 8' bulbs. That would be 2 fixtures with 2 bulbs each, I'm assuming? I wonder how the lighting would be from a full size light with 3 fixtures of 2 bulbs each.

With that type of light, would the lighting be adequate from a height of 6' above the playing surface? If so, that might be an interesting light because it could minimize both shadows and interference to elevated cues.

Has anyone tried out something like that? Would the light disperse too much from that height, or could the additional light from the 2 extra bulbs make up for that?

 

[Black Cat 5791]

Actually, there are 8 four foot bulbs. I'm not sure, where the other info came from. Call Diamond direct the other information may be from an older unit or something. The smaller lights are more readly available, and easier to handle when changing out etc.

Black Cat

 

[Cuebacca]

Actually, there are 8 four foot bulbs. I'm not sure, where the other info came from.

Sorry about that. The other stuff was just my idea. You see, I don't have a Diamond table, I have a Gold Crown, so unfortunately I won't likely buy an actual Diamond light. I was admiring the Diamond but it won't match my table, and the GC light is way out of my price range, so I'll probably be designing my own light or having someone design/build it for me. (Then I'll stain it with the same stuff I'm doing my GC with. )

So since I need a custom light anyway, I was just pondering the idea of adding additional bulbs (for a total of twelve 4-foots or six 8-foots) in a full-size frame strung to a height higher than normal. I don't know if that's a harebrained scheme or not.

Of course, if the table ever ended up in a standard room with 96" ceiling, then the light couldn't be hung that high. Just wondering if it had potential in garage- or vaulted-ceiling-type scenario.

Or perhaps I should just simply things and go for a half-width light. I doubt I'd be disappointed with that.

 

[3kushn]

For me the more light the better. I hate shadows. Use 8' bulbs, they can be brighter than the 4' ones depending on what your select. Use diffusers and if possible (or needed) install peripheral lights. These don't need to be real strong but will help eliminate/reduce shadows. Put them on dimmers and you can adjust to your liking.

If you have a chance go to Denver and see Jerry Karsh's - Shakpheres All SAM Steel tables with full size lights hung high enough to shoot a masse with a Snooker Cue.

 

[BRKNRUN]

This may not sound right, but a home light that is too good may not be good in the long run

If you get used to your home table with great lighting, then go to a room that does not have very good lighting is hard to adjust.

I have fllourescent at my house, and when I play on tables the have the three normal bulb set up, It takes me a little while to adjust.

 

[AuntyDan]

This may not sound right, but a home light that is too good may not be good in the long run

If you get used to your home table with great lighting, then go to a room that does not have very good lighting is hard to adjust.

I have fllourescent at my house, and when I play on tables the have the three normal bulb set up, It takes me a little while to adjust.

FWIW here's a photo my home-made Franekenlight. It's probably over-kill, having two 4'x2' 4-bulb flourescent fittings in it. I do have wired it so I can turn on only 4 tubes at a time if I want to. However as I play mostly at home these days so I'd rather have the best light there and adjust elsewhere than deliberately setup a poor lighting condition to match a Pool Hall. If I can play really well in perfect conditions, then I'm more confident when I have to adjust down.

 

[Hambone]

Here is my 9 ft Diamond Pro with the full size light. Plenty of light no shadows on the table and looks good too.

 

[Cuebacca]

Many thanks for posting those -- that's a lot of light! If you start to feel guilty about staying inside all summer playing pool, it looks like you could just take off your shirt and get a nice tan right there while you shoot. Seriously though, those are both very nice setups.

If anyone out there has another type of table light you'd care to share, I'd sure enjoy seeing a pic of that too. Particularly, it would be nice to see pics of the Tournament-style Diamond Light, the Gold Crown IV Light, (other brand-name lights I'm forgetting), or any other home-made / custom lights out there.

 

[AuntyDan]

Many thanks for posting those -- that's a lot of light! If you start to feel guilty about staying inside all summer playing pool, it looks like you could just take off your shirt and get a nice tan right there while you shoot...QUOTE]

Heh, that's a good idea. I could swap out half the regular flourescents for UV tubes. Heck we could start up a national chain of combination Tanning and Pool Parlors! Not only could it make a ton of money but it will finally be a way to encourage hot women in bikinis to play Pool ;-)

 

[Cuebacca]

Heh, that's a good idea. I could swap out half the regular flourescents for UV tubes. Heck we could start up a national chain of combination Tanning and Pool Parlors! Not only could it make a ton of money but it will finally be a way to encourage hot women in bikinis to play Pool ;-)

Brilliant!!